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Hey all, new to the forum here. I've got a 09 v6 sport with the tow package and I'm considering buying an enclosed trailer to pull around, possibly with a snowmobile in it. Weight wise I should be under 3500 but I was wondering if anyone on here has any input on pulling a 10-14ft enclosed trailer? Gas mileage would be a consideration, as well as the possibility of installing trailer brakes, or let me know if it's a bad idea all together. Anybody have some knowledge they could lend me? Thanks
 

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An open trailer would be cheaper, handle better, and give better fuel economy compared to an enclosed one.

An enclosed trailer are very tall so it has a lot of wind drag and if you are not loading inside with stuff that are high why would you want one?

You also may want to rent a utility trailer from Uhaul which is cost effective if all you want to do is carry something for 1 day.
 

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Yeah a flat deck would be better that way, mostly I would like an enclosed one to keep stuff safe and out of the weather/slush. I would be using it to move several times over the next few years and it would make sense for storage, the question is whether it would be realistic to pull it behind the rav. I know gas mileage can take a hit when you're pulling something behind a rav, I'm just not sure how bad it would be.
 

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Whichever way you go trailer-wise, I would strongly suggest trailer brakes, whether they are required by state law or not. The safety margin and peace of mind are worth it.
 

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I would probably guess that the fuel economy would be less than half what you normal get. Maybe 12-20 mpg.
 

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Weight wise I should be under 3500.....
Make absolutely positive that you are when fully loaded. Trailer brakes are a MUST! Toyota says they are required/recommended for towing over 600 lbs. Depending on the trailer you may* require airbags in the rear springs to level the load. MPG will be dismal and do not tow in 5th gear.

* I say may because the Sport is stiffer sprung than the rest.
All of the towing I've done was boats with surge brakes on the trailer. I believe electric brakes with a controller in the cab would be the correct system for you. Dr Dyno is well informed on that type of braking system and can offer top notch advice.
 

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Agree with RTexasF. My experience with towing has been trailers with surge trailer brakes, or no trailer brakes at all on four wheel agricultural trailers. And yes, Dr. Dyno is an expert regarding controller electric trailer brakes.
 

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It certainly is very doable but you've got a project ahead before you do.

First either buy a trailer with electric brakes or have them installed. The ones I prefer are the Dexter self-adjusting type. Of course I put on a lot more miles than you likely will but with a lot of effort I converted the manual-adjust ones on my dyno trailer to self-adjusting last year.

The you'll need the wiring and a brake controller - a fun project. And of course the hitch receiver itself.

Your V6 will easily pull it practically as fast as you want to go but as mentioned and enclosed trailer especially a tall one will cut your fuel mileage in half or more. (Somewhere I posted the saga of our trip up the Dalton Highway in Alaska in my BIL's '08 V6 RAV4 towing a camper trailer. We got about 15 mpg averaging 55 mph. Only used 5th gear downhill.)
 
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anything over 100# of tongue weight will start to make the rear sag, even on the sport, and too much sag will make the tire inners wear out faster. so try to balance the load to prevent excesive sag or install airbags

I pull a 2300lbs 17 foot fiberglass ski boat with no trailer brakes, it does fine as long as you don't forget it's back there...

fuel economy is not just based on the weight, it's mostly wind drag, with my travel trailer it takes 20l/100km, with the boat it's about 12l/100km, and normally I do 9.5l/100km

consider installing a transmission cooler, even with the towing package that already includes one, if you plan on towing regularly
 

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I have a 14 ft Fiberglass enclosed with 2 Dexter axles & Hydraulic brakes / its big, I've only pulled it with a full size pickup...trucks are big, so they pull easy with the right tow vehicle.
- Check the Gross Weight on whatever you purchase

----------------

ADD:
Long Tru-Cool LPD Transmission Oil Cooler 4454 18,000 GVW
https://www.amazon.com/Long-Tru-Cool-Transmission-Cooler-4454/dp/B005XZXB1M

^^ Source: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/transmission-aisn-warner-340-series-transmissions-write-up-your-4-speed-automatic.325531/
This is how Low Pressure Drop technology works::
When Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) is cold it is viscous. The unique Tru-Cool design allows the colder, thicker ATF to flow more efficiently through two open bypass channels positioned at the top of the cooler. As operating temperatures increase, the ATF becomes hotter and thinner, It's then directed through the core where it is cooled. Tru-Cool's highly efficient cooling technology combines improved protection against lube failure with optimal heat transfer.
http://www.amazon.com/Long-Tru-Cool-Transmission-Cooler-4454/dp/B005XZXB1M
Long Tru-Cool Oil Coolers offer advanced cooling protection for many towing applications. The advanced technology out performs TUBE & FIN Designs, Delivers up to 15 times less flow restrictions, 30% more cooling delivers maximum heat transfer, Self-Regulating for maximum lube flow protection through start-up, varied temperatures and driving conditions, heavy loads and towing.
Here is Toyotas fluid flow guide ...Look at page 8 on this PDF http://www.toyotatundraforum.com/pdf/A750E.pdf
And here is a guy who recently installed a cooler correctly http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st...agram-pic.html

cooler and fan install http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/352071-my-trans-cooler-fan-install.html
 

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Beaumont67, Thanks very much for the info you just posted. This is exactly the kind of cooler I'm looking for on my RAV. It looks like you're 15 money-saving minutes away from me getting 25% more out of life! No wonder you were tracking that info.
 
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