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Good information.....I was just under my Rav changing the tranny fluid a few days ago and saw a drain bolt which I now know is my transfer case gear box. I've never changed that fluid yet and I've got 105,000 kms so I guess I'm due! :)


Since my rear diff was replaced already, I should be good for fluid there but the front will get done soon.
I'll post a few pics of the wooden ramps I made for oil undercoating when I do the job. Very easy to work underneath it when using them.
 

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Changed the front and rear diff fluid today. I used motomaster synthetic gear case oil 75w90.
The front fill hole was easy to access with an allen key and the fluid wasn't too bad looking after draining. The magnet was full though with black crap. Glad I got in there.
The rear fill hole was a bi!ch to get at! I had to remove the two bolts where the muffler and tail pipe are connected to move the tail pipe out of the way. They came off easy.
It seemed the rear diff took more fluid than the front. Either way , I filled them until fluid started to come out the fill hole.
I added a few pics of my wooden ramps I made. I used rough 2x10 lumber and re-enforced them underneath. They are lots strong, I think I could drive a school bus on these! :)
 

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Getting ready to do this job this weekend. Got a 5 litre jug of Motomaster 80W90 conventional gear oil (made by Shell Canada). Going to have to look into finding a decent pump. Would a turkey baster work to fill the cases?
 

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Getting ready to do this job this weekend. Got a 5 litre jug of Motomaster 80W90 conventional gear oil (made by Shell Canada). Going to have to look into finding a decent pump. Would a turkey baster work to fill the cases?
Five litres...you do know the rear diff and transfer case only take about 1/2 litre each, right?

As for turkey baster, you are in for a real mess if you try it. The angle of the dangle is limited, lol. It's worth it to invest <$10 in a little fluid pump like this one, pretty common at auto parts stores:
 

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Five litres...you do know the rear diff and transfer case only take about 1/2 litre each, right?

As for turkey baster, you are in for a real mess if you try it. The angle of the dangle is limited, lol. It's worth it to invest <$10 in a little fluid pump like this one, pretty common at auto parts stores:
Yes, I'm aware of the amount needed. The five litre jug was more cost efficient than buying the smaller 1 quart containers. No biggie, I've got enough for 5 differential oil changes :laugh. I kind of figured the turkey baster would be a no-go. I'll get a proper pump.
 

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Yes, I'm aware of the amount needed. The five litre jug was more cost efficient than buying the smaller 1 quart containers. No biggie, I've got enough for 5 differential oil changes :laugh.
Copy that! Just making sure as some folks might be thinking of the transaxle/front diff service which does use about 5 litres--and ATF, not the gear oil.

Enjoy your chores! I'm about ready to do mine again before end of summer (rear diff and transfer) and use the 75w-90 Valvoline synth. It should confirm the drain and fill bolts will be easier to remove since I properly torqued them on my first go-around.
 

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Done. Although that was an easy task, a couple of observations:

1. My RAV has very low mileage (13,200 kms), but the rear diff fluid was dark grey and gross. Lots of gunk on the metallic plug. As others have noted, the front fluid was less dirty.

2. I don't know if anyone has mentioned this yet, but gear oil smells disgusting. Whether it's the used oil or the fresh stuff, plug your nose. It actually made me a little sick to my stomach.
 

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ok, a little write-up on the rear differential fluid change
1. get the right fluid - 80W90. It takes between 0.45 and 0.55 litres. My old fluid measured about 0.5L.
2. You will need a wrench (torque wrench recommended but you can get away with simply aligning marks), some kind of pump or flexible tube attached to a bottle, HEX 10 , metal washers (I did not replace, hence I don't know the part number)
3. The rear diff is just across the rear tires. The filler bolt is on the other side of the drain bolt. They might be a little rusted. Use a little penetrating oil and a push on the wrench. Before putting penetrating oil, check if the area around the bolts are dry. Otherwise you have a leak and cannot re-use the metal washers. I actually lifted the rear end just to the bolts loose and then put the car level on the ground for doing the actual drain and fill.
4. Acertain yourself that the filler bolt can come out before draining fluid. Otherwise, you got a RAV that you cannot use.
5. With the car level, take filler bolt out. take drain bolt out. My fluid was dark green almost black with fine metal fillings on the magnetised drain bolt. Collect the fluid and check if it falls between the 0.45 - 0.55L that was supposed to be there.
6. Using my pump, i added 100 ml which I let drain just to take out any fluid that might have pooled inside. This step is not required.
7. Clean your drain bolt. Make sure the washer is there when you put in on. The washer could also stay stuck to the car like it happened with me. Torque the drain bolt back.(39 Nm)
8. add enough fluid through the filler hole until it starts to overflow. Let the excess flow out for 5 min. The fluid is thick so give it time to flow out. ( I actually mesured how much I put in and it was between 0.5 and 0.55 L)
9. Clean your filler bolt, put a 2 drops of gear lube on the threads (so thread does not seize) and torque it back on (39 Nm).

You're done! Note: I have other pics in the first 2 pages of the thread which I have not included here

I wil be doing this fluid change every 2 years.


Thanks for the pics. Did you find these were seized at all? I hate plugs that are hex... always seem to strip easily
 

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Be careful not to strip the hex bolt head. Mine stripped and had to buy a New one. Used PB blaster and all.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


that's what worries me. hex bolt heads are always so weak... 85k on this car (bought used) and I doubt it's been done once. hopefully things come out fairly easily, I've spotted a decent amount of surface rust here and there on the undercarriage
 

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Just wondering since most people seem to just pump in fluid till it starts flowing out, how much are they really putting in?This is how I was shown years ago.I drained and measured mine and it came out to exactly .5qts per the maual so that is what I put in.None really flowed out when I removed the fill hose.thanks
 

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Just wondering since most people seem to just pump in fluid till it starts flowing out, how much are they really putting in?This is how I was shown years ago.I drained and measured mine and it came out to exactly .5qts per the maual so that is what I put in.None really flowed out when I removed the fill hose.thanks
The service manual says the spec is 0 to 5mm from the lip of the fill plug, when checked with vehicle level. I used slightly more than .5-quart measured, and then a little bit drained out when I leveled the car. Could have tried to hit exactly .5-quart on the refill, but with some in the hose and pump, hard to get it exact--easier just to fill and let drain to hit the 0-mm end of the spec.
 

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just wanted to add, I had no problems with the hex bolts here!
 

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With so many different type if gear oils, it gets rather confusing. Some uyse Valvoline, Mobil 1, Royal Purple, etc....I'm still trying to decide which would best fit my application.
My rav4 get about 5k yr, standard driving. No towing.. But the diff and transfer oil has never been changed out. It now sat at 50,000 miles. I would like to replace it, to know it was done..
Being in Indiana, we get all kind of weathers.

So what would be a good recommendation of brand to cover all that? Beside oem..
 

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just did both of those recently myself - can't go wrong with amsoil or red line. I used amsoil but I prefer red line
 
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