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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Help! I replaced my alternator and after installing the new one the car cranks over but won’t start. The battery was checked and Is good, checked the fuses and they are good. Not sure what would be going on. Thank you
 

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Did you disconnect the battery before replacing the alternator? If not, I can almost guarantee you blew a fuse. The alternator fuse is a huge PITA to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Help! I replaced my alternator and after installing the new one the car cranks over but won’t start. The battery was checked and Is good, checked the fuses and they are good. Not sure what would be going on. Thank you
Yes the battery was disconnected before the replacement. I’ve checked all the fuses and they are good. It’s cranks over but won’t start. I was thinking the anti theft in the car? Or maybe my immobilizer?
 

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Do you have any codes stored that you can read? Engine light on? (do you have a code reader?)
Did you reconnect all connectors?
The alternator change shouldn't prevent the engine from starting. Maybe anti theft or immobilizer like you're thinking?
Does your security light go out when your key is in the ignition?
Did you try using your auto start if you have one?
Check your ground cable off your battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes the battery was disconnected before the replacement. I’ve checked all the fuses and they are good. It’s cranks over but won’t start. I was thinking the anti theft in the car? Or maybe my immobilizer?
On
Help! I replaced my alternator and after installing the new one the car cranks over but won’t start. The battery was checked and Is good, checked the fuses and they are good. Not sure what would be going on. Thank you
The check engine light has been on. I’m not sure if it’s throwing a different code now or not. I have to way to check it. I checked the security light and it’s doing what it’s suppose to be doing. I did check the battery terminals and they are tight.
 

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Wait. Your SECURITY light is ON? It should normally be flashing, then go out when the key is inserted. If not, the immobilizer won’t let it start.
 

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Give more details on year and engine size. I can only give a hail mary that it is a V6 and the crank sensor wire was damaged when the ALT was replaced...
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Give more details on year and engine size. I can only give a hail mary that it is a V6 and the crank sensor wire was damaged when the ALT was replaced...
Oh sorry. It’s a 2006 Toyota RAV4 v6 3.5 will the crank sensor make it seem like it’s not getting fuel? We can’t hear the fuel pump turn on when trying to turn the car on.
 

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Oh sorry. It’s a 2006 Toyota RAV4 v6 3.5 will the crank sensor make it seem like it’s not getting fuel? We can’t hear the fuel pump turn on when trying to turn the car on.
Yes. I will bet that that the wires to the crank sensor are the issue when the ALT was replaced. Crank sensor wires are on the bracket to the ALT. on the lower side. I have seen this many times. There was a post just the other day on this.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes. I will bet that that the wires to the crank sensor are the issue when the ALT was replaced. Crank sensor wires are on the bracket to the ALT. on the lower side. I have seen this many times. There was a post just the other day on this.
I bet your right! now that you mentioned it and I watched a you tube video that seemed to be the issues. That’s a easier and cheaper way before buying a new fuel pump.
 

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I would guess you have no power since your fuel pump isn't starting and that equals no spark. You may have blown a fuse or fusible link somewhere and have to try to find it with some help.
A cheap code reader might be helpful. They are less than $50
Re route your steps in changing the alternator in hoping to find a loose or missed connector, then source some help in finding the cause. Electrical isn't easy to diagnose for most of us.
I'm not aware of a fuel shut off option.

Good luck
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I would guess you have no power since your fuel pump isn't starting and that equals no spark. You may have blown a fuse or fusible link somewhere and have to try to find it with some help.
A cheap code reader might be helpful. They are less than $50
Re route your steps in changing the alternator in hoping to find a loose or missed connector, then source some help in finding the cause. Electrical isn't easy to diagnose for most of us.
I'm not aware of a fuel shut off option.

Good luck
looks like it’s a fuel pump and was just a Coincidence that the fuel pump went out at the same time
 

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This is from an old post same model year same engine same circumstance: "A friend with a scanner gave me a hand and it ended up being the wire that runs to the Crank Shaft Location sensor. The wire is tied to one of the brackets that holds this alternator in place. It runs behind the alternator and compressor tight to the engine. The heat must have made he wire brittle because in the process of removing or installing the alternator, one of the two wires broke. I never even disconnected it from the bracket. After three hours of dis-assembling and re-assembling the front end of the car again, we were able to repair the wire. Now it starts like a champ". May be worth a look.

Besides that double check that either the 120 amp or 140 amp alternator fuse (depending on if you have a tow package or not) is not blown. It powers both the alternator and starter system and commonly blows when the battery cables are swapped.
 
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