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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Everybody,
First, I just want to say thanks for all the info you guys have shared publicly through this forum. I based my purchase a lot on the posts and comments from this site.

I have a film project I'm working on and I need to be sure there aren't any performance mods I have missed for the V6 Rav4. I have a 2010 V6 Sport with SAP.

Here is what I want to accomplish: A stock looking and sounding(at idle) Rav4 that is a super sleeper. I know it already is a hidden gem in the performance department. I want it faster. I'm talking mainly from light to light. I will have access to a garage and mechanics so It doesn't have to be the simplest of jobs.

Here are the mods I have gathered from this site:

Intakes: K&N typhoon for the v6 Camry modified to fit in the Rav4
Weapon R - Dragon or Secret Weapon

Exhaust: I've seen a lot on here. I talked to a Flowmaster rep and he
suggested the DBX for what I wanted to do. Open to
suggestions as long as it's not too loud at idle.

NST Pulley: I'll get in contact with Myxalplyx for that.

Ultra Racing and all their braces and tower supports. Probably wont
get the rear sway since it only gains less than a millimeter
over stock for the price.

I know lighter wheels and tires would be great but since I want it to
look stock I might not be able to go nuts. At least get rid of the heavy
run flats.

And of course new plugs, wires, oil change, all the non Rav specific maintenance/mods/upgrades.

Soooo, is there any thing you guys know of outside of this list that is specific to the Rav4 V6 I'm missing?

Thanks for your time,
MB

P.S. I know about the TRD supercharger for the Aurion but it's probably not in the budget. Or maybe..we'll see.
 

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Anything you can do to reduce the diameter of the wheels will effectively "gear it down" and make it quicker. Maybe some of those super thin tires on light alloy rims to reduce both the diameter and weight. .
 

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Unless it has well over 100K miles plugs will do little or nothing at all, they are iridium tipped. Also there are no plug wires, it is coil on plug ignition.

Is it front wheel or all wheel drive?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
So in a perfect world, where I keep it looking stock, I might could go with the Rav4 17 inch rims and tires. I know it's kind of a lateral move...


FYI, after this is filmed I plan on getting new rims and tires that I like with less emphasis on the performance.
 

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Were there 16" aluminum wheels for one flavor of the RAV4? (Can't remember, think so?)

There were 17" aluminum wheels for the BASE RAV4 with Upgrade Value Package, specifically these:



What's cool about these is they look a LOT like the standard 18" aluminum wheels that came with the Sport, but are an inch smaller and probably somewhat lighter.

Also, you can remove the back seats, to drop some weight:


Obviously empty out the two "basement" storage compartments under the rear floor. I'd say remove the rear floor itself as well, plus the jack and toolbag from either compartment in the rear sides, plus all floor mats. Empty the glove compartment, sunglasses holder, and center console as well.

If it has a trailer hitch, remove it. Probably the same is true for mud flaps.

If it has a roof rack, remove the crossbars, if not the rack itself.

Plus, I'm pretty sure Myxalplyx uses a very small battery when he races. That saves a fair amount of weight.

Give it a good wash and perhaps waxing (or some such) to help it slip through the air. If you really want to go nuts, consider removing the radio antenna.

It's probably not exactly legal for regular vehicular use, but I believe there's more energy in non-oxygenated (Ethanol-free) gasoline.

You've got to drop the fuel tank to get to it, but a new/clean fuel filter couldn't hurt. Another reason to take the back seats out...

You could remove the V6 logo from the front grille, to hide what's under the hood and look just like the I4s, to help with the "sleeper effect."

At one point Myxalplyx talked about using a different torque converter, but I don't recall what the results were, or if he even did it.

Obviously when you make your runs, do it on only 1/4 tank of gas or so, to shed more weight.

Those are the things that jump to mind.

Best of luck!
 
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Oh yes, and don't wait until winter blend gas is out.

Do it while you can get fresh summer blend gas. It's my understanding that summer blend gas has more energy.

.
 

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Still haven't heard any reports on trying nitrous.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
These are all good points. Def going to shed some weight at some point. I'm hoping to dyno before and after all the mods but not do separate dynos for each mod. I plan on doing it all at once.


I'm not savvy on tuning. I called a place to see if they could tune an all wheel drive SUV and when they asked what car it was they said they don't have the info on the Rav4 to do it. I was under the impression they could do things to it based on the test results. Like they should know what to tweak here and there. I'm I wrong on this? Is that not how that works?
 

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These are all good points. Def going to shed some weight at some point. I'm hoping to dyno before and after all the mods but not do separate dynos for each mod. I plan on doing it all at once.

I'm not savvy on tuning. I called a place to see if they could tune an all wheel drive SUV and when they asked what car it was they said they don't have the info on the Rav4 to do it. I was under the impression they could do things to it based on the test results. Like they should know what to tweak here and there. I'm I wrong on this? Is that not how that works?
The basic dynotuning procedure, as you correctly noted, is to run a set of baseline tests for HP and TQ, and most important, air/fuel ratios, and then make adjustments to optimize them. Therein lies the difficulty. Many dyno operators don't have the knowledge or equipment to actually do tuning.
It takes the proper software to interface with the car's ECM (computer) or an add-on tuning device to make changes.
For example a friend of mine with a 904HP Corvette takes it to an experienced dyno operator but has a GM tuning expert meet him there to do the tuning.
In my own case I specialize in tuning Harleys and have the reputation as one of the best H-D tuners in the nation. But of the many tuning devices and software packages available I primarily use an add-on unit called a PowerCommander and avoid many of the very user-unfriendly products on the market. I can tune other brands such as Victorys with a PowerCommander but always try to steer them to other tuners that specialize in them.
So in theory it all sounds simple but in reality isn't.
 

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Another point of note: Toyota doesn't allow the engine to run at full power until it's warmed up, somewhere past "C" on the temperature gage.

So you'll want to wait until the engine is at full operating temperature before testing it or expecting maximum power from it.

.
 

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On a side note is there a way to delete your own posts?
Just let me or one of our moderators know which post you want to delete.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok I'll let you know. A few times I've posted a comment and then found my answer in 2 minutes and wish I didn't say what I did.


Good to know about the warm up.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The basic dynotuning procedure, as you correctly noted, is to run a set of baseline tests for HP and TQ, and most important, air/fuel ratios, and then make adjustments to optimize them. Therein lies the difficulty. Many dyno operators don't have the knowledge or equipment to actually do tuning.
It takes the proper software to interface with the car's ECM (computer) or an add-on tuning device to make changes.
For example a friend of mine with a 904HP Corvette takes it to an experienced dyno operator but has a GM tuning expert meet him there to do the tuning.
In my own case I specialize in tuning Harleys and have the reputation as one of the best H-D tuners in the nation. But of the many tuning devices and software packages available I primarily use an add-on unit called a PowerCommander and avoid many of the very user-unfriendly products on the market. I can tune other brands such as Victorys with a PowerCommander but always try to steer them to other tuners that specialize in them.
So in theory it all sounds simple but in reality isn't.

Some of the services on this project will be free so would you say if its free, let someone have a crack at it but if I have to pay for it, it's not worth it?
Or should I get at least something done after the mods or I wont get the full potential out of the intake and exhaust?
 

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Or should I get at least something done after the mods or I wont get the full potential out of the intake and exhaust?
My bet is that the intake and exhaust changes will make so little difference that tuning won't be needed.
Also note that changing tire diameter won't show up on a dyno since it doesn't actually improve HP, just acceleration.
 

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Suggestion for improving performance (c. 1500 HP) - now if one could only afford it and be able to shoehorn it into the 4.3's engine compartment :wink:
 
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