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I have a 2000 Rav4, its a ACA20 3 door swb with automatic transmission. Engine is a 2.0 litre, 1AZFE I4 16v DOHC VVT MPFI {110KW} 4WD AT
Reverse gear does not seem to engage, forward gears seam to be fine.
You cant feel it engage when reverse is selected but initially feels like it want to move backward. It can move back if the engine is revved hard but at a speed that normally would occur with foot off the brake and no accelerator.

There is no engines lights errors showing up on the dash.
I have owned the car for around 4 months and it drove perfectly at the time.
It has been sitting around not being driven, it is currently in the panel shop where I work, it's had minor panel work and a full respray done.

The battery died about a month ago but now can hold a charge, battery was disconnected terminals cleaned.
I also coded a spare key after this, worked fine, immobilizer, doors open and car starts with key.
So basically after this I have not driven the car since but have been starting the engine every few days. Last week went to reverse and the issue occurred.
I got one of the mechs to have a quick look, the atf was low so added more.

I got an atf filter,gasket and enough atf to do a flush. I also go a price for a new ecu after doing some searching about rav4 auto problems.
I can get the ecu for cost price from a local toyota dealer.

Does it sound like an ECU problem or a mechanical one?
Is an ECU plug and play or does it have to be coded and how does it effect keys?
I'm hoping it it just due to the inactivity of the car and a flush will fix it.
We have a scan tool at work but it is not toyota specific, would that be able to tell me anything?

Thanks for reading
 

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I only have info for the 2nd Gen RAV4 (01-05) , but this forum doesn't get much traffic so I will offer what I know.

The 2nd Gen RAV4 had transmission problems directly related to the ECU. Slipping, not going into gear, Etc.
The easiest and cheapest way to fix it was to 'buy' a Fix-It service from eBay. You buy one, install it, then send yours back as a core charge. Cost around $150 or so.
The ECU is plug and play, located behind the glove box.

Have them scan it for you. Just because there's no light, it does not mean there's no code.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

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Greeting jmr303 from "across the pond". And welcome to the forum.
I've never done the quote thing and then answered, but here goes a try...
There's a great "sticky" about a trans repair where you posted this. Read it if you haven't

I got an atf filter,gasket and enough atf to do a flush. I also go a price for a new ecu after doing some searching about rav4 auto problems.
I can get the ecu for cost price from a local toyota dealer.

There are several places to get ECU's repaired for a LOT less than what I think one from cost from a dealer would be. If you search eBay in America for a seller named mandigital he fixes for $80.00 and guarantees it for life. Circuitboardmedics.com is another.

Does it sound like an ECU problem or a mechanical one?

Not sure, but from what I've read in my two months on here it's a high probability. I would do your flush first which sounds like your going to do anyway.

Is an ECU plug and play or does it have to be coded and how does it effect keys?

ECU is a plug and play. The ECU "reprograms itself" from your driving habits after a few times of driving. Initial observation is a low idle from the start....

I'm hoping it it just due to the inactivity of the car and a flush will fix it.

This is where I would start. The sticky above has a few things to check while the pan is off

We have a scan tool at work but it is not toyota specific, would that be able to tell me anything?

I don't think you need a Toyota specific scan tool. Mine is a generic and I read codes on mine and can erase check engine lights...

Hope that helps. Post results
R&R
 
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