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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
The house is 100 years old but the electricity has been upgraded, we have a full home surge protector but we haven’t done much in the 20 years we have been here. I’ll find out more when the electrician comes but I do want to be ready to present the options to them for the next visit.

The reason I was asking if they do this in winter is if they have to dig a trench to get out to the detached garage.
 

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The house is 100 years old but the electricity has been upgraded, we have a full home surge protector but we haven’t done much in the 20 years we have been here. I’ll find out more when the electrician comes but I do want to be ready to present the options to them for the next visit.

The reason I was asking if they do this in winter is if they have to dig a trench to get out to the detached garage.
Ah. Yes, they will have to trench. My local codes required my conduit to be buried either 18 or 24 inches below ground (I don’t remember which off hand). I had my carport built right before I took delivery of Sparky. The bulders prepped the structure for 80amp service, and I wired the rest to be ready for two 50amp EVSEs.
 

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Depending on how or when the garage was wired it may have buried conduit run to it. In that case it would be a fairly simple job to just pull new wires through the existing conduit to upgrade the wiring to the garage. There is a limit on how many wires of each size can be used in any size conduit though, or the buried line may be a cable in which case it would have to be replaced to be upgraded.

All in all, I'd just ask the electrician to move the garage to a separate circuit (it shouldn't share a circuit with the kitchen per current code). If charging over-night is OK with you a 120V / 20A circuit is all that is needed.
 

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2021 Rav4 Prime XSE Pro Audio/Dynamic Nav/Weather Packages Build date: June 2021
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If charging over-night is OK with you a 120V / 20A circuit is all that is needed.
Unless you have a need to charge more than once/24h, or you have to keep the 20A circuit available for another big power drawer, or you plan on picking up another electric vehicle and will need to access the charger for each, there is no need to pay the $500 or so for a Level 2 charger and also the cost for a 40-50Amp circuit to operate it. We use the 120v charger supplied, perhaps 3x/week is about all we need ourselves. We're in EV mode 90% of the time.
 

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Living with the Toyota-supplied level 1 EVSE is 100% doable. We did it for the first seven months of owning our Prime..
Unless you have a need to charge more than once/24h…
Now that I have lived with both 12.5-hour charging and 2.5 hour charging, I can say that both are workable. I don't often charge more than once/24h, but still, the former is a hassle if you don’t have a regimented schedule. Know that you’re committing to 8 to 10 additional hours of charging…everysingletime you want to charge up from flat to full. You have to be certain that you plugged in the night before you want to drive it in EV mode. I no longer top it up "just in case," when I'm not sure I'm going to use it in the morning.

So, for some, level 2 would be an extravagant splurge. For others, it's a must-have necessity. I fell in the middle. For me, it's a worthwhile convenience that I probably would have done without, only a few years ago. My 2¢. YMMV.
 

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For others, it's a must-have necessity
I thought it was a must-have because of this sentiment espoused here in this forum by some and promptly ordered one before the car arrived. I ordered a Grizzl-e, and before adding a 50amp circuit we used the OEM 120v charger and could absolutely see no reason to keep the $500 charger and pay the $300 for the addition circuit. Moreover, our 'time-of-use' based charging for off-peak rate starts at 7pm and goes til 1pm the next day, so the 12h charge is absolutely fine--it charges while we sleep and that's the end of it. Plus, there is a slightly greater rate of degradation w/ L2 charging over L1 charging. Of note we pay ~$0.046/mile in electric utility fees which means for skipping this 'must have' appliance we can drive 17,391 miles for that $800. If we end up with a BEV down the road then we will fork over the $800 to go to L2 charging.
 

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I ordered a Grizzl-e, and before adding a 50amp circuit we used the OEM 120v charger and could absolutely see no reason to keep the $500 charger and pay the $300 for the addition circuit.
The words that immediately proceeded the text of mine that you quoted were: "So, for some, level 2 would be an extravagant splurge." I addressed your expressed sentiment first. You state that you see absolutely no reason to spend $800 on a L2. As you point out, one size does not fit all. A hat tip to you. That is wise management of your finances, since it works well for you, your time-of-use electric utility rates, and you are happy with the logistics involved.

My point about 12hr charging had nothing to do with time-of-use rate windows, which we don't have here (…yet). It was about the lead time in planning for using the car. If my battery's state of charge is down, it's convenient to charge for an hour while I get ready and add roughly 20 miles of range, rather than a paltry 4. It also means that I don't have to keep my battery topped up because I don't know if I'll use the car in the next dozen hours.

All I was saying is having lived with both L1-only and L2. I do find value in L2, especially with the 6.6 kW charger. The car works for me. I don't work for it.

Plus, there is a slightly greater rate of degradation w/ L2 charging over L1 charging.
Don't forget that with L1 charging, no pre-conditioning occurs before a hot battery gets charged (see p116). With L2, the battery gets cooled before charging proceeds.
 

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The reason I was asking if they do this in winter is if they have to dig a trench to get out to the detached garage.
[/QUOTE]
If you already have a buried cable to your detached garage, your electrician should be able to locate the junction box in the house where the garage wire is sourced from. Then it should be as easy as running a new feed from your panel to that junction box. No need to run an additional wire to the garage. You'll be limited to an L1 (OEM EVSE) but if you can live with the long charge times it will be your least expensive option.
 

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The words that immediately proceeded the text of mine that you quoted were: "So, for some, level 2 would be an extravagant splurge." I addressed your expressed sentiment first. You state that you see absolutely no reason to spend $800 on a L2. As you point out, one size does not fit all. A hat tip to you. That is wise management of your finances, since it works well for you, your time-of-use electric utility rates, and you are happy with the logistics involved.

My point about 12hr charging had nothing to do with time-of-use rate windows, which we don't have here (…yet). It was about the lead time in planning for using the car. If my battery's state of charge is down, it's convenient to charge for an hour while I get ready and add roughly 20 miles of range, rather than a paltry 4. It also means that I don't have to keep my battery topped up because I don't know if I'll use the car in the next dozen hours.

All I was saying is having lived with both L1-only and L2. I do find value in L2, especially with the 6.6 kW charger. The car works for me. I don't work for it.


Don't forget that with L1 charging, no pre-conditioning occurs before a hot battery gets charged (see p116). With L2, the battery gets cooled before charging proceeds.
Geez are we having a dual here? I understood your meaning I just wanted to emphasize for some an L2 charger offers little to nothing of value for around $800. Some just arriving may not yet have figured that out yet.
 

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After rebates and tax credits my level 2 cost me about $700. For me the convenience of 2.5 hour charging and $.05 per kWh rebate if I charge between 11 pm and 6am ( needed the level 2 equipment with wi fi to get rebate) is well worth it (and not a financial burden). To be able to go out during the day and come home, charge fully in 2.5 hours , and go out for another 40 or so EV miles in the evening is wonderful!
 

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I've had my RAV4 prime a little over a week and in the past few days as it has gotten colder (20's F) several times when I have plugged it in it has caused my circuit to overload and I have had to go from my detached garage to my basement to reset it. I will call an electrician but now I am considering getting a dedicated charger like a Grizzl-E or something similar as long as I am having an electrician come.

Has anyone else had something similar? There is not much on that circuit besides the garage door and light.
Advice appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Think about replacing the circuit breaker if you can do it yourself. They are inexpensive and occasionally start to go bad. If you are not comfortable changing it, then get an electrician. Lots of volts and current there.

Dave
Flaming red Prime SE for 6 months
 

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Think about replacing the circuit breaker if you can do it yourself. They are inexpensive...
… and hard to find. I wound up driving to two of the orange stores, two of the blue stores, and three local hardware stores before I found a 40amp breaker in stock.
 

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Just a note about GFCI's. Electricians usually install just one GFCI and then daisy chain it to all outlets that require them to be on a GFCI. It took me a little bit of head scratching to realize that all 3 of my bathrooms on different floors were chained and that it was tripped in one bathroom I would lose power in all.
 

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Just replacing the breaker is not the best idea. You need to be sure the circuit can handle the larger load.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I had an electrician come and put the garage on it's own circuit. All seems good now. I'm still considering getting an L2 EVSE so it can charge in 4.5 hours but that's a bit down the road.
 

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Just a note about GFCI's. Electricians usually install just one GFCI and then daisy chain it to all outlets that require them to be on a GFCI. It took me a little bit of head scratching to realize that all 3 of my bathrooms on different floors were chained and that it was tripped in one bathroom I would lose power in all.
I hate this. It's technically to code but so annoying. My final rental-townhome was setup like this.
 

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To go to a L2 EVSE he needs to add a 40A breaker and a NEMA 1450 outlet right? OR just buy an adapter, see pic, to use the OEM charging cable to plug into the 240V outlet. (this will reduce charge time to 6 hours).
Data transfer cable Usb cable Font Automotive lighting Cable
 
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