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Rav4 1996 5 door does'nt goes off when i put it to drive or reverse in the morning

228 Views 9 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  kalibbala
I have my rav4 1996 model, when it stays a couple of hours off lets say 6 plus hours and i start it, it starts normally and idles fine, the moment i put it in drive or reverse and start accelerating the car engine goes off, its like it doesnt have enough power at the moment.

But also when in idle and i turn the steering fully to left or right and engine cuts off.
Also i noticed when i start it and its idling, and put put on the head lights, they headlights be flickering a bit.

This only happens on cold starts.

NB. If i manage to drive it some how, it doesnt do this issue again, even if you pack it for 3hours and start it again it doesnt do that issue mentioned above, the issue only happens after long hours parking like over night or 6 hours plus

Battery is exactly 9 months old.

What i have changed so far?
1. Spark plugs
2. Spark plugs wires
3. I had the relay fuse checked and all seemed fine
4. mechanic changed fuel filter

What could be the issue? my mechanic has really done all he can but the issue still happens.
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it can be a bad ground or the fuses at the battery.

check the new battery real close.
and the alternator real close.
the light flickering is a real sign something is wrong.
use a test light and a meter and trace for a voltage drop.

did you check the fuel pressure yet?
it could be a bad fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
it can be a bad ground or the fuses at the battery.

check the new battery real close.
and the alternator real close.
the light flickering is a real sign something is wrong.
use a test light and a meter and trace for a voltage drop.

did you check the fuel pressure yet?
it could be a bad fuel pump.
Actually if you say fuel pump i think it could be the problem, the mechanic has also insisted its the fuel pump, he explained in the line if "fuel in the fuel pump goes back down as the car is off and when i start it there isnt enough pressure to pump into into the system, thats why it goes off at the cold start"

i am going to try out a new fuel pump later today, i will give you feedback in 24 hours whether it works or not
 

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2010 2.0 VVTi RAV 4
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If you are suspecting the FP, we have helped another member on here with FP issues - check the connection and wiring integrity at both sides of the cover to the fuel tank under the rear seat. That issue was with the wiring on the tank side
 

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Sounds as if the car needs a full going-over, and some PM. Could be as little as a bad air filter or EGR, or ??? If you have OBD-II, scan the codes ASAP.

All 4.1 owners, unless you'd done this modification already, should search on here for old posts on adding an extra ground/earth strap/cable from the battery's negative terminal directly to metal on the engine. I used a ~20" heavy lug-ended lawn-tractor battery cable to the alternator's bracket (cooler than somewhere on the block or head).
 

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1998 Rav4, manual transmission, 2WD, 5-door, JDM engine installed in 2013
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I would home in on the Idle Air Control Valve, EGR system and ECT sensor for awhile. Here's my brain dump:

-- At cold engine, what is the idle speed for the first few minutes? The Idle Air Control Valve (IAC valve) is supposed to maintain the idle speed quite a bit higher (compared to a warmed up engine) until the engine is warmed up.

-- About idling and turning the steering wheel fully to the left or fully to the right: The Rav4's steering system has a "power steering air control valve" in it (mounted underneath the power steering pump) that is supposed to increase the air flow to the throttle body (via the IAC valve) a bit when the steering wheel is turned fully to one side or the other. This is why I am wondering if the idle air control valve is not working right.

-- Be aware that the IAC Valve has coolant hoses connected to it to provide cooling. The fact that the Rav behaves differently after running it awhile (with the IAC all warmed up) vs. a fully cold start also makes me wonder if the IAC valve is malfunctioning.

-- Download the attachment and see this video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3yb5RIlqPM-- Per the video remove, inspect and clean the throttle body, EGR system and IAC valve. I think it's possible the EGR valve is filthy and not closing fully. Before warm-up, the EGR valve is supposed to be fully closed.

-- Clean and bench test the IAC valve per the attachment and the video.

-- When turning on the headlights, the load on the alternator goes up, increasing the load on the engine. The flickering might be the IAC valve not responding properly to the increased load? In other words, I am not sure there is an electrical problem at this point.

-- Next I would check the ECT sensor. The engine computer relies on the correct temperature signal for setting the air-fuel ratio. To test the ECT sensor, go to Elle's 1996-00 Toyota Rav4 Site , open the guide titled "Starting & Running Problems," and go to the section that describes how to test the ECT sensor.

-- [Edit] Replace all vacuum hoses with high temperature-resistant silicone hoses, as described here: www.rav4world.com/threads/vacuum-line-replacement-with-high-temp-silicone-lines.255961/
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks guys, an update from me.
So i visited the repair shop yesterday,
1. the mechanic found that the fuel filter was worn out and had it replaced.
2. he also looked the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC valve) and cleaned(the previous mechanic had put some cloth and superglue somewhere around the air inlet and the middle hose pipe).

Moment of truth - this morning i started the car, and the issue wasn't there any more, it did not go off at any point.
I am going to keep monitoring it for the next few days, i will post here my update in the next days, so let me call this Day one of my update.

Thank you all for the replies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Day 8 Update

After cleaning up the Idle Air Control Valve as mentioned in my previous update, the issue resurfaced last evening when i leaving work, i started the car, put on the head lights and the car went off.
But this morning i started it, i did not put the headlights and the issue didn't happen.

My mechanic says i need to change the Idle Air Control Valve component, the one i have currently has been over tampered with since i am like the 5th owner now. I will change the Idle Air Control Valve next week and i will give an update here.
 
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