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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Guys:


The rear ABS sensor on a 2WD is quite unique and not easily accessed like most. The Toyota service manual does not much more than confuse you with elaborate procedures, special tools, and diagrams that you can't understand. I thought I'd post this up for future reference since I'm sure someone else will run into this problem, I could not find anything here or on YouTube describing replacement. On mine the connector rotted off from salt intrusion. Initially I disconnected it and bead blasted the connector which worked for a while but soon one of the (tiny) male pins broke off all together requiring sensor and harness replacement.


The OE service info has you disassembling the entire rear of the car to access the connector in the back. It uses terms and labels I've never heard before and can't understand so I'll save you some grief. The connector is located under the panel where my finger is pointing, I didn't shoot a pic while it was apart. Remove this panel that I point to, and loosen the huge side panel to access and replace the harness.








This is the harness:





The rest of the harness replacement is very straight forward. See OE details here:


http://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0Toyota%20RAV4%20Repair%20Manual/Brake%20Control/Skid%20Control%20Sensor%20%28For%202WD%29/03700410.pdf



Now for the sensor, the complete bearing/hub assy must be removed for access:


Remove the wheel, caliper and caliper support, and rotor. It's a slip-off rotor. Support the cal assy with a hook from the control arm so it doesn't hang on the hose. On the back side of the hub, pull the 4 bolts closest to the center of the picture, those hold the hub to the knuckle. I don't know if this is a semi-press fit or if mine was just rusted together, but to knock the hub from the knuckle I had to install some longer bolts and use an air chisel to push the hub outward by hitting the heads of the longer bolts.





Here's the knuckle/park brake with the hub removed.





Once the hub is out, use a sharp chisel to work the sensor free from the hub. A brand new chisel wasn't sharp enough for mine, I had to put a knife edge on the chisel to get between the two. The OE says to use a big special puller, I don't think it would have worked on mine.








This is what the hub looks like with the sensor removed- the bearing is now exposed and the magnetic reluctor wheel is visible. The bearing is packed with white grease, kind of odd. There was plenty there, I didn't add any in fear it would react with the reluctor.








The OE sensor is $300+ with the harness, I chose to take a chance and buy aftermarket stuff. The sensor looked like a twin to the OEM sensor and the harness was made on the same assembly line I'm sure- exact right down to the paint stripe on the wire.





A bit of RTV keeps the water out of the bearing.





Yes, I used an unapproved installation device- a hole saw was the exact right diameter to push the sensor into the hub. A piece of tubing the right size would have been perfect but the hole saw was here.....


Reassemble and test drive, the lights go off within a quarter mile of the module seeing a clean signal, and I used Techstream to check the signal and clear the codes. Success! The lights are out.


I bought the sensor and harness separately off Ebay for about $70 each. Good luck in your replacement, and if this post helps you drop me a quick note to let me know it helped. bamacker (at) aol.com


:D
 

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Thanks Bruce, great write-up! I've done both rear sensors on my 4WD - soo much easier. This 2WD job certainly isn't for the timid but an experienced backyard mechanic could do it. Gotta love the hole saw "tool" hey whatever works.

I can only imagine and shudder at what a dealer would charge with parts & labor! :surprise
 

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Thanks Bruce, great write-up! I've done both rear sensors on my 4WD - soo much easier. This 2WD job certainly isn't for the timid but an experienced backyard mechanic could do it. Gotta love the hole saw "tool" hey whatever works.

I can only imagine and shudder at what a dealer would charge with parts & labor! :surprise
My quote today was $1073.61 :surprise
 

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Thanks

Thanks for instructions.

I did this three times yesterday and today on a Scion TC (which is pretty much the same vehicle, really). Got a cheapy Amazon bearing yesterday, and the sensor was bad out of box. Replaced it with a NAPA unit today, and did the other side for good measure.

I didn't have a slide hammer but had a crowbar with the right shape and size to put some pressure on using the break pivot as a brace, and with a bit of hammering on the bolts both came off readily. Slide hammer is probably the tool for the job, though!

After finding the bad sensor on the new unit I decided to remove the sensors from the old bearings. I just used a chisel and hammer and tapped them off using the dimples for purchase. Might have ruined them, I suppose, but they look OK.
 

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The rear hub is bolt in only, and no press fit. I had mine replaced today and after the bolts were removed, all was required to remove the hub assembly was a couple taps of a hammer!
 

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2007 Toyota rag 4 fwd 4cylinder
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hi i had changed my right rear sensor on my rav4 2007 fwd, and my son came and hooked up his computer to make sure everything was clear but my lights on my dash wont go off, how do i get them off
 

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You need to reset the Skid Control ECU codes using the 4-13 jumper method and tapping the brake pedal 8 times.
Described in the second paragraph and the one under the picture here: Check Engine Light/VSC & 4WD lights explained
 

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2007 Toyota rag 4 fwd 4cylinder
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Thank you for the help .just so all know I am a 51yr old woman who loves working on my car so I did the changing of my sensor by myself as I do all my car repair mostly unless electrical. But I enjoy . and am glad I found this site it has helped solo much Ty all
 
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