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I have that wire picture. But unfortunately I’m not clear on where to tap them.
You have several options to tap the wires, to minimize running the 5 wires wires through the door rubber grommet/wire loom, I opted on the lower dash area location and tapping them on the door connectors at the footwell/kick panel area. I used a voltmeter to trace the proper wires to tap on (door lock/door unlock ACC and +12V constant):

I have a pic of the footwell area door connectors where I tapped the wires:

 

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So using Carthome kit requires no taps onto wires? And when updating the new switch on the door is the only wiring I need to pin?
 

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So using Carthome kit requires no taps onto wires? And when updating the new switch on the door is the only wiring I need to pin?
If you use the kit switch, no taps at al since it has bypass connectors to connect to the socket under steering wheel. Check the youtube video for Carthome kit.

I did not upgrade to the mirror switch on the door. The wire to the kit switch has 4 : power, ground, open, close. So this may be easier to upgrade to use mirror switch.
To do that, I think, you need only add two pin 11 and 12 to the existing door connector. PIN 11 and 12 will connect to the open/close wires cut off from the kit switch. If the 9 is open, just move/add ground wire to PIN 9:

158752
 

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I just replaced my switch and was curious on the wiring. My connector has these slots already filled.
Could it be possible that my version of the car is already wired except the actual mirror motors?
 

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Wow. I haven’t taken the door panel off yet but now I’m wondering how to proceed or things to watch out for like an extra connector or perhaps the car needs only to be programmed at the dealer.
 

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If PIN 11 and 12 have wires, you may be able to connect the fold/unfold wires to the mirror switch easier. There are still lots of work to complete the power mirror kit installation.

Wow. I haven’t taken the door panel off yet but now I’m wondering how to proceed or things to watch out for like an extra connector or perhaps the car needs only to be programmed at the dealer.
 

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You would think the power folding kit would be sold with the option of which switch you want. The push switch by the driver knee or the power mirror switch.
 

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If you use the kit switch, no taps at al since it has bypass connectors to connect to the socket under steering wheel. Check the youtube video for Carthome kit.

I did not upgrade to the mirror switch on the door. The wire to the kit switch has 4 : power, ground, open, close. So this may be easier to upgrade to use mirror switch.
To do that, I think, you need only add two pin 11 and 12 to the existing door connector. PIN 11 and 12 will connect to the open/close wires cut off from the kit switch. If the 9 is open, just move/add ground wire to PIN 9:

View attachment 158752
I’m waiting for some brave sole to post that they have installed the cartrimhome kit with the steering wheel plug, but has pulled the pins from the cartrimhome switch and wired instead to this connector.

I also have a US built RAV4, so pins 9,10, 11 are empty, and a limited so no room for the switch.

to help someone try, the armrest switch has the following connections:
Mirror rocker switch in the middle: connects 9 to 11
Mirror open switch: all open
Mirror closed switch: connects 9 to 12

(hope I transcribed that right from my ohm meter and notes)

how does the cartrimhome switch work? Number of wires, connections when pressed etc.
does it offer all 3 settings of default, open, and closed?
 

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In my RAV4
PIN 9 -> PIN 11 -> AUTO FOLD
PIN 9 -> PIN 12 -> FOLD

The wiring is there to use the original switch...

View attachment 156810
View attachment 156811
View attachment 156812
View attachment 156813
Do you have a link to where you purchased the
Wow. I haven’t taken the door panel off yet but now I’m wondering how to proceed or things to watch out for like an extra connector or perhaps the car needs only to be programmed at the dealer.
I'm curious how this works out for you as I'd like to do the install with the OEM door switch like you are- but hesitant based on the wiring. Please keep us posted with how you end up modifying the wires
 

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Perhaps you have to try yourself. I did not use the door armrest switch since I already cut a hole to install a switch for 2nd battery and not a big deal to cut another for mirror switch. I used cartrimhome kit and the switch wires are simple:

159165


The red is for the light on the switch. So I guess blue and yellow to be connected to PIN 11/12.
However, this switch works (can fold/unfold mirrors) only when engine is ON. The switch can be pushed to turn the light off/on after engine stops, so that the light on the switch can keeps on/off after engine stops, which won't affect the mirror position.

I’m waiting for some brave sole to post that they have installed the cartrimhome kit with the steering wheel plug, but has pulled the pins from the cartrimhome switch and wired instead to this connector.

I also have a US built RAV4, so pins 9,10, 11 are empty, and a limited so no room for the switch.

to help someone try, the armrest switch has the following connections:
Mirror rocker switch in the middle: connects 9 to 11
Mirror open switch: all open
Mirror closed switch: connects 9 to 12

(hope I transcribed that right from my ohm meter and notes)

how does the cartrimhome switch work? Number of wires, connections when pressed etc.
does it offer all 3 settings of default, open, and closed?
 

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Since it seems my loom is already wired, am I correct to say that I just need to tap into the yellow and blue. Or have all four wires wired in.
 

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Just got the cartrimhome kit. Please tell me why there is a long threaded rod? And also that triangular plastic piece?
 

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Just got the cartrimhome kit. Please tell me why there is a long threaded rod? And also that triangular plastic piece?
They decided to ship one standard kit with everything versus different variations of the kit to certain countries. Those two pieces are not used in the install according to cartrimhome.
 

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Since it seems my loom is already wired, am I correct to say that I just need to tap into the yellow and blue. Or have all four wires wired in.
Now that you have the kit, could you test the supplied switch at its different settings to see what pins/colors are connected at different settings?
I just used an ohm meter to test the oem switch

then you could match that with what we know of the oem armrest switch
 

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You're going to have to assist with the steps of testing with an ohm tester.
 
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