Toyota RAV4 Forums banner

21 - 31 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,202 Posts
Did my 4.2 with Deeza,( high quality from Turkey) from Rock Auto and lucky since they had a close out price. Cost $85 for all four links. Had to cut most links off even after soaking with Kroil rust penetrant for days. New York rust always wins.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hello all, I'm new and I need to replace the rear sway bar end links on my 2007 Rav basic model. My problem is I don't know where they attach. Has anyone done this and do you have pictures? Thank you in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
2006 RAV4 Sport with 104k miles and just replaced both broken sway bar end links with the Moog K750257 from Rock Auto... definitely beefier looking quality end links with zerk fittings.

My wife was getting tired of the clunking noise from the broken links.
I tried to post pictures but the forum wouldn't let me insert images or links because my post count is too low.
Driver's side..
flic.kr/p/29iWtp5

Harder to see the passenger side, had to disconnect the tail pipe from the last two hangers so I could install it...
flic.kr/p/29iWuad
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Just saw my driver's rear sway has an issue. Nothing looks broken but the bushing has pulled through the hole in the control arm. Do I just get new bushings and press it back through or do I need whole new end links?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
RockAuto has bushing kits from $10-$22 and complete end links from $8-$33. The beefy Moog's I installed were $29. If you want to save $20 each side then you could go with the cheap bushing kit... but I'd make sure first that you can remove the existing nut on the lower control arm and the end link is in good condition. It would stink to buy just a bushing kit and have the end link snap at the rusted threads when you try to remove the lock nut.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
I think I'm actually missing the nut on both sides, which would be why 1 side pulled through. Looks like it happened a long time ago given how rusty the threads are. I'll go with the Moog option so I don't have to worry about it again, though I did get 120k mi out of the OEM setup.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
My wife's Rav just started making loud noises from the rear end, especially when turning at speed but also not quite as loud noises when going over big washboard. Sure enough the passenger side sway bar linkage rubber bushing is missing and the linkage bolt/nut has pulled up through the control arm hole. I bopped it with a hammer and popped back down. No rust, just a missing rubber washer/bushing thingy. Where did the metal cap go? I can understand the bushing cracking open and falling away, but the metal cap looks pretty heavy duty. I guess it cracked as well. Possibly due to abuse w/o the bushing in place - metal on metal... 160,000 miles. Just did the front sway bar linkages too. Man, this car...so many problems...both in quality and design. I gotta do more research the next time I buy a car. Switching over to Honda CRV next time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
418 Posts
It is not uncommon for the bolt itself to crack from being overtightened and then rust will develop in the crack and break it off. The nut should only be tightened until it bottoms on the threads. An more than that will damage the bolt.
The ball/socket should also be lined up properly. The extra thread sticking down can be removed if desired. You will have to replace the link if you remove it later, but it won't catch on anything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
418 Posts
It is not uncommon for the bolt itself to crack from being overtightened and then rust will develop in the crack and break it off. The nut should only be tightened until it bottoms on the threads. An more than that will damage the bolt.
The ball/socket should also be lined up properly. The extra thread sticking down can be removed if desired. You will have to replace the link if you remove it later, but it won't catch on anything.
 
21 - 31 of 31 Posts
Top