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Hello all,

As the title says my car is randomly dying on me. It has happened both at idle and while driving. It does seem to happen more idle than while driving though. After it dies i start it back up and it dies again, usually after it starting and dying a few times it will stay running. To me it appears random, some days it doesn't happen at all and some days it will happen 5 times.

These 2 codes are for igniter circuit malfunction on the 2nd and 3rd cylinder. So naturally the first thing I did was replace the ignition coil for those cylinders. But if that would have worked i wouldn't be here asking you kind people for help. When that didn't work i looked at the wires as best as I could to see if there was an exposed wire somewhere but found nothing. I looked at the wires by the ecm or ecu whatever it is called. The connectors looked good to my eyes also.

At this point I'm not sure what else to look for? Do i need to check the wires better? I had someone suggest to me that I replace the camshaft position sensor because something similar was happening to their vehicle once. But I wanted to see if anyone here had any suggestions first.

The car is a 1999 Rav4 awd.

Thank you for any help you can offer
 

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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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Faulty engine ground or dirty/bent connectors are your most likely culprits being you have already replaced the coils, but it could be the ECM. This era of vehicles are notorious for poor grounding, I upgraded all my grounds because of it. Clean all the contacts and use dielectric grease on the contacts.

How to diagnose this rascal (this was written for 2002 Camry so it may be slightly different from the 99 RAV4):

The coils are 4 wire coils and are wired as follows:

Pin 1. Battery positive. This is the 12V battery positive voltage from the "INJ" fuse and is applied on a shared wire between all 4 coils.

Pin 2. This is the IGF (coil fired signal) wire that transmits the "I was just fired" signal to the ECM. This wire goes straight from the coil to the IGF1 pin on the ECM. This is also a shared wire.

Pin 3. This is the IGT (coil fire) wire. This wire is where the fire command from the ECM comes from. Each coil has a wire directly to the respective IGT pin on the ECM for that cylinder (i.e. IGT1, IGT2, IGT3, IGT4). This is not a shared wire between coils.

Pin 4. Coil ground. This is the ground wire for the coil circuit. This wire goes straight from each coil connector to a ground point (I believe the back of the cylinder head). This is a shared wire.

Now the P013XX (X being the individual cylinder in question i.e. 00-Cyl 1, 05-Cyl 2, etc.) deals with IGF signal problems to the ECM. This is actually a pretty easy problem to diagnose and correct thanks to the coil wiring.

The problem is that after your ECM sends a signal for each of the coils to be fired, the ECM is not detecting that any of them were fired. This can be caused by a break in the wire section mentioned above, a loose/damaged pin in the ignition coil connector that is not making contact with the IGF pin on the coil, or an IGT wire that is not transmitting firing the coil (if the coil isn't actually fired, there will be no IGF signal even if the ECM thinks it was fired).

Here is a picture of the ignition coil connector so you can get a better understanding of the pin locations:



What you will have to do is inspect all of the wiring pins for that ignition coil connector.

For steps 1 and 2 here are the pins in the coil connector (for the following checks the coil connector will need to be unplugged):



1. Ground check. Check resistance between pin 4 (ground) of the ignition 3 coil connector and a good ground. You should have less a than 1 ohm reading.

2. Power check. Check voltage between Pin 1 (battery positive) of the ignition coil 3 connector and pin 4 of the ignition coil connector (ground). You should have between 9 to 14 volts.

If anything is wrong with these two areas, inspect the harness and repair any issues.

For steps 3-6 here are the pins in the coil connector and ECM connector (for the following checks both the ignition coil and the ECM E2 (leftmost connector) connectors will need to be unplugged). You will need to do these checks at all four coil connectors:



The below image is actually for a 2002 Camry but I think the connections are very similar. I could not find a specific ECM diagram for the 99 RAV4 so I hope it helps.



3. IGF open circuit check. Check resistance between Pin 2 (IGF) of the ignition coil connector and the IGF1 pin of the ECM connector. You should have less a than 1 ohm reading.

4. Check open circuit check. Check resistance between Pin 3 (IGT) of the ignition coil connector and the IGT3 pin of the ECM connector. You should have less a than 1 ohm reading.

5. IGF short circuit check. Check resistance between Pin 2 (IGF) of the ignition coil connector and a good body ground. Then check ECM IGF1 pin to ground. For both Pin 2 and ECM IGF1, you should have an OL reading.

6. IGT short circuit check. Check resistance between Pin 3 (IGT) of the ignition coil connector and a good body ground. Check resistance between IGTX (X being the cylinder number 1-4) of the ECM connector and a good body ground. You should have an OL reading.

You will also want to look for obvious damage or bad contact on the coil connector. It is VERY common for the coil connector to break and one of the pins to get pushed out. If one of the pins gets pushed out, you will have no contact or intermittent contact on that wire of the circuit and can have the problem you are describing. The wiring pin issue also applies to the ECM connector, but is less likely as it has only been moved for ECM replacement.

Follow these steps and report back.

I have to give credit to the original author at http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/104-camry-5th-6th-gen-2002-2006-2007-2011-2nd-gen-solara-2004-2008/1395562-all-4-igniter-circuit-malfunction-p1300-p1305-p1310-p1315.html.

Good Luck
 
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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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