Toyota RAV4 Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I was fooling around replacing spark plugs and fuel injectors today, and while I was doing that, I removed the EFI fuse (20 amp) and then the fuel pump relay... While I was working on it, I didn't notice the headlights (for some odd reason!) were on. The battery drained... when I tried to start the car, the dash lights flickered and acted funny. Then went out. real odd. I noticed the battery was low and charged it back up (it was down to about 10v), and when i got into the car and tried starting it (dash lights were on again), and nothing happened. The pushbutton start (it's a Limited) was green, but pressing it resulted in NOTHING. No noises, no starting, no nothing. I tried pressing lock and unlock w/ the keyfob and nothing happened. The security light red LED is slowly going on and off on the dash. When I got out of the car and closed the door, the horn beeped softly three times. I tried opening the door and closing it again, and again came the 3 beeps. What's THAT mean?

I think the car forgot about the remotes..I think the car thinks it's unsecure and won't start and won't recognize the remotes!?
What now?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
i said i charged it back up... did you miss that part? 12.5v. battery charger said 'done'. i dont know if this was it, but i jumpered pins 4 & 13 on the odb2 connector and tried the other remote and it went 'brrp!' and turn OFF and went 'chirp!' and then the remote worked again! i am now recharging the battery since i fooled around on it so long it needed more juice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,265 Posts
i said i charged it back up... did you miss that part? 12.5v. battery charger said 'done'. i dont know if this was it, but i jumpered pins 4 & 13 on the odb2 connector and tried the other remote and it went 'brrp!' and turn OFF and went 'chirp!' and then the remote worked again! i am now recharging the battery since i fooled around on it so long it needed more juice.
I meant recharge the battery again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Oh. I went and bought a new battery. But that jumpering pins 4 & 13 seems to have done the trick. Remotes are working fine. Now, what's weird is that my ABS & BRAKE & SKID lights are all on. I could have dropped something down into the master cylinder / wheel area, but I don't think so. I think I put all the fuses back. Is the ECU just confused because it was running on super low power for a while? I think I will go try and clear the codes first and see if they come back.
 

·
Your Humble Administrator
2008 RAV4 Limited V6
Joined
·
16,529 Posts
You could have avoided all this by disconnecting the battery FIRST. It's usually the very first step in the service manual for any job in and around electrical stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
WHAT? and lose my radio settings?! I don't think so. I should be able to pull out an EFI fuse and fuel pump relay and be good to go. As long as I don't short the two battery terminals w/ a wrench... But, didn't know the headlights were on, it was such a bright day. Oh well, at least I didn't have to have it towed to the Toyota shop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
172 Posts
I don't know about Toyota, but the modern radios (like my 2001 Mercury Sable) don't lose the programed stations anymore.

And, yes always is recommended to disconnect the negative battery terminal. Not the positive one, not random fuses... When I work on fuel injectors I usually remove the fuel pump relay with engine running to drain somewhat the rails, and after the engine stops, remove the battery negative terminal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
it's not a random fuse or relay. And your car/battery doesn't care which terminal you remove first, so long as you don't short the positive one to ground while you're doing it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
172 Posts
so long as you don't short the positive one to ground
That's why you remove the negative one. Because the mass of metal around the battery makes it dangerous to put a socket, wrench or spanner on the positive one. It might slip accidentally and... melt the spanner in your hand.
When you play around the negative bolts, you can touch whatever is around, nothing bad will happen.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
That's why you remove the negative one. Because the mass of metal around the battery makes it dangerous to put a socket, wrench or spanner on the positive one. It might slip accidentally and... melt the spanner in your hand.
When you play around the negative bolts, you can touch whatever is around, nothing bad will happen.
This is exactly what is hopefully one of the very first things still being taught in automotive school. Them old cast iron spanners could fuse in a heartbeat. Just hoped it melted before the battery fried because you weren't pulling it off unless you had a heavy glove on.

Have a good day.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top