I would have to order some redline oil. Actually, majority of the brands I would have to order. Live too far away from city..
Do you guys buy 2 QTS to be safe?
for the diff or the t-case? anyway I think I bought 3 since they all use the same fluid, and I use it in other cars as well
I have front drive, do i have transfer case also.After looking for more than 30 min I figured it was hidden by the plastic engine cover.
Thanks for confirming; I will give it a try tomorrow.
The liquid from the rear differential was black with fine metal fillings on magnetic bolt.
0.5 L came out. So I know there was no leak and the surroundings of the bolts were dry.
The torque on the bolt and drain is very low. I marked them with a white paint so that I knew exactly when to stop tightening.
I will post some pics later.
I did my fluids at 30K and found the same thing. Very dark. I then did them again at 50K, and found that the fluid looked brand new. I think this is due to break in wear related debris. And Toyota must use the cheapest oils they can from the factory. I feel that once you get a quality synthetic in the t-case, and diff you don't have to worry about them again.Both.
I went ahead and bought 2 qts to be safe.. Will arrive tomorrow. I'm hoping to get it done by Sunday.
our 2010 base have 52k currently.
Finished both fluid exchanged today. Pretty easy and straightforward.. Old fluid was pretty dark. Really dark for the rear diff compare to transfer case fluid..
This is the transfer case fluid vs new redline 75w90. Did not take photo of rear diff. The fluid came out look dark like pencil lead.
The problem with the transfer case fill bolt is that there is not enough room to fit a regular allen hex socket in due to the way the transfer case housing is sticking out. To get to the fill bolt you need use a allen hex key cut down to 1/2 inch wide to reach that confine work space using also a tube to get some torque to break the bolt loose.I attempted to change the gear oil myself probably in the spring time frame, even had the vehicle on all 4 jack stands, but I couldn't reach/loosen the filler plugs on either one. Fast forward to today, I dropped the vehicle off at a local shop near work, told them to use the Valvoline Synthetic 75W90 gear oil I bought, and picked it up this afternoon after paying only $20. The mechanic said the oil out of the transfer case was definitely nastier than the rear differential. Saved me a lot of hassle.
I know this is an old thread but just wanted to thank everyone on the instruction how to replace the transfer case/differential fluid.
just replaced our rear differential, the hardest part I found is removing the filler bolt as there's no space for it but as suggested using a 2 inch socket extension really work
Will be scheduling the transfer case fluid replacement tomorrow unless the Rear sway link we ordered come in, then that will be the first
also planning to replace the front axle left seal and transmission fluid. still debating if I'm going to drop the pan and replace the filter. I talked to the dealership parts and they said that the transmission filter/strainer does not need to be replaced, just drain and fill. I will post a question on the other post (Transmission filter replacement how's the third party compared to the original)
Thank you again.
Thanks for the feedback. Leaning to just do a drain and fill. Saw the post on removing the rest of dirty transmission fluid via the return hose. Thinking of doing that with just drain and fill without opening. At least able to replace most of the dirty fluid.
Still debating if I'm going to tackle the axle seal or just have someone do it. Haha.
Don't remember when or if the transmission fluid was changed lol. The report I got from the dealer maintenance service the other day is they recommended to drain and fill as the fluid is dirty lol