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Saturday, some arse cut in front of me a little too closely and smashed my passenger side fender and bumper. (Not happy. The car is only five weeks old!) Thankfully, I have dash-cam video that not only shows the collision, (I refuse to call it an 'accident', because it was NOT an accident, his actions were deliberate), but my speed, date, time, and lat/long location; all satellite provided. That data, along with the video, shows who cased the collision.

What I would like to ask, what would the quality of a dash-cam video pointing out the rear window look like. The rear windows of the 4.4 RAVs are 'tinted'. It may be too dim to record worthwhile video.

If it could work, I'll see about installing a 'cigarette lighter' socket in the rear storage compartment to tap into for power. Pretty sure the dash-cam requires 5 volts, but would have to measure to be sure. Might be possible to tap off of the cyclops brake light.
 

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2008 RAV4 Limited V6
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A lot of people have a rear-facing dash cam. My wife wants me to install one in the RAV just like I have up front. The tinting of the glass has little effect, and you can always adjust the EV level on the camera to compensate. My RAV has a convenient 12V power jack in the rear cargo area, unfortunately, Toyota decided to do away with it in the 4.4 gen. I don't think powering it from the center brake light would be a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't think powering it from the center brake light would be a good idea.
Thanks for the info. Good to know tinting has minimal effect.

How about tapping into one of the existing outlets in the center console? Would have to run a wire to the rear, but I need to do that anyway when I install my trailer harness wiring.

I may be stupid and ignorant here, but just run a single, hot red wire and tap into any screw in the rear for the ground. Correct?
 

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2008 RAV4 Limited V6
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I may be stupid and ignorant here, but just run a single, hot red wire and tap into any screw in the rear for the ground. Correct?
There's a big difference between ignorant and stupid. Ignorance can be fixed by education. You can't fix stupid!! :smile

Yes, running a single hot wire to the rear should work fine. You want it to be switched by the ignition, not hot all the time.
 

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There's a big difference between ignorant and stupid. Ignorance can be fixed by education. You can't fix stupid!! :smile

Yes, running a single hot wire to the rear should work fine. You want it to be switched by the ignition, not hot all the time.
Wouldn't it be better to have it on all the time and have the dash cam set to park mode? With park mode your dash cam turns on and starts recording if some one were to hit you while your vehicle is parked.
 

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Inside the power plug is a circuit board. You don't need a power socket to plug it into. Just find something that is hot with the key on, and connect the circuit board to that. The cable to the camera is usually really long, so needing more cable shouldn't be an issue. Best way to check the quality is to point your existing camera out the rear window like you want, and run the cable temporarily to the power adapter you are currently using. Check both day and night quality.
 

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Wouldn't it be better to have it on all the time and have the dash cam set to park mode? With park mode your dash cam turns on and starts recording if some one were to hit you while your vehicle is parked.
Very few actually work properly in "G-Shock" or "Motion" mode.
 

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Wouldn't it be better to have it on all the time and have the dash cam set to park mode? With park mode your dash cam turns on and starts recording if some one were to hit you while your vehicle is parked.
It'll drain the car's battery if you don't drive for a few days. Park mode means it'll be recording all the time. Motion detect mode will activate camera when it see's motion but camera is still always on standby. Will have to install some protection to prevent battery drain to a certain voltage so your car still have power to start.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Very few actually work properly in "G-Shock" or "Motion" mode.
Mine is a Garmin Dash Cam 20, and it works quite well in G-Shock mode. Probably too well because often when I go over a rough patch in a turn on the mountain road I travel, it will beep and protect the currently recorded video. They can be "calibrated" for sensitivity, but I haven't bothered. The collision on Saturday, even though it was a sideswipe/cut-me-off hit activated the video protection mode.

Garmin makes a lower-cost dash-cam, the model 10. The major difference is that the 10 does not record GPS data, just video. At first, I wondered if I made a mistake getting the 20, because if I didn't 'toe the line', the video has speed data overlain onto the video and could possibly come back to bite me.

In the case of Saturday, I am most thankful that I did get the 20 with the recorded GPS data. It gave the exact time of the collision, to the second; and when viewed frame-by-frame, also shows that I was slowing down at the time. They can't come back and say that I speeded up into him, thereby causing the collision.

My main reason for wanting a rearward facing camera is that I would be able to record, in this particular episode, the truck tailgating me and driving in an aggressive manner further back down the road behind me. Just more ammunition to protect one's self.
 

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I have one of these:-

Blackvue Accessories : Power Magic Pro - Power Controller

The Power Magic Pro is a device that automatically cuts the power to the BlackVue Drive Recorder
according to the configured voltage – the power is cut if the voltage drops below the configured value,
or the configured timer – the power is cut if the configured time has elapsed, to prevent the battery
of the vehicle being discharged.
 
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