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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
[update: DIY Rear Differential fluid change :
http://www.rav4world.com/forums/99-4-3-mechanical/90542-rear-differential-transfer-case-gear-lube-3.html#post921323
http://www.rav4world.com/forums/99-4-3-mechanical/90542-rear-differential-transfer-case-gear-lube-2.html#post921106
]
[
Update: DIY Transfer Case fluid change:
http://www.rav4world.com/forums/99-4-3-mechanical/90542-rear-differential-transfer-case-gear-lube-3.html#post921385
]

[update: new pump
May be this pump would work better i.e. less messy, less waste:http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Filters/Mini-Fuel-Transfer-Pump/8466443.p
]
Dealer is quoting me about $105 + tax for this service.
Seems a bit steep given that the gear lube costs less than $10. I need just a liter for this job. I really think the fluid is fine but just doing the maintenance to keep warranty.

Would you use Canadian Tire brand Motomaster brand of 80w90 fluid ($7 a litre) ? I want to use AMSoil but seems to be a rarity in Ottawa.
I am waiting for an AMSOil dealer to get back to me. The Toyota dealers do not sell this gear lube by the quart/gallon since they buy it in bulk.

Would you recommend that I do the job myself. I have changed engine oil , coolant and tranmission fluid before on my Mazda6, just to give you an idea of my skill level.
 

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Rear end

You don't need synthetic hypoid, since the rear end is easily accessed use the specified grade, no higher. If 80/90 is specified at your operating temperature use that grade.

A note about going to thick, as in 90/110. Hypoid oils have to resist shearing and the thicker the oil as in more dense, the higher the number, these oils have a tendency to stick to the crown/pinion. But too high a grade the oil will try to travel, if vented it will go out the vent.

Ratings are done as with all oil by temperature and specified job of lubricating.

And it is cheap and easy, so replace it every 2 years, regardless of what the dealer, the book, or service guy states.

Crown /pinion are robust, but must be looked after and maintained. You will not regret looking after the many gear sets within the car.

Remember the front differential. ATF may be used and the front work harder than the rear since it is primary, it always is engaged. Check it out every year, like the auto transmission and transfer case.

Hypoid usually is in the rear and ATF in the front and transfer case, but be certain to use the proper oils in the proper locations.

And record the buying and using of this stuff to help prove a warranty needed case, if you do the work yourself or any non dealer location.
 

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I see page PP-65 of the 2006 repair manual says
Transfer oil 0.5 liters (0.5 US qts, 0.4 Imp. qts) API GL-5 SAE 75W-90

Yet page GF-45 says Oil grade:
GL-5
Viscosity:
SAE 80W-90
Standard capacity:
0.45 liter (0.48 US qts, 0.40 Imp. qts)


I think its like using 0W30 oil instead of 5W30, which is also OK. but I don't have a Toyota citation that says that.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So is 75W90 ok or not for keeping the warranty?

I did not realize the "differential fluid replacement", meant Front AND back fluid?

which is best document to show the fluids acceptable under warranty? I can't seem to be able to find this info in the owner's manual.

Thanks
 

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So is 75W90 ok or not for keeping the warranty?

I did not realize the "differential fluid replacement", meant Front AND back fluid?

which is best document to show the fluids acceptable under warranty? I can't seem to be able to find this info in the owner's manual.

Thanks
Look in section 6.1 of your Owner's Manual.

I would use the 75w-90, but I am not going to find a citation that you will feel comfortable with. Do what makes you comfortable.

Will Gear Lube Viscosity Differences Cause Problems?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
AMSOIL recommendations

The attachment shows the recommendations of AMSOIL.
AMSOIL Product Recommendations - 2008%7cTOYOTA%7cRAV4%7c4

I suppose since I see cold winters, I should choose "under 0F." :confused:

If I am right then, it seems like I can use 75W90 :) for both rear diff and transfer case.

Can someone confirm that my understanding is correct?

Thanks

Vani
 

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I changed both of my rav4 09 and 10 base 2.5L with canadian tire motomaster 80w90.
The old oil was thick, greenish black and the drain plug was full of black metal shavings that the little magnet couldn't hold anymore. I changed mine at around 18,000 kms thinking that it was too soon but i am glad i did because there will be extra metal shavings grinding with the gears which is not a good thing.
Theres also a sticker by the front transfer case drain plug area stated to use 85w. And the manual didn't mention this single #
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I was able to find the place in my manual concerning oil viscosity. (Section 8 ).
it does mention 80W-90 and nothing else.

i also found that if you do short trips and/or drive in winter, then you should change the oil every 2 years. I was aiming for every 4 years previously.

Since I do short trips AND drive in Canadian winter, so I will be changing my rear diff and transfer case oil every 2 years. i will also be using cheap Canadian Tire gear oil due to the short change interval.

I guess my search is over. Now gotta find some videos, diy instructions, ...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I changed both of my rav4 09 and 10 base 2.5L with canadian tire motomaster 80w90.
The old oil was thick, greenish black and the drain plug was full of black metal shavings that the little magnet couldn't hold anymore. I changed mine at around 18,000 kms thinking that it was too soon but i am glad i did because there will be extra metal shavings grinding with the gears which is not a good thing.
Theres also a sticker by the front transfer case drain plug area stated to use 85w. And the manual didn't mention this single #
How much time did it take to do the rear diff and transfer case change?
Did you need a special pump?
Did you use new seals/gaskets or just reused the old ones?
 

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How much time did it take to do the rear diff and transfer case change?
Did you need a special pump?
Did you use new seals/gaskets or just reused the old ones?
I didn't keep track of time but i say doing it the first time with no experience would take around 1 hour doing front and back. Doing it the 2nd and 3rd time will be easier and faster once you get the hang of it. The most time consuming part was putting oil back in because you do need some kind of special pump/tool, i found a clear plastic water bottle with a soft/rubber straw attach to the top, slowly squeeze the oil in until oil drips out from the filler hole. It works but very slow, i have to look for another way to pump it in faster.

Don't need new washer/seals/gaskets because they use a metal washer which you can re-use again & again. (but if it was rubber washer or crushed washer, i'll put a new one in)

The drain/fill bolt takes a 10mm hex, you can do it without jacking the car up but if you want more room, you can always put some wood under the front/rear tires to make it a little higher.

One more thing, make sure your 10mm hex and ratchet can "REACH" & "LOOSEN" the filler plug before you drain any oil out. Especially the front filler plug, space there is very tight to fit a rachet with hex.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
My Rav is at 40,000 km and just 4 years old.

Do you have pics/resource you could point me to? I was not very lucky in my search yesterday.

BTW, is Transfer Case = Front Differential.I am seeing different terms in the Internet.

Thanks again
 

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My Rav is at 40,000 km and just 4 years old.

Do you have pics/resource you could point me to? I was not very lucky in my search yesterday.

BTW, is Transfer Case = Front Differential.I am seeing different terms in the Internet.

Thanks again
I dont have any pictures but on both of mine 2.5 L, the rear drain plug points towards the left(driverside) and the filler plug points towards the right(passenger side) the front drain plug points towards the ground and the filler plug points towards the front(hood). Again those locations are for a 2.5L so not sure about the 2.4L or the V6.

I am also confused about the terms but i think the front is transfer case and the back is rear diff(correct me if i am wrong)
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I got 2 Litres of 80W-90 from Canadian Tire. I also got a hand pump to get the gear lube in.

I will change the fluid this weekend.


1 litre should be enough but it was cheap. So I got 2 bottles in case of a spill or other mishap.
 

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Yeah, those are the same one i use, i was going to say 1 bottle is enough for both front and back but it doesnt hurt to get a 2nd one for back up just incase and they are only $6.99 a bottle. You have a picture of the pump too and let us know how it works. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Remember the front differential. ATF may be used and the front work harder than the rear since it is primary, it always is engaged. Check it out every year, like the auto transmission and transfer case.

Hypoid usually is in the rear and ATF in the front and transfer case, but be certain to use the proper oils in the proper locations.

And record the buying and using of this stuff to help prove a warranty needed case, if you do the work yourself or any non dealer location.
I did not know the 4.3 Rav4 4WD has a front diffential or is it part of the transmission? I have found pictures of transfer case and rear differential.
 

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Originally Posted by ARK
Remember the front differential. ATF may be used and the front work harder than the rear since it is primary, it always is engaged. Check it out every year, like the auto transmission and transfer case.

Hypoid usually is in the rear and ATF in the front and transfer case, but be certain to use the proper oils in the proper locations.

And record the buying and using of this stuff to help prove a warranty needed case, if you do the work yourself or any non dealer location.



I did not know the 4.3 Rav4 4WD has a front diffential or is it part of the transmission? I have found pictures of transfer case and rear differential.
The info ARK posted is obviously incorrect. Hypoid oil goes in rear diff AND transfer case. The front diff is combined with transmission as transaxle and uses ATF (no hypoid gears there).

BTW, 75W90 would be OK in Canada. Here in south US I chose to go with SAE90 (above the 0 F specification). The OEM oil was in good condition and little metal wear at 22,000 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I was able to change the lube for the rear differential. I'll post pics later on this. I went ahead and did an engine oil change too.

I was NOT able to find the transfer case.
I am posting a pic of what I think if the transfer case; it is joined to the rear differential but I can't find the filler plug and drain bolt as shown in my previous post.

Do i need to remove the bolts shown in the attachment in order to see the plug and the drain?:shrug:
 

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