[lyrica]

2007 2.4 / 2WD - Didn't jump it backwards, put charger on backwards. Assuming damage would be similar, I did everything to fix it... new battery, tested /replaced every fuse everywhere (even did the dreaded 120amp fusable link) and I don't think it was even blown. It's Reading 14 amps from alternator. Everything works except -No PS or PW (& shift lock - all dash warning lights still on)
and it is not a fuse - all fuses related to PS & PW are good and I couldnt find that there are any relays that pertain to PS or PW in the diagrams? Please help! Am I missing something? Please don't tell me its the PSCM? The computer that you have to take out/remove the entire interior dashboard and intrument cluster to replace. This is a total nightmare that's been going on for 2 years. This is a beautiful RAV .. its like brand new, only 90,000 mi on it! OH... I guess a big question would be - 'How could I find out if it is the PSCM for sure? Because thats the real fear, what if I did replace the PSCM and then after all that .. it wasn't it! PS/PW still don't work.'

 

[DL175]

Was the fuses checked visually or with a multi-meter? Go over every fuse once more with a multi-meter. Check all three fuse panel. Usually it is the fuses that blow. Do you have any codes?

 

[lyrica]

Thank you for your reply! I checked all fuses with a multi-meter, and found and replaced the usual suspects right off. Thats why everything else works fine, like A/C-radio-lights-...etc. There's actually 4 fuse panels. A regular OBD scanner doesnt tell you anything. I downloaded a real scanning software program on my PC, but ordered the wrong (incompatable wire) to hook it up. So no, no codes yet. I'm just asking for advice in the mean time? And probably might have to have it towed to the dealership eventually for a diagnosis. But no one likes or trusts the Toyota dealership here.

 

[espos4]

You should get a wiring diagram and start following it to see where the issue may be.

 

[espos4]

For the power windows….
Each window switch has a blue wire. Do you have power at any/all of those with the key on?

power for that blue wire comes from a power relay in the driver side end of dashboard fuse block. There are also 3 fuses for the windows there. 1 for both front windows and individual fuses for each rear window.

 

[espos4]

There also shows a 120 amp fuse and a separate “main fusible link”. If you have power at the 120 amp fuse, then the fusible link is good.
Thjs information is difficult to relay via words. A good wiring diagram will be very helpful to you.

 

[lyrica]

You should get a wiring diagram and start following it to see where the issue may be.

Hey espos4 : ) I did study all the diagrams. And there is or looks like from what I could tell, all kinds of 'diodes' leading to and from what would be PS, but they are buried so deep in the cars electrical system there is no way to look at' em and I dont know enough how to test them. I guess a 'diode' is somekind of extra fuse precaution built into the wires? I've also had two different views by guys on here with my first post a year and a half ago about them... one guy said that diodes dont burn out like a fuse and that its virtually impossible and goes against the whole nature of it... then another guy said...'No- they sure as hell do!'
I'm pretty sure the same problem is linked with the PS & PW together. If it was a reverse polar 'jumper cable' incident I would be fine now. But the reverse charging thing I think was way-way worse, because it was a 'slow mild feed of bad energy' that creeped through the fuses without blowing them, thats why the big 120amp fuseable link didnt blow (I replaced anyway) It would have been better if it were one quick big blast of bad energy so the fuses could do their job?

 

[lyrica]

Hey espos4 : ) I did study all the diagrams. And there is or looks like from what I could tell, all kinds of 'diodes' leading to and from what would be PS, but they are buried so deep in the cars electrical system there is no way to look at' em and I dont know enough how to test them. I guess a 'diode' is somekind of extra fuse precaution built into the wires? I've also had two different views by guys on here with my first post a year and a half ago about them... one guy said that diodes dont burn out like a fuse and that its virtually impossible and goes against the whole nature of it... then another guy said...'No- they sure as hell do!'
I'm pretty sure the same problem is linked with the PS & PW together. If it was a reverse polar 'jumper cable' incident I would be fine now. But the reverse charging thing I think was way-way worse, because it was a 'slow mild feed of bad energy' that creeped through the fuses without blowing them, thats why the big 120amp fuseable link didnt blow (I replaced anyway) It would have been better if it were one quick big blast of bad energy so the fuses could do their job?

Yes 120amp fusable link is good reading 14amps just like it should. and I did take apart and replace anyway.

 

[Automender]

Hey espos4 : ) I did study all the diagrams. And there is or looks like from what I could tell, all kinds of 'diodes' leading to and from what would be PS, but they are buried so deep in the cars electrical system there is no way to look at' em and I dont know enough how to test them. I guess a 'diode' is somekind of extra fuse precaution built into the wires? I've also had two different views by guys on here with my first post a year and a half ago about them... one guy said that diodes dont burn out like a fuse and that its virtually impossible and goes against the whole nature of it... then another guy said...'No- they sure as hell do!'
I'm pretty sure the same problem is linked with the PS & PW together. If it was a reverse polar 'jumper cable' incident I would be fine now. But the reverse charging thing I think was way-way worse, because it was a 'slow mild feed of bad energy' that creeped through the fuses without blowing them, thats why the big 120amp fuseable link didnt blow (I replaced anyway) It would have been better if it were one quick big blast of bad energy so the fuses could do their job?

Diodes are not like fuses they are the same as a check valve in the plumbing. They allow electricity to flow in only one direction. However if you put too much voltage or current to them they will burn up. What type of charger did you use, I could see a jumpstart charger that you select a function to jumpstart causing damage.

 

[espos4]

Your mention testing the fuses, but did you also check for 12v at the fuse terminal of the systems that you have issues with?
You don’t say if you tested fuses with a continuity tester or if you did it by checking for voltage on both sides of the fuse.
The attached picture shows that the fusible link protects the engine room fuse block, but there is a separate line from the battery to the starting/ charging system.

do you have 12v at the alt fuse 120A?
Do you have 12v at the EMPS 60amp terminal? That’s for power steering.
If you don’t have power at these fuses in the picture, you’ll need to solve that first.

I see this has been going on for a long time and it’s hard to get a good read on your electrical skills from a forum.

 

[lyrica]

It was an old fashioned charger, with just a voltage meter, takes a couple hours to charge anything- No jump feature.
And I only had it on for a couple minutes before I realized..

I tested every fuse on the entire car (all 4 fuse panel/boxes) with I guess you'd call a continuity tester/multi meter, just that they were good (green light on both sides) I didn't necessarily look at the actual voltage reading off the fuses. I did check the Voltage coming out the 120A alt fuse link /terminal and it reads 14v which its supposed to ... not 12v, altough even 12v would mean its still ok. I've takin apart the fuse box. The 60A fusable link is good! I know because I surgically removed the top lid off it to stick the tester in, also replaced it anyway when I ended up takin the fuse box apart anyway to get to the 120A which never was actually blown to begin with, just I faced up to the nightmare take apart saga everyone was talking about, first off while I was sill just learning about everything. But I dont know how or where to touch on to test the actual voltage on the 60A terminal, like I do know how for the 120A voltage terminal. If you could read my posting again I thought I was explaining my extent of knowledge so far? I really am apprieciating this discussion : ) and thank you for the images.

 

[lyrica]

Im down to ..'Do you think I ruined the PSCM (its the other Computer module [not to be confused with the ECM] that runs the power steering and also mentions the power windows) and how can I test that? Or is it even possible to ruin it... I thought thats what fuses are for to begin with?

 

[lyrica]

And I did all the computer module resetting procedures and none of that did anything so I dont think its that?

 

[espos4]

If you remove the 60 amp fuse, you'll see 2 terminals down in the slot of the fusebox where it was mounted. Use your volt meter. Put the negative probe on the battery negative and use the positive probe on each of those terminals (one at a time). one should have 12v.

 

[Automender]

I am thinking about how you would have damaged anything by what you have done. You have a battery that has the capability of supplying 350 to 800 amps if shorted and you applied maybe 10 amps in the reverse current. To me it would seem like the battery would see that as a load and would not let the charge reverse flow current to the car. I need to do a little more thinking about that. Also seems like charger would protect itself and shut down or blow out.

 

[lyrica]

If you remove the 60 amp fuse, you'll see 2 terminals down in the slot of the fusebox where it was mounted. Use your volt meter. Put the negative probe on the battery negative and use the positive probe on each of those terminals (one at a time). one should have 12v.

 

[lyrica]

I hear `ya... thats taking the fuse box apart again the huge pain : )
I would do that again, but I have access to the fuse on top ..couldnt I get the actual voltage read from there because I tested it and the fuse is good, I just didnt pay attention to the voltage. I would do it right now, but I borrowed the meter and dont have it.
I know youre think'in..'Dude wtf? get a meter!' lol

 

[Automender]

In theory you wouldn't blow any fuses that are rated higher than your battery charger amp output. Can you post a pic of the wiring diagram of at least the PS circuit.
Your alternator has a diode bridge which has to be rated higher than it's output so that is why they didn't get damaged. Using this logic you need to find the rating of the diodes in the PS circuit. I am not familiar with that circuit.

Do you have this warning light on?

 

[espos4]

I hear `ya... thats taking the fuse box apart again the huge pain : )
I would do that again, but I have access to the fuse on top ..couldnt I get the actual voltage read from there because I tested it and the fuse is good, I just didnt pay attention to the voltage. I would do it right now, but I borrowed the meter and dont have it.
I know youre think'in..'Dude wtf? get a meter!' lol

No need to disassemble the fuse box. Just remove the fuse.

 

[lyrica]

I am thinking about how you would have damaged anything by what you have done. You have a battery that has the capability of supplying 350 to 800 amps if shorted and you applied maybe 10 amps in the reverse current. To me it would seem like the battery would see that as a load and would not let the charge reverse flow current to the car. I need to do a little more thinking about that. Also seems like charger would protect itself and shut down or blow out.

Hi Automender! Right... like thats why the big 120A alt fuse and 60A PS fuse never did blow out... the only two fuses that blew were the 20A radio and one of the 10A ECU fuses.
The battery was completely dead and not even taking a charge... the needle on the meter on the old charger didnt even read anything when I connected it correctly, after I realized it was wrong. And I had got the new battery and swear I drove it around the yard and the steering worked and the shifter wasn't locked. I had the little fuses replaced already thats when I discovered it was in 'limp-mode' and then I fixed that! and was like awesome thank God! Then that's when I went to test drive it again... right off all dash lights were still on - I had to manually unlock the shifter- 'holy fk! the PS and PW don't work!'