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Hey everyone,

I just changed my oil for the first time, I decided to go with a k&N filter and Mobil 1 advanced full synthetic (15,000) oil.

When I was doing my oil change I notice 2 major issues with the "process" of doing an oil change..

1. The drain plug, where you shove that plastic piece in and connect the tube to drain the oil out of the filter, How on earth are you supposed to get that thing out?? I tried everything to get it off and ended up having to break it and pull the small plastic pieces out. Anyone have any tips?



2. I used the TOY 640 Oil Filter Socket and I for the love of god couldn't get the dang thing off! I ended up having to put it in a vice and careful with a flat head screw driver pry it off. It took about 20 minutes of full panic mode. lol I think next time I will lube it up a bit more and hopefully prevent that?




Any thoughts or input would be very appreciated, I don't know why Toyota couldn't have just used a regular filter... I hate this cartridge crap.
 

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After disassembling that whole bottom end pressure relief cap and replacing the O-ring inside my first oil change, I don't bother anymore. That time I probably put it in my vice or used my air impact on it and spent half an hour messing with it - ridiculous!
Now I never try to take it off using it instead with my 3/8 breaker bar to remove the whole filter. I pop in a new filter element and put it back on in a couple minutes. I throw away a lot of unused O-rings and plastic tubes.

I'd be willing to bet that's how the quick-lube places do it too.
 

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Hero danny the TOY 640 wrench will not remove a very tight oil housing as you can see because of the design. The design was really for a spin on oil filter and even then it could not get a stuck oil filter out. (ask how I know) You need an oil filter wrench that goes up higher that grabs the top part ears that stick out. This design is better since it grabs the slant like the Toy640 but also has cut outs on the top part that grabs the ear sticking out on the two sides.

Like this one: Toyota Corolla RAV4 Auris Oil Filter Aluminum Cup Wrench | eBay

Lucky you did not have the plastic housing as many people ruin them because they are not removed with the proper tool or is way to tight. There was a thread the other day where someone brought it to a shop that wrecked the oil housing. (even some pros can't remove the oil filter properly!)

As Dr. Dyno mentioned just skip the center part draining and just take the whole thing off in one shot.
 

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I have the TOY 640 wrench and I've had it get stuck on the metal canister, it's a real headache. The TOY 640 did have its day. When it first came out it was so much better than everything else a lot of us bought one. Like DL 175 said the new design wrenches that have the notches are much better.
I have drained the canister before removing it one time and I said never again. I think most DIY people on this forum don't pre-drain the filter.
 

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rav4system,
That's an easy trick. I probably should drain the oil that way once in a while to get that 30,000 mile oil out! Not really, but I'd bet someone thinks the old oil is still in there! :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
After disassembling that whole bottom end pressure relief cap and replacing the O-ring inside my first oil change, I don't bother anymore. That time I probably put it in my vice or used my air impact on it and spent half an hour messing with it - ridiculous!
Now I never try to take it off using it instead with my 3/8 breaker bar to remove the whole filter. I pop in a new filter element and put it back on in a couple minutes. I throw away a lot of unused O-rings and plastic tubes.

I'd be willing to bet that's how the quick-lube places do it too.
Yeah, I'm officially done doing it that way, It was nice to help avoid a messy situation, but in the end it wasn't worth the headache.

Like this one: Toyota Corolla RAV4 Auris Oil Filter Aluminum Cup Wrench | eBay

Lucky you did not have the plastic housing as many people ruin them because they are not removed with the proper tool or is way to tight. There was a thread the other day where someone brought it to a shop that wrecked the oil housing. (even some pros can't remove the oil filter properly!)
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I'm going to buy this right now, thank you!

I have the TOY 640 wrench and I've had it get stuck on the metal canister, it's a real headache. The TOY 640 did have its day. When it first came out it was so much better than everything else a lot of us bought one. Like DL 175 said the new design wrenches that have the notches are much better.
I have drained the canister before removing it one time and I said never again. I think most DIY people on this forum don't pre-drain the filter.
Lol I wished I had known better! They need to update the oil change DIY. I don't want more people to make the same mistakes I did.
 

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I'm sorry, but I have been staring at this image for about 5 minutes and don't understand why I'm supposed to do this?
By placing the box wrench the way I have it in the picture it will allow you to remove the small cap to have access to get the drain tube in...once the oil is drained you can then spin off the larger part of the oil filter housing...I do it this way and never spill any oil...
 

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By placing the box wrench the way I have it in the picture it will allow you to remove the small cap to have access to get the drain tube in...once the oil is drained you can then spin off the larger part of the oil filter housing...I do it this way and never spill any oil...
Open end wrench:wink:

I always use the little drain tube. Works well and keeps oil from sloshing all over the place when you remove the filter.

Get the oil filter tool that grabs the ribs in addition to the hex flats.
 

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Use a box wrench like this to prevent the housing from spinning...
A wooden stick the right length would work just as well. Then store it with your oil change kit. Maybe I'll start making them, calling it a special tool complete with Dr. Dyno part number. Advertise it's non-marring and lightweight benefits, offer a lifetime warranty and sell them for a good profit.
rav4system, what would you want for a royalty?
 

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A wooden stick the right length would work just as well. Then store it with your oil change kit. Maybe I'll start making them, calling it a special tool complete with Dr. Dyno part number. Advertise it's non-marring and lightweight benefits, offer a lifetime warranty and sell them for a good profit.
rav4system, what would you want for a royalty?
I'm in LOL...could get some plasti dip and market them in various colors...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
By placing the box wrench the way I have it in the picture it will allow you to remove the small cap to have access to get the drain tube in...once the oil is drained you can then spin off the larger part of the oil filter housing...I do it this way and never spill any oil...
Open end wrench:wink:

I always use the little drain tube. Works well and keeps oil from sloshing all over the place when you remove the filter.

Get the oil filter tool that grabs the ribs in addition to the hex flats.

Oh, i'm sorry, I don't think you guys understood my question (either that or I just worded it wrong). I'm trying to figure out how I remove the plastic tube I stick up in the oil filter after I remove the small cap? You know that plastic piece that clips in there and starts draining the oil?

Here's the pic I linked earlier of what I'm talking about. As you can see the small plastic piece is draining out the oil, but once its done it will not come off
 

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Here's a great PVC tool a man made to make oil changes easier and less messy.
2GR-FE 3.5L V6 TOYOTA / LEXUS Diy Oil Filter Tool

NOTE: parts per million of silicone will kill an engine Oxygen sensor. So make sure you get a proper type of adhesive, like an automotive grade gasket adhesive for engines.

 

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Oh, i'm sorry, I don't think you guys understood my question (either that or I just worded it wrong). I'm trying to figure out how I remove the plastic tube I stick up in the oil filter after I remove the small cap? You know that plastic piece that clips in there and starts draining the oil?

Here's the pic I linked earlier of what I'm talking about. As you can see the small plastic piece is draining out the oil, but once its done it will not come off
That should have threads on it...righty tightly, lefty loosey...you do not just jam it up in there...it should be twisted in and twisted out...
 

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That should have threads on it...righty tightly, lefty loosey...you do not just jam it up in there...it should be twisted in and twisted out...
No, the plastic piece has no threads, it snaps in. According to the instructions you are supposed to break it off, and it takes the o-ring with it.
 

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I could swear the ones I have used were threaded...I don't ever recall snapping it in and breaking it off...I will have to pay attention since i have about 800 miles til the next oil change...
 

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Oem ones don't have threads. I use 90 degree pliers, apply light pressure and twist out. 95% of the time it comes out with out breaking.
 

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As you can see in the picture, the OEM one has no threads. I have one from a FRAM filter that looks exactly the same:

 
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