Toyota RAV4 Forums banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My radiator has a small leak near top. I noticed steam and fluid low. I see small bubbles and leak at top right looking from front. Can I simply try to apply a sealant to try to fix? Or is a new radiator in order?
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
Joined
·
2,045 Posts
Not worth taking a chance on a breakdown and overheating your engine, I would replace it, if it is the original radiator it probably has clogs in it anyway. If it is leaking in one spot it will soon start somewhere else. And, I would never use stop leak in any vehicle, it causes more problems than it cures.

Before you replace it flush the system to clean it up. Probably a good idea to do your hoses and thermostat while you are there.

You can get a great quality radiator on-line for half the price than one from a parts store and way way less than a Toyota OEM. See my thread where I rebuilt my cooling system - http://www.rav4world.com/forums/85-4-1-faults-fixes/243105-cooling-system-rebuild.html

If you read through the whole thing you will note that I had to use a Toyota OEM thermostat rather than the one initially listed because of overheating.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
807 Posts
I would bring it to a shop that specializes in radiators and cooling. Might be an easy fix for them. Most will pressure test it and weld it to save you a bunch of money. (Assuming it's not beyond simple repair)
 

·
Premium Member
1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
Joined
·
2,045 Posts
A new radiator only costs around $83 US at amazon.com, and it is a not a difficult or overly time consuming job, you just need common hand tools. The hardest part is getting the cooling fans off so that you can pull the radiator. You'll spend a lot more than that at a radiator shop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks all! I shall try it (New radiator diy)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Not worth taking a chance on a breakdown and overheating your engine, I would replace it, if it is the original radiator it probably has clogs in it anyway. If it is leaking in one spot it will soon start somewhere else. And, I would never use stop leak in any vehicle, it causes more problems than it cures.

Before you replace it flush the system to clean it up. Probably a good idea to do your hoses and thermostat while you are there.

You can get a great quality radiator on-line for half the price than one from a parts store and way way less than a Toyota OEM. See my thread where I rebuilt my cooling system - http://www.rav4world.com/forums/85-4-1-faults-fixes/243105-cooling-system-rebuild.html

If you read through the whole thing you will note that I had to use a Toyota OEM thermostat rather than the one initially listed because of overheating.
Hi, when I look up the radiator that you used on Amazon it tells me that it won't fit my 1997 RAV 4, but it fit on your 99?
 

·
Premium Member
1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
Joined
·
2,045 Posts
Yes the one I listed fits my 99 but I just checked and it says that it doesn't fit a 97. Just look up your 97 to get the right radiator.
 

·
Registered
1998 Rav4, manual transmission, 2WD, JDM engine installed in 2013
Joined
·
772 Posts
This site https://parts.bouldertoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-radiator-assembly-164007a491 says Toyota OEM part number 16400-7A491 is the radiator for a 1996-2000 manual transmission Rav4, replacing part number 16400-7A490 . Put in the latter part number into http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/, and the results say it is also the radiator for the 1994-2000 Rav4s (manual tranny?).

For auto transmission, the two part numbers (for all years according to toyodiy.com) are 16400-7A501 and 16400-7A500.

Autozone says the 1996-1997 radiator has a different width compared to the 1998-2000 radiator:
Duralast A1859 for 1996-1997, width 27.875 inches
Duralast B2292 for 1998-2000, width 27.625 inches (1/4 inch less than the above)

As far as auto vs. manual tranny, I think the difference is that the auto tranny radiator has two more connections, for cooling the gearbox oil? So far, I cannot see the difference from photos on the net. (Granted manufacturers on the net say photos may not be of the actual product.) Supposedly blocking off the ports on an auto tranny radiator permits use on a manual tranny radiator? At least some of the eBay radiators say they are for both auto and manual trannies.

A year ago I had a local radiator repair shop fix a cracked filler neck on the radiator from a friend's 1992 Toyota Pickup truck. (A few shops said consider repairing the old radiator, as it was all metal and aftermarket replacements are typically plastic.) The radiator repair shop did a beautiful welding job and re-painted the radiator. It looked new! The repair cost only about $70.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,117 Posts
Another vote for a new one. The original is 20 years old, and are considered wear parts. For my year, no replacements are more than $100 on RockAuto dot com. But buy local if you can, or unbox and inspect any carefully before accepting a package as they damage easily.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,535 Posts
Old thread - 2017. Presumably the OP resolved the problem some time ago. Still, some interesting advice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Mine just developed the same issue, original radiator with 250k miles on it, my AC need a recharge so I disconnected the condenser which made the job very easy. Remember to buy the lower radiator hose and the plastic coolant tube from the block to the lower radiator hose. Change the thermostat too if that hasn’t been done. What’s happening here is the plastic parts are getting baked for decades and starting crack from the wear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
My attempt to change the radiator didn't go so well. Due to corrosion, three bolt heads snapped off on me. After the first, I thought that I would deal with it, but by the third, I gave up and will take it to the mechanic this week. I don't want to try drilling out all of those bolts.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top