I chose to post separately from my original thread as it's more hybrid specific. No need to make the gas only owners jealous
This inverter mod is one which I was fascinated with when I read that other people use their Prii as a "plug out kit" during power outages. Essentially the vehicle acts as an efficient generator with 55L fuel tank. The 12v battery powers the inverter and the traction battery powers the 12v battery. The hybrid components enable the engine to power on and off charging and generating electricity to suit the different loads required.
I started with a quality Thor 2000 watt pure sinewave power inverter. I believe the Toyota inverter/converter system is capable of delivering up to 800-1000 watts of continuous power but that was several generations ago. I'm not too sure what the maximum power is for this current THS generation but it's probably safe to assume that sticking with anything under 1000 watts would be fine. My primary purpose is to be able to power my fridges, freezer, router, laptop, gas furnace and gas water heater in the event of an extended power outage. 1000 watts would be quite tight but if everything takes turns and the load is monitored through a Kill-a-Watt it should be fine. 2000 watts gives enough surge capability without the overloading the inverter. There are many complaints of various inverters not meeting the advertised specs thus stick with the higher priced units for higher quality parts. You get what you pay for. I tested my setup using a table saw with a 3400 watt in-rush current without any issues. To operate, it's as simply as hooking everything up, starting the car as normal and leaving the vehicle unattended like any other generator. The hybrid system will turn on the engine whenever the 12v battery drops in voltage.
Suffice it to say, don't do this in an enclosed garage where carbon monoxide could build up. Monitor your gas levels so you don't run it bone dry. Have a second key and lock the doors so your vehicle doesn't get stolen. Watch the wattage draw so you don't kill your 12v battery or worse yet, destroy the hybrid components drawing too much power. Use heavy duty extension cords with a low AWG for longer distances.
For the parts, I bought 6' each of red and black 1/0 cable, 200A ANL fuse with holder, 175A anderson connectors and appropriate lug nuts. With the stiffness of the cable and how unwieldy it was, it took a lot of patience to measure and figure out how best to route the cables. I like how there's a removable false floor with a nook to the spare wheel well that the cable can pass through. This way I don't have to remove the main floor panel when in use or cut/drill any unsightly holes. One thing to note is that because this is a hybrid, the 12v AGM battery is in the trunk. Non-hybrid models that use standard lead acid batteries aren't suitable for deep discharging. The engine would also have to run continuously negating any efficiencies.
This inverter mod is one which I was fascinated with when I read that other people use their Prii as a "plug out kit" during power outages. Essentially the vehicle acts as an efficient generator with 55L fuel tank. The 12v battery powers the inverter and the traction battery powers the 12v battery. The hybrid components enable the engine to power on and off charging and generating electricity to suit the different loads required.
I started with a quality Thor 2000 watt pure sinewave power inverter. I believe the Toyota inverter/converter system is capable of delivering up to 800-1000 watts of continuous power but that was several generations ago. I'm not too sure what the maximum power is for this current THS generation but it's probably safe to assume that sticking with anything under 1000 watts would be fine. My primary purpose is to be able to power my fridges, freezer, router, laptop, gas furnace and gas water heater in the event of an extended power outage. 1000 watts would be quite tight but if everything takes turns and the load is monitored through a Kill-a-Watt it should be fine. 2000 watts gives enough surge capability without the overloading the inverter. There are many complaints of various inverters not meeting the advertised specs thus stick with the higher priced units for higher quality parts. You get what you pay for. I tested my setup using a table saw with a 3400 watt in-rush current without any issues. To operate, it's as simply as hooking everything up, starting the car as normal and leaving the vehicle unattended like any other generator. The hybrid system will turn on the engine whenever the 12v battery drops in voltage.
Suffice it to say, don't do this in an enclosed garage where carbon monoxide could build up. Monitor your gas levels so you don't run it bone dry. Have a second key and lock the doors so your vehicle doesn't get stolen. Watch the wattage draw so you don't kill your 12v battery or worse yet, destroy the hybrid components drawing too much power. Use heavy duty extension cords with a low AWG for longer distances.
For the parts, I bought 6' each of red and black 1/0 cable, 200A ANL fuse with holder, 175A anderson connectors and appropriate lug nuts. With the stiffness of the cable and how unwieldy it was, it took a lot of patience to measure and figure out how best to route the cables. I like how there's a removable false floor with a nook to the spare wheel well that the cable can pass through. This way I don't have to remove the main floor panel when in use or cut/drill any unsightly holes. One thing to note is that because this is a hybrid, the 12v AGM battery is in the trunk. Non-hybrid models that use standard lead acid batteries aren't suitable for deep discharging. The engine would also have to run continuously negating any efficiencies.
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