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I would have to order some redline oil. Actually, majority of the brands I would have to order. Live too far away from city..

Do you guys buy 2 QTS to be safe?
 

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I would have to order some redline oil. Actually, majority of the brands I would have to order. Live too far away from city..

Do you guys buy 2 QTS to be safe?


for the diff or the t-case? anyway I think I bought 3 since they all use the same fluid, and I use it in other cars as well
 

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for the diff or the t-case? anyway I think I bought 3 since they all use the same fluid, and I use it in other cars as well

Both.
I went ahead and bought 2 qts to be safe.. Will arrive tomorrow. I'm hoping to get it done by Sunday.

Update:
our 2010 base have 52k currently.
Finished both fluid exchanged today. Pretty easy and straightforward.. Old fluid was pretty dark. Really dark for the rear diff compare to transfer case fluid..
This is the transfer case fluid vs new redline 75w90. Did not take photo of rear diff. The fluid came out look dark like pencil lead.
 

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After looking for more than 30 min I figured it was hidden by the plastic engine cover.
Thanks for confirming; I will give it a try tomorrow.

The liquid from the rear differential was black with fine metal fillings on magnetic bolt.
0.5 L came out. So I know there was no leak and the surroundings of the bolts were dry.

The torque on the bolt and drain is very low. I marked them with a white paint so that I knew exactly when to stop tightening.

I will post some pics later.
I have front drive, do i have transfer case also.
Mercedes E clase Rear wheel drive does not have transfer only 4matic/4 wheel drive that has transfer case.

Thanks,
 

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Both.
I went ahead and bought 2 qts to be safe.. Will arrive tomorrow. I'm hoping to get it done by Sunday.

Update:
our 2010 base have 52k currently.
Finished both fluid exchanged today. Pretty easy and straightforward.. Old fluid was pretty dark. Really dark for the rear diff compare to transfer case fluid..
This is the transfer case fluid vs new redline 75w90. Did not take photo of rear diff. The fluid came out look dark like pencil lead.
I did my fluids at 30K and found the same thing. Very dark. I then did them again at 50K, and found that the fluid looked brand new. I think this is due to break in wear related debris. And Toyota must use the cheapest oils they can from the factory. I feel that once you get a quality synthetic in the t-case, and diff you don't have to worry about them again.
 

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It's been a couple years since I changed the factory-fill rear diff and transfer case oil and I wanted to see the condition of the oil this time around. When I changed it the first time, the rear oil came out black and gross and the front was pretty clean. I loosened the drain plug on the rear case and this time the oil came very clean and still golden in color. Put the plug back in and just topped up what cam out.
No need for a full change and I'm not even checking the front. Obviously, there is a lot of break-in occurring on the factory-fill and it is a good idea to get that oil out asap.
 

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Almost a year old thread to the day, impressive.

Mine was the opposite. Transfer case was dark, differential case was still honey colored more or less.
 

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I attempted to change the gear oil myself probably in the spring time frame, even had the vehicle on all 4 jack stands, but I couldn't reach/loosen the filler plugs on either one. Fast forward to today, I dropped the vehicle off at a local shop near work, told them to use the Valvoline Synthetic 75W90 gear oil I bought, and picked it up this afternoon after paying only $20. The mechanic said the oil out of the transfer case was definitely nastier than the rear differential. Saved me a lot of hassle.
 

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Tips removing Transfer Case Fill Bolt & Rear Differential Fill Bolt

I attempted to change the gear oil myself probably in the spring time frame, even had the vehicle on all 4 jack stands, but I couldn't reach/loosen the filler plugs on either one. Fast forward to today, I dropped the vehicle off at a local shop near work, told them to use the Valvoline Synthetic 75W90 gear oil I bought, and picked it up this afternoon after paying only $20. The mechanic said the oil out of the transfer case was definitely nastier than the rear differential. Saved me a lot of hassle.
The problem with the transfer case fill bolt is that there is not enough room to fit a regular allen hex socket in due to the way the transfer case housing is sticking out. To get to the fill bolt you need use a allen hex key cut down to 1/2 inch wide to reach that confine work space using also a tube to get some torque to break the bolt loose.

For the rear differential fill bolt there is the problem with the exhaust pipe in the way. You need a 2 inch socket extension to clear over the exhaust pipe. In areas where there is salt used in winter to melt snow the fill bolt hex hole will be rusted so you need to hammer the socket in to clear the hole of rust. If you do not hammer the socket into the fill bolt hole you will surely strip the bolt head. Same with the drain plug which will have even more rust since it is lower to the ground.

Hope this will help others that struggle with this.
 

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You are correct on the transfer case since I tried to insert the 10mm socket in, but there was just no room. I was able to reach the rear differential plug, but since it didn't turn, I stopped and didn't want to damage it. I wanted to try again, but ultimately found a shop to remove and replace instead, since it was within walking distance to/from work.
 

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Hi,
I know this is an old thread but just wanted to thank everyone on the instruction how to replace the transfer case/differential fluid.

just replaced our rear differential, the hardest part I found is removing the filler bolt as there's no space for it :( but as suggested using a 2 inch socket extension really work :D

Will be scheduling the transfer case fluid replacement tomorrow unless the Rear sway link we ordered come in, then that will be the first :D

also planning to replace the front axle left seal and transmission fluid. still debating if I'm going to drop the pan and replace the filter. I talked to the dealership parts and they said that the transmission filter/strainer does not need to be replaced, just drain and fill. I will post a question on the other post (Transmission filter replacement how's the third party compared to the original) :D

Thank you again.
 

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Hi,
I know this is an old thread but just wanted to thank everyone on the instruction how to replace the transfer case/differential fluid.

just replaced our rear differential, the hardest part I found is removing the filler bolt as there's no space for it :( but as suggested using a 2 inch socket extension really work :D

Will be scheduling the transfer case fluid replacement tomorrow unless the Rear sway link we ordered come in, then that will be the first :D

also planning to replace the front axle left seal and transmission fluid. still debating if I'm going to drop the pan and replace the filter. I talked to the dealership parts and they said that the transmission filter/strainer does not need to be replaced, just drain and fill. I will post a question on the other post (Transmission filter replacement how's the third party compared to the original) :D

Thank you again.

The filter on the 4 cylinder has a strainer unlike the V6. Don't throw away that filter because it is worth $50 unlike the cheaper price in the US.
Dropping the pan is a lot of work but there should be caution if you are doing this. The pan bolts have fine threads and can snap easily. You should not use any power tools removing or installing the pan bolts. A nut driver should be used to ensure you do not over torque these bolts. I used a lot of penetrating oil when removing the pan bolts very slowly. Also blue thread locker should be used. I had to torque them tighter the next day. I am not sure if it is worth dropping the pan on a 4 cylinder but on my V6 there was not that much crud. Maybe because it was because I had low mileage.
 

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Thanks for the feedback. Leaning to just do a drain and fill. Saw the post on removing the rest of dirty transmission fluid via the return hose. Thinking of doing that with just drain and fill without opening. At least able to replace most of the dirty fluid.

Still debating if I'm going to tackle the axle seal or just have someone do it. Haha.

Thanks again.
 

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Thanks for the feedback. Leaning to just do a drain and fill. Saw the post on removing the rest of dirty transmission fluid via the return hose. Thinking of doing that with just drain and fill without opening. At least able to replace most of the dirty fluid.

Still debating if I'm going to tackle the axle seal or just have someone do it. Haha.

Thanks again.

I did the return line flush. If you have low mileage from the last transmission oil change and the oil is not burnt I say this is a great way to go. The oil will come out like brand new and stay clean for a very long time.
 

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Don't remember when or if the transmission fluid was changed lol. The report I got from the dealer maintenance service the other day is they recommended to drain and fill as the fluid is dirty lol
 

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Don't remember when or if the transmission fluid was changed lol. The report I got from the dealer maintenance service the other day is they recommended to drain and fill as the fluid is dirty lol

If the transmission oil have a reddish pink (or brownish pink) in it then it is fine to do a flush. Wipe the oil on a paper towel and the stain will show up better.
 

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Just finished the transfer case Fluid replacement, the fluid is not as bad as the rear differential. The rear differential is more dark brown to blackish :D the transfer case fluid is more on the light to dark brown.

We are about to do the rear sway link as we received the parts from Amazon. When we opened the package, there's only one hahah :D Amazon separated the order and ship one that is already available :) will wait for the other one to do it at the same time.

for the transmission oi, it's more dark brown to black already. You don't even notice the reddish or brownish pink anymore :D so it's really time to replace it. We removed the plastic cover on the front so I can have more visibility on the leak. it seems to be leaking for some time and we just didn't notice it until we have the stain on the garage floor as the oil I'm assuming saturated the plastic cover and dripped :(. Sprayed the Transaxle with Brake cleaner to clean up the dirt and will monitor where the link is coming from after driving it for a while. Hopefully the dealership diagnostic is correct that the leak is coming from the Axle LH as you can't even see where it's coming from because of all the dirt and grime hahaha :D

So we are good for another 50K to 100K for the transfer Case and Differential Fluids.

Wish us luck..
 

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I know this is an old thread, but like me there is always somebody new doing the rear axle, and transfer case drain/refill. So here's my take as of 9/11/2019: I went with the Toyota recommended 80-90 conventional gear oil. I used Valvoline 1qt. container, and an Atwood gear oil pump from Walmart. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Attwood-Gear-Lube-Pump/16351021 which worked perfectly, and only cost $4.87. The only issue with it is the pick-up tube does not reach all the way to the bottom of the gear oil bottle. I fixed that issue by getting a piece of vinyl tubing that fits the outside of the pump where the supplied pick-up tube goes. This allowed me to reach all the way to the bottom of the bottle. This little pump even has a cap that screws onto the output end fitting which helps keep oil from leaking out of the tubing when you done pumping.

I didn't have any problem removing any of the 4 plugs. I used a 3/8" drive 10mm hex socket on a 3/8" ratchet with a 2ft cheater pipe over the ratchet handle to break the plugs free. I was able to use the socket on the 3/8"ratchet on the one plug that is has a tight clearance where others needed to use a cut off hex wrench. Even my 3/8" torque wrench fit the tight spot. I bought new crush washers for all the plugs from a Toyota dealer. I highly recommend replacing the crush washers with new ones even though you may be able to reuse the old ones. They were $1.64ea. Cheap insurance IMO. Part # 12157-10010. All 4 plugs use the same crush washer.

In conclusion: This job turned out to be easier than I originally thought. I was lucky enough to have the use of a friends vehicle hoist which makes this job much easier than using jack stands and "flatbacking" the wrenching. I was able to do both fills with one qt. of oil although I bought two in case I spilled some which is probably a good idea as you never know. If you don't have a 3/8" dr. 10 mm hex socket, Home Depot has a cheap one. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-8-in-Drive-10-mm-Hex-Bit-Socket-H3DHBS10MM/202913545

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