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Well, first you would have to have a Multimeter. From the sounds of it, that's unlikely.
Power folding mirrors
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1. set your multimeter to resistance, or ohms, or the little round ohm symbol. Accuracy of your meter doesn't matter, as we're just looking for connectivity, rather than actual resistance measurement
2. The meter now shows max or infinite or something - this is an open circuit, no connection. Touch the two leads together, it should jump down to around zero - that's a connection.
3. Take the cartrimhome switch, hold your two leads on each possible combination of pins, and see if they are connected or not connected with your meter.
4. repeat for all switch settings (I'm not familiar with the switch, is it just pushed and not-pushed or are there 3 settings like the oem switch?)
Helpful to note the relation of the pins you were testing vs. the color of the wires on the cartrimhome wire loom.
From all that info, we compare against posts above about the oem switch and its pin #s and colors, and come up with a map between the two.
Good luck, let us know what you find
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I would not call it "less wiring incompatibilities" since it is fully compatible. CarTrimHome kit has harness to connect to the plug under the steering wheel, which makes it much easier to install. It does have an optional yellow wire not used for RAV4, but you can just ignore it.
Alright thanks for the clarification. Guess I'll be picking up the cartrimhome version.
Here's hoping they do some kind of black friday sale
There are much better options on aliexpress, cheaper and have more features than just folding mirrors..
Mind linking me on what these options are?
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Here is a photo of the switch connection on the back(cat for scale). Looking at it from this direction if you number the pin on the left as pin 1 to the right pin 5 here is what I found.
Pin 1 is the black wire, probably ground as stated earlier
Pin 2 is 12v power
Pin 3 is unused
Pin 4 is blue control circuit
Pin 5 is Yellow control circuit.
The switch itself is a momentary latching switch-ie it doesn't stay in a depressed position, but electrically it will stay closed after one push and reopen on a subsequent push.
Pin 1 and 2 are certainly for an internal LED. They did not connect to pins 4 or 5 in any combo.
Pin 4 and 5 conncect with a push of the switch and disconnect with the next push. Resistance when connected was about 5 ohms.
Hope this helps.
(edited for spelling)
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I would have concerns too. It appears that this switch only sends signal to the controller, which in turn determines the mirror state. The instructions that come with this explain how a different number of open and close signals the operation of the mirror changes. Not sure how well this would work with the OEM armrest switch. I'm wondering if there isn't a mirror controller that Toyota has installed on cars with the folding function from the factory.
I wonder if now that the Rav4 Prime has folding mirrors with the XSE trim, J Vin XSE and Limited hybrid trims will have an easier time with the upgrade?
I have glanced through this thread but at this point isn't it just the motor and switch part numbers needed from the Prime and you are good to go with a normal J Vin hybrid? No more aftermarket parts needed, correct?
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So I just finished my install and thought I'd share a few tips and observations. I installed the Cartrimhome kit, so all of these are for that kit.
Both of the videos that have been posted on this thread are pretty good and cover most of the steps. I used them both for reference and found them very helpful.
First observation:
The red wire that is bare coming from the switch connector is only to light up the little mirror graphic on the switch and isn't needed for any functionality. I hooked it up to a 12v source and found that it is lighted white, unlike the other light blue switches in the Rav. It is also RIDICULOUSLY bright. I moved it to an unused connector in one of the switch blanks nearby and found a 7V source that helped, but for some reason the Cartrim home switch dims in reverse of the rest of the switches. It gets brighter as the other switches dim. I'm going to look into this more later and see if I can find a better way to wire it, or I may just disconnect entirely.
Second observation:
I expected that fishing the wires through the boot between the car and the door would be one of the hardest parts, and for the most part I was right. I tried a couple of things before finally finding a method that worked pretty well.
I used a fairly long (12-14") tie-wrap as my fish tape. I coated the pointy end with a bit of silicone grease and pushed it through from the cabin until it came out in the door frame. Then I routed it into the small cutout in the boot and pushed it and manipulated the boot until it came out on the other side. I taped the wires to the other end and pulled through. I then pushed the tie wrap into the door with the wires still attached. It was pretty simple then to use a grabber(Mechanics helper) to snag the tie wrap and pull it up to the mirror access door.
![159773]()
![159774]()
Third observation:
The OEM harness has no extra length to it. I originally tied up some excess harness in the mirror and later found out that I didn't have enough length to reach the connector on the door. Had to open the mirror up and feed the extra harness back through to the door. The pic below is my pretty wiring job that was completely wrong. All of the factory sleeving should go into the center tube of the mirror pivot.
![159775]()
Both of the videos that have been posted on this thread are pretty good and cover most of the steps. I used them both for reference and found them very helpful.
First observation:
The red wire that is bare coming from the switch connector is only to light up the little mirror graphic on the switch and isn't needed for any functionality. I hooked it up to a 12v source and found that it is lighted white, unlike the other light blue switches in the Rav. It is also RIDICULOUSLY bright. I moved it to an unused connector in one of the switch blanks nearby and found a 7V source that helped, but for some reason the Cartrim home switch dims in reverse of the rest of the switches. It gets brighter as the other switches dim. I'm going to look into this more later and see if I can find a better way to wire it, or I may just disconnect entirely.
Second observation:
I expected that fishing the wires through the boot between the car and the door would be one of the hardest parts, and for the most part I was right. I tried a couple of things before finally finding a method that worked pretty well.
I used a fairly long (12-14") tie-wrap as my fish tape. I coated the pointy end with a bit of silicone grease and pushed it through from the cabin until it came out in the door frame. Then I routed it into the small cutout in the boot and pushed it and manipulated the boot until it came out on the other side. I taped the wires to the other end and pulled through. I then pushed the tie wrap into the door with the wires still attached. It was pretty simple then to use a grabber(Mechanics helper) to snag the tie wrap and pull it up to the mirror access door.
Third observation:
The OEM harness has no extra length to it. I originally tied up some excess harness in the mirror and later found out that I didn't have enough length to reach the connector on the door. Had to open the mirror up and feed the extra harness back through to the door. The pic below is my pretty wiring job that was completely wrong. All of the factory sleeving should go into the center tube of the mirror pivot.
The XSE Prime in the US does not have folding mirrors.
Oh I see, the specs state "folding feature" they mean manual folding.
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