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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I just got a 1994/5 rav4 3 door import I think it is.It has done 118,000 mile and went through an MOT a month ago with NO advisory's.
I bought it as a spares/repair vehicle as it was misfiring.I fixed that,I changed all the crappy plugs.Now it runs like a sewing machine,lots of power but also lots of oily smoke.
I am still hoping that it has too much oil in it but that is a long shot really.Some one has had the rocker cover off it recently but not the head it would seem.
The radiator is still full but with water and not coolant.The dipstick shows normal oil and the cap does have a minute amount of white but I think at the moment that is normal considering the weather.
The pcv pipe is normal too.
From cold it starts instantly with normal tick over and normal exhaust emmision.With acceleration white oily smoke gets worse so that you cannot see and driving up the road leaves blue smoke behind it.All this while it still runs perfectly with lots of grunt and NO misfire.
This has the early distributor cap on it.Any idea anyone?

On a seperate note would a coil pack engine fit and what would I need to do/change to get it to run? eg ecu change etc?
Many thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Checked the oil on a level surface,no luck oil around 1/2 full,as I suspected,yet to do a compression test but thinking now valve stem seals?
 

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Yep, I was thinking valve stem seals too. I've done them w/o removing the head using the compressed air in the cylinder trick. The only safeguard I used was setting the piston at TDC in case the valve starts to fall. The piston has to be at EXACTLY TDC for it to work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I think also with using nylon rope pushed into the cylinder and use the piston to compress and stop valves from falling
 

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Do a "block test" to check for a bad head gasket, cracked block or head, etc. Do you have AutoZone parts store over there? Ours loan out the interesting block test tool here for free, but you may or may not need to pay for the test fluid. Do the compression test too.

The RAV4.1's mildly bad valve stem seals show up as whitish smoke on some starts, not while running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have a block test tool coming from ebay,I now think it has done a valve though,also all plugs are black and oily and spark plug 3 the gap was fully closed ?
 

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I'll assume "fully closed" means with oil/carbon, and not smashed.

Replace all the spark plugs (with the proper ones) and the air filter. The PCV valve too, and check your timing. Does it run better, but still smoke a little?

When was the timing belt-kit replaced last? {And the water pump done at the same time.}

If still the same: You write 118,000 miles on it. Are you the original owner? (Or possibly the engine has many more miles?) Oil and filter changed every ~3000 miles or so? {If otherwise OK, we'd then be debating a full rebuild vs. valve job vs. just the seals.}
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
LugNut,No I just got it as spares or repair,I knew there was an issue with it.The spark plug was closed up like it was physically tapped together.
I changed plugs first thing.
The seller told me after I asked for more info,his dodgy mechanic was driving it and suddenly lost power(hence closed spark plug) and started smoking! I am not sure what to believe here but,I have it running sweet as I said before everything is fine except it smokes so bad you cannot see your self,smokes like a steam locomotive.It went through an emission test 200 mile previously,which I find hard to believe as well and through our full MOT test without any remarks at all,again strange for a 20+ year old motor,I think the rear shocks are loose or worn out,something not right but fixable.
Anyway I think the oil rings have gone,all plugs were black and oily.

I am now going to remove said engine and replace with another 3sfe completely as it will be a waste of time trying to fix this one.

All in all it is good for its age and I will turn it back into an honest motor again over the next few months.

I also think the gearbox could do with some more oil,tiny bit whiny in first/second and when you change down from 3rd to 2nd you don't need any brakes it slows down dramatically on it's own??
Don't tell me that has had it will you lol.
The said vehicle is my avatar
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Smokin'

I did a compression test,all cylinders were almost identical at 11 bar.I also did a block test and all clear,no contaminants either,I checked the oil again and now down to the minimum mark after idling for around 1/2 an hour.
Safe to say it can only be the oil rings in 1 or all 4 cylinders so this engine has had methinks really.It was supposed to have gone through an emissions test only 200 miles previously,This I cannot understand???

I have sourced another engine with similar miles (120,000) mine has 118.000

I wanted to take out the engine only through the top but this seems impossible as no room,so what is the minimum to do to drop out the bottom and how long roughly? I can leave the inlet and exhaust manifold on if poss as the other one has that on already
 

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If the facts are true; then this is a low mileage engine that suddenly started smoking while driving.
It sounds like the timing belt jumped a little.

Would only have to pull some covers to check the marks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Can you not see the pic of the smoke? are you confused with another thread?

If the timing was out,which it isn't It wouldn't cause it to smoke and use all the oil in an hour would it?
 

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'99 RAV4.1, 3MZ-FE, E250F 4x4, Torsen Dif
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Yes you have to drop the engine down, there is a lot to remove, you must get a good manual. I have a thread where I recently replaced my transaxle due to a blown colling line see http://www.rav4world.com/forums/85-...38-replacing-manual-transmission-project.html

Take pictures of everything, in detail at different angles and distances make sure they are clear it will help you out tremendously during reassembly. You cannot take enough pictures.

Remove the battery, to gain access to the wire harness where it goes through the firewall. Disconnect the wire harness from all the many connectors inside the car.

Remove the battery ground straps to the engine and transaxle.

Label and disconnect the many vacuum hoses.

Disconnect the gas line from the gas filter.

Disconnect the shift linkage.

Disconnect the clutch hydraulic line. That fluid leaking out is brake fluid and yes it will destroy any paint it gets on.

Disconnect heater and radiator hoses.

Disconnect power steering lines from reservoir and unbolt the reservoir and get it out of the way.

If you remove the exhaust manifold it makes getting the engine out a bit easier, not necessary but it is easier.

Many manuals will tell you to remove the power steering pump but, it isn't necessary. Just disconnect the lines as you lower it.

Remove the alternator and AC compressor. Leave the AC compressor hooked up to the refrigerant lines and support it with some zip ties

Put the front end of the RAV4 up on jack stands and block the rear tires front and back. Set the emergency brake.

You have to remove the control arms, if the bushings and/or lower ball joints are bad it is far easier to just buy new or rebuilt control arms than to do it yourself.

Disconnect the outer steering tie rod ends

Now remove your cv-joints - again inspect and if damaged it is easier and not much more expensive to replace the whole unit than to replace boots.

If 4x4 you will have to remove the drive shaft going to the rear differential.

You also have to remove the center and cross braces that run under the engine. Inspect those for corrosion damage repair and perform corrosion control.

Support the steering box to prevent it from getting damaged.

Disconnect the transaxle cooling lines (if you have them)

You will have to remove the stabilizer bar, when you do you will probably damage the end links so go ahead and get a pair of those and you may as well put new bushings on while you have it off.

I replaced the freeze plugs in my engine while I had it out and all belts hoses, water pump, etc.

Move that pesky EGR VSV to the firewall, you'll be glad you did.

I did corrosion control on everything and painted it all too.

I built my own replacement transaxle cooling hoses see http://www.rav4world.com/forums/94-...-your-own-manual-transaxle-cooling-hoses.html

I also replaced the front and rear engine seals, oil pump and oil pan gasket.

I pulled my radiator to keep it from getting damaged when removing the engine, it makes it a lot easier to get to the AC compressor. I found that the lower third of the radiator fins were heavily corroded, so much that you could poke your finger easily through them so I replaced that as well. See http://www.rav4world.com/forums/85-4-1-faults-fixes/243105-cooling-system-rebuild.html

As you can see it has turned into quite the project over several months but the time delay is largely due to other life events like hunting and fishing. Good luck with your project, Merry Christmas.
 

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I didn't have anyway of handling it all as a unit like that, it was just me doing all the work. I think the engine and tranny would still require disassembly from the cross members in order to get access to the bolts that hold the tranny to the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes possibly but this is easier to get too when its on the floor rather than crawl underneath or dive in the top.
I have use of an engine hoist,axle stands and 4x4 trolley jacks.
The other engine has inlet and exhaust manifold already on,I will put a new timing belt kit on and water pump and check the clutch plate,the other one also has clutch on it too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I got the power train and sub frame out all in one,This is the easiest way to remove the engine from the transmission,however I did not realise to remove all engine to gearbox mounts on the underside before dropping down the power train.
I also forgot to drain the gearbox oil,so most of it is all over the work place floor! Doh!

The engine was difficult to slide out from gearbox but went back in fairly easily.

Once out I had to swap basically everything over from my engine to the replacement one,both manifolds and all gubbings.
I did away with the A/C completely,no gas in it so ripped it out.
I fitted a new Timing belt and bearings and new water pump too.
Both engines still had the clutch fitted,so I used the best clutch plate of the two.
I fitted a new power steering belt and new shorter alternator belt so I did not have to fit a useless A/C compressor back on.

I have refitted nearly all just still to go are the front exhaust pipe,radiator and wheels.
Fill with engine and gearbox oils and coolant and plug back in the ecu inside the cabin.

Around an hours work left,no rush,then test her out I suppose.
More pics to follow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
All done!
Sorry I forgot in my haste to take any more pics but it's back in and started right away,no problem,no leaks NO smoke now,it did for around 8 miles but stopped then,using what was in the exhaust,all clear and dandy now runs sweet great little trucklet,

Now to let others know how to do it without lots of unnecessary work as stated in this thread by eodgator.

All you need are 10,12,14,17 and 19 mm sockets and spanners,a Phillips screwdriver,a ball joint seperator (fork like) and a hammer.Also a long bar for the tight subframe bolts.
Also pipe clamp remover,I used pliers mainly.
2 axle stands,2 car ramps and some blocks of wood or similar to support car when the power train is removed and a low flat trolley to pull it out with.
1 2 or 3 tonne engine hoist.

First remove Battery,then drain all the oils and water and remove the radiator,only 2 bolts and pipes.
Jack up car and rest on axle stands so you have enough room to move underneath
Remove down pipe,both ends,remove the centre bolts from the prop shaft and let hang down.Also remove the cross member if you can,then remove the lower engine to gearbox bolts and the plastic engine cover too.
Remove front wheels and brake calipers and discs and hook up somewhere out of the way.
Remove air filter and housings,Remove steering pump from strut and the two bolts holding the pipe on and rest on the engine safely,remove all pipes and tubes that are connected to the firewall,remove fuel lines and block return pipe on car.
Remove starter motor,remove A/C compressor and hook up safely out of the way,remove alternator (easier to get engine out this way)
Undo clutch slave cylinder and work it back to the firewall and tie back leaving it connected to the master cylinder
disconnect gear cables and pull out as you drop the assembley.
Undo the steering column bolt and remove.
Disconnect the wiring loom from the ecu and pull back into the engine bay,disconnect the wires from the fuse box in the engine bay,2 nuts and pull the connector,unclip and slide up,a bit fiddly.
Put chain on engine and tension up with hoist using the 2 hooks on the cylinder head.
Remove the 2 remaining engine mounts.
Underneath,time to crack off the subframe mounts,the 4 rear are 17mm bolts and the 2 front are 19mm
When all are loosened slowly take them out making sure hoist is taking the weight.
Undo the 6 strut bolts and slowly start to lower the powertrain,here is where the ball joint seperator comes in to play,use this to remove the steering knuckle as it slowly drops down,at this point remove the gearcables.
As you lower it the prop shaft will slide out too,then lower untill it is rested on the trolley you put under the powertrain.remove the hoist and chain up ther front of the car and raise until the engine is clear to pull out,use the car ramps and blocks of wood to rest the car on and remove the hoist and clear away.
Pull out the powertrain complete with subframe,steering and suspension all connected as it would have been when first installed in the factory.See my pics
Now you can get to everything to remove,fix and replace.
When reinstalling you may have to turn the engine while in gear to relocate the propshaft splines,other than that it's the opposite of removal

This is by far and away the most simple and easiest way and quickest too of removing the lump,no need to remove driveshafts or steering pump pipes or the like or having to bleed the clutch.

I hope this helps somebody in the future.I did not find any really helpful info from anywhere as to how to remove the engine,just lots of different opinions and no proper information,the Haynes manual was about as good as a chocolate teapot except for torquing up the bolts
 
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