[eodgator]

Well, I had a line fail from the E250F 4x4 5 speed manual transmission to the oil cooler, dumped the fluid and toasted the transmission. I had just replaced every hose under the hood with the exception of those two hoses... only because I had to order them and they had not been delivered yet. Oh well!!

Parts:
Used low mileage E250F Transmission - as a surprise bonus it came with the transfer case from jandjusedmotors.com
Flywheel - AMS AUTOMOTIVE 167132 from RockAuto.com
Transmission Mount - ANCHOR 9026 from RockAuto.com
Clutch Hydraulic Hose - CENTRIC 15144029 (151.44029) from RockAuto.com
Clutch Kit - BAHNHOF RFX RACING 151860475887 from eBay autoparts-express
Rear Engine Seal - from Discount Auto
Transmission Seals - from Discount Auto
Engine Expansion Plugs - from Discount Auto

 

[eodgator]

If anyone has any suggestions as to other things I should do while I have the engine out, let me know.

 

[eodgator]

I am going to thoroughly clean and perform corrosion control in the engine compartment. Planning on installing insulation on the firewall and underhood to deaden the road noise and keep the passenger compartment cooler.

 

[Blogson]

It's too bad that you have to go through all of that because of the failure of a comparatively inexpensive part, but which you had ordered. Good luck and hopefully it will go well!

 

[ashtonybb]

oh yeah, keep us posted bruh! i want to see it. if you have photos and videos, right on!

 

[Ken Allistone]

Remove the VSV for the EGR from the back of the block, then mount it on the firewall, I have mine next to the vsv's for the diff lock.
So much easier to get at if you ever need to change it.
The only other thing on the back of the block that's hard to get at is the knock sensor.
If I think of anything else I'll let you know.
Good luck, I'm looking forward to reading how you get on, oh one other thing, when you get the subframe/'K' frame out, clean it and check it over carefully, they rust, I had mine welded and then hot zinc plated before I gave it a couple of coats of special rust preventative paint. Be sure to torque the bolts correctly when you refit it too.
It's also going to be easy to get at the steering rack and pump, check them over for leaks and wear, much easier than doing it with the subframe back on. You may need to fit new sway bar rubber mounts and drop links too.

 

[eodgator]

Thanks for the info Ken, I'll take a look at all that. Checking CV joints and boots, replacing anything questionable. I also noticed a leak from the rear differential so I guess I'll be taking a look at that too. Also replacing all the engine mounts.
I'll also take pictures, maybe try my hand at a little video here and there.

 

[LeoGeo]

That's horrible to have happen! Were you just driving along and one of the hoses gave way? With plastic skid plate on and everything? I'm a little worried about mine now, makes me want to drop the $170 on a new pair of factory hoses...

Best of luck with the swap!

 

[eodgator]

LeoGen: The hoses were probably original and one just blew out, pumping all the oil out and grinding the transmission to bits. If, you still have the factory hoses on a 4.1 RAV4, yes I would highly recommend replacing them or face spending about $800 for a used tranny and about $500 in misc parts.

 

[eodgator]

Not sure if all of those transmission seals are necessary, but they are inexpensive and if they can be replaced without overhauling the transmission I will replace them.
Replacing all the motor mounts, I will probably go back and replace all drive shaft and differential mounts a little latter along with the universal joints.
Replacing all the engine/transmission mounts, mine weren't bad but why not replace them while you're there
Have to remove the front exhaust pipe so, I'm replacing the seals on each end
CV joint boots looked okay but, again why not replace them while you have most of it taken apart

 

[eodgator]

Life overcame my maintenance schedule, but hopefully back on the project around Feb 8 - 12, pictures will follow

 

[Roundabout]

I hope you are having fun in your Rav by now.

Did you see any way to install a gauge or warning light in this system?
Could you post the numbers for the hoses?

I am disappointed with Toyota on this one, pumping a critical fluid through a rubber hose, and the transmission turning dust indicates hose failure!

 

[eodgator]

I bought the RAV4 a few years ago, then it was in storage for more than a year due to health issues. When I pulled it back out of storage I did a lot of maintenance replacing the oil pump, water pump, timing belt and pulleys, all hoses and belts, and almost total brake system replacement. The only hoses I hadn't replaced were the transmission coolant lines and vacuum lines, they were on order. These were most likely the original equipment hoses in a 16+ year old car with 132,000 miles, I certainly cannot fault Toyota for that problem. The hoses have nylon reinforcement over them so they are impossible to inspect that is why I was replacing them. I got ahead of myself and took it on a shakedown drive that shook it down, LOL. Entirely my fault, I knew the consequences of a failed line and took a chance.

I'm looking at a way to install a sensor of some sort, haven't figured out quite the best approach, it does have an oil pump in the transmission so I'm thinking a pressure gauge and/or a temp gauge.

I now have all the parts on hand to effect repairs and will be starting hopefully this weekend. It should look pretty good, adding firewall insulation while the engine is out, performing corrosion control, painting, adding hood insulation, and a lot more. Will post pictures as work goes on.

 

[joeshark]

Great thread, wish I had your skills. How are you going on about hood insulation? Brand? Where buying? Link?

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

 

[eodgator]

I can fix most anything, just finding the time between life events...

This is what I'm using for the firewall (engine side) insulation: Thermo-Tec 14125 48" X 72" Two Sided Thermo Guard Flame Retardant - Amazon.com: Thermo-Tec 14125 48" X 72" Two Sided Thermo Guard Flame Retardant: Automotive

This is the under the hood insulation: Dynamat 11905 Hoodliner 32" x 54" x 3/4" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00069QLVC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00

This is the insulation for the interior, under the carpet, in all the doors, between the roof and the head liner: Heat & Sound Car Insulation 100' roll - Carinsulation.com

Under the carpet I may add a carpet pad of closed cell foam under the carpet: Something like this Future Foam Prime Comfort 1/2 in. Thick Premium Carpet Pad with Double Sided Moisture Barrier with Teflon Surface Protector,

 

[joeshark]

Great stuff

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

 

[eodgator]

Finally back on the RAV4 transmission transplant. I've got everything ready to drop the engine and tranny in the morning. I'll try to get photos.

 

[eodgator]

Well life overcame my repairs but now I'm well into it. Before I pulled the engine I checked compression on the cylinders wet and dry and found no problems so I'm not messing with the engine itself. Pulled the engine and transaxle as a unit, now that's a fun task.
Tore the engine down except I left the head on the block and left the valve cover on. So, I did the following the past few days.
1) Took off the control arms and ordered new bushings, mount, and lower ball joints
2) Removed the sway brace, picked up new bushings and stabilizer end links
3) Disconnected the outer steering tie rod ends and replaced them
4) Removed the cross and center braces
5) Disconnected and labeled wire harness and vacuum hoses, ordered new vacuum hoses
6) Dropped the engine
7) Stripped everything off the block, head, and valve cover
8) Defunked and wire brushed the engine
9) Primed and painted the engine Ford Blue and the valve cover satin black with very high temp paint
10) Replaced the stock freeze plugs with brass freeze plugs

More to follow tomorrow, I expect I'll have the engine completely back together other than the transaxle.

Does anyone know what is involved in changing the seals on the 4x4 transaxle?

Pictures to follow.

 

[eodgator]

Today was mostly a rain day, I got a little accomplished
1) Defunked, primed, painted and reinstalled engine hooks
2) Reinstalled water pump and associated plumbing
3) Cleaned up main seal bracket, removed old seal, and installed new seal

And then it rained for the rest of the day

I did find out how to change the seals in the transaxle and decided not to do it as it looks to be above and beyond what I'm capable of doing with the limited tools on-hand. I'll keep my fingers crossed that the seals are good.

 

[eodgator]

We had a death in the family so I didn't get much done the past few days, but here is my list:
1) Installed new oil pump with new front crank seal
2) Some one had previously broke off a bolt on the rear crank seal bracket and I've been fighting with it trying to get it out. Looks like maybe it was cross threaded because it just doesn't want to budge, broke an easy out trying! So, I'm going to bore it out and cut new threads tomorrow.
3) Installed sensors
4) Made up a wiring harness and hoses to clean the fuel injectors
5) Touched up some of my engine paint

Hopefully tomorrow I'll get the fuel injectors cleaned and installed, run the wiring harness, install the intake manifold, clean, prime, paint and install all the mounts, and finally bore out and tap that bolt hole for the rear crank seal. Oh yes, install that rear crank seal.