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What's up everybody? I have a 97 Rav4 4wd that I am rebuilding basically from the ground up. I bought it from a neighbor who said it was taken care of and loved. Which means he put gas in it. Anyway long story longer I have an oxygen sensor that I need to get out of 23 year old rust and corrosion. Any ideas? I have tried all the usual go-to's (blaster, heat, offset socket, breaker bar, tapping on it) so I'm drowning.
 

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Most auto part stores will lend you a oxygen sensor socket, which usually makes getting the sensor out a little easier. Keep spraying the PBlaster.

Get a small hand torch, looks like a large lighter, and heat around where the sensor screws in, avoiding the sensor itself. Put the OS socket on and use the largest bar/wrench length to turn it off. Have the socket/wrench combination that you'll be using setup before applying the torch.

Good luck, and use a good pair of leather gloves if possible when working in tight spaces when having to pull hard. This will save you some skinned knuckles.

Have a good day.
 

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Get a small hand torch, looks like a large lighter, and heat around where the sensor screws in, avoiding the sensor itself. Put the OS socket on and use the largest bar/wrench length to turn it off. Have the socket/wrench combination that you'll be using setup before applying the torch.
Having a proper O2 sockets helps tremendously. While I didnt have a 23 year old vehicle I did do it on an 10 year old one recently that was being stubborn. I heated the PIPE (as described above) and then used canned air upside down (uses the propellant) to cool just the O2 sensor. You might have to put some PBB on it "just" after shooting it with canned air to allow the PBB to penetrate.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Most auto part stores will lend you a oxygen sensor socket, which usually makes getting the sensor out a little easier. Keep spraying the PBlaster.

Get a small hand torch, looks like a large lighter, and heat around where the sensor screws in, avoiding the sensor itself. Put the OS socket on and use the largest bar/wrench length to turn it off. Have the socket/wrench combination that you'll be using setup before applying the torch.

Good luck, and use a good pair of leather gloves if possible when working in tight spaces when having to pull hard. This will save you some skinned knuckles.

Have a good day.
Thanks Paul but I have tried all that. That's why I said that I tried all of the go tossed. I guess I am just going to have to drill it and tap it but I was hoping not to. Thanks for your feedback nonetheless.
 

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-- Is this the front (upstream) oxygen sensor (really, air / fuel ratio sensor)? And for the 1997 Rav4, it has two nuts holding the sensor in place?

-- Drive until the engine is warm. Soak both nuts with PB Blaster while the engine is still warm. Repeat this once a day over several days.

-- With the engine warm, get an eye dropper and drip a few drops of PB Blaster over the threads that are exposed, right next to each nut. Observe: Do the stud's threads seem to be absorbing the PB Blaster? If so, this is the hoped-for capillary action, and you may get the two nuts off with a socket and breaker bar.

-- If there's room, use a pipe over the breaker bar to get more torque on the nuts.

-- Only attempt unscrewing the nuts after the engine is warmed up. The heat expands the studs' length-wise, reducing the diameter a bit. You want to try to unscrew the two nuts from the studs while they are as hot as possible.

-- If the nuts' threads are not absorbing the PB Blaster, you will have to carefully cut the nuts off, probably using a Dremel tool and a cut-off wheel, like either Dremel wheel #420 or #426. Many web sites talk about using a Dremel for bolt cutting. Have your vise grips handy for attempting to unscrew each nut after the Dremel or other cut-off tool pretty much precludes using a socket on the nut anymore.

-- You may want to remove the exhaust manifold to cut the nuts off. Doing so is likely much safer. Clues at:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The upstream was easy but the downstream was a nightmare I ended up having to take off the front motor mount and drill and extract with an EZ Out. What a nightmare but she's back running again with 248400 miles on her !
 
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