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Rev More build thread

8670 Views 91 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  Savory
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Hi im Dan, and im building my partners 4.3 for some touring and camping.

She has given me a reasonable budget to build this car to hit some of the intermediate tracks around Australia including a trip to Cape York in 12 weeks.

Ill update this thread with everything thats happening.

2 weeks ago it was stock standard.

How it stands today:
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First was mods to the tailgate.

Jerry can holder

Fold down table

Dimmable lights

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Snorkel and snorkel testing
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BF Goodrich KM3 245/65 r17
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Any plans for a lift?

why would you drive into the water like that? It's not a submarine. There are so many parts you don't want submerged in water.

How heavy do you find those tires on the drivetrain? It must be crazy compared to stock. And your skidplate... please paint it properly!!!

Either way please keep us posted, I always appreciate an offroad oriented build 👍
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Its got to go deeper than window deep for its Cape York trip at least twice.

All of the electronics are sealed and it has a snorkel.

The tyres are heavy but its got So much more traction so its easily worth it.

Yeh im lifting the subframes 1/2" and the suspension 2". Theres no off the shelf lift kit available for it so im fitting Kluger front struts and longer springs and shocks for the back.

Its coming apart right now to reinforce the body and do the lift kit
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Its got to go deeper than window deep for its Cape York trip at least twice.

All of the electronics are sealed and it has a snorkel.

The tyres are heavy but its got So much more traction so its easily worth it.

Yeh im lifting the subframes 1/2" and the suspension 2". Theres no off the shelf lift kit available for it so im fitting Kluger front struts and longer springs and shocks for the back.

Its coming apart right now to reinforce the body and do the lift kit
View attachment 180631
You can find a 1" rear subframe lift online, but of course, nothing is available for the front.

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
Any plans for a lift?

why would you drive into the water like that? It's not a submarine. There are so many parts you don't want submerged in water.

How heavy do you find those tires on the drivetrain? It must be crazy compared to stock. And your skidplate... please paint it properly!!!

Either way please keep us posted, I always appreciate an offroad oriented build 👍
Because it's fun why else 😆 btw I like that plate in the front
You can fit 2" strut spacers in the front, and 1" subframe spacers combined with 1.5" lift springs in the rear. All of that can be ordered without the hassle of breaking your head too much. I am running those parts and the 2"/2.5" lift makes a big difference. Not sure I'd really want to go too much more than that.

As for going underwater, have you thought about transmission and diff breathers?

I'd be curious as to how you lift the front subframe if you do, please keep us posted!
Yeh it needs breathers. Its done plenty of water crossings deeper than the gearbox and diff but surprisingly hasnt taken on any water that i can see so far. But yes its getting breathers.

I have a pretty serious concern about breaking CVs and gearbox components so regarding the lift I am being pretty careful to keep it minimal and increase travel instead of height. I dont want to make any spribgs lobger without increasing droop travel also, because I dont want to lift the wheels off the ground very often. Once you lift a wheel you are really stressing the driveline when the wheel hits the earth again especially because the car does not have low range.

I suspect it will end up with Kluger (highlander) front struts(modified) and the rear subframe modified to accept longer shocks, along with longer springs.

I want 1.5-2" total body lift and im ok if only half of that is suspension lift, so long as that suspension lift is travel not just longer springs.

The subframes are coming out today to get started on all of the chassis work.

Im reinforcing the body, suspension components and subframes. Also making front and rear barwork, reinforcing the sills, mounting the winch etc.

Btw the front subframe will be lowered, lifting the body. Not the other way around. This is done to keep the suspension and driveshaft angles closer to stock.
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Very- nice! Those are some beefy tires (tyres). Ready for the apocalypse.
How did you mount that gas can carrier to the back of the door?
Yeh it needs breathers. Its done plenty of water crossings deeper than the gearbox and diff but surprisingly hasnt taken on any water that i can see so far. But yes its getting breathers.

I have a pretty serious concern about breaking CVs and gearbox components so regarding the lift I am being pretty careful to keep it minimal and increase travel instead of height. I dont want to make any spribgs lobger without increasing droop travel also, because I dont want to lift the wheels off the ground very often. Once you lift a wheel you are really stressing the driveline when the wheel hits the earth again especially because the car does not have low range.

I suspect it will end up with Kluger (highlander) front struts(modified) and the rear subframe modified to accept longer shocks, along with longer springs.

I want 1.5-2" total body lift and im ok if only half of that is suspension lift, so long as that suspension lift is travel not just longer springs.

The subframes are coming out today to get started on all of the chassis work.

Im reinforcing the body, suspension components and subframes. Also making front and rear barwork, reinforcing the sills, mounting the winch etc.

Btw the front subframe will be lowered, lifting the body. Not the other way around. This is done to keep the suspension and driveshaft angles closer to stock.
Keep us up to date with the front subframe drop since nothing is currently available, just rear.

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
Jerry can is mounted through the door skin using mudguard washers on both inside and outside. The mudguard washers are epoxied directly to the door skin on both sides. The jerry can holder is modified by welding brackets on to suit.

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I intend to cut some 1/2" thick washers to go between the front and rear subframes and body. Ill probably use the 4x front subframe bolts (typicaly used to mount chrome nudge bars) as one mount location for the bullbar. So those 4 bolts will sandwich the 1/2" thick bullbar mounts between the body and subframe. Seems like a good strong and obvious way to have a single part function for 2 duties.
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Its been a busy work week so just a test run on some things.

Wire wheeled some seam sealer off, drilled some spot welds out and removed some brackets (left side engine mounts shown).

Did some stitch and spot welds on the rails.

Made some templates for sheetmetal to weld onto the rails. Theyre getting fully plated front bar to rear bar. A fair bit oh thinking about how the rail width changes moves the engine mounts and how spacing the subframe down will mean spacing the steering rack up so the splines still connect on the steering shaft.

Just toying around and thinking about it mostly this week.

I have 12 weeks to finish this whole build so i wont keep everyone waiting too long.
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An example of the templates for plating the rails.

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