[Automender]

So are all your warning lights on? If not is the steering light on? I am looking through the wiring diagram and noticed that the PS ECU is connected directly to the battery through the 60 amp fuse and it is switched on by the Main ECU. You have checked all the fuses but it maybe a control relay? Not sure. Did you try starting the car when it was connected to the battery charger the wrong way
Just guessing but it looks like you could have back feed the EPS ECU directly through that 60 amp fuse. Do you know were that ECU is located? If you blew a 20 amp fuse that would indicate the charger was 20 output and you would expect some signs of damage to the pins or connector to that module.

 

[lyrica]

No need to disassemble the fuse box. Just remove the fuse.

The 60A PS fuse is bolted undeneath just like the 120A alt fuse

For the power windows….
Each window switch has a blue wire. Do you have power at any/all of those with the key on?

power for that blue wire comes from a power relay in the driver side end of dashboard fuse block. There are also 3 fuses for the windows there. 1 for both front windows and individual fuses for each rear window.

Sry I just noticed this message... no I havent tested any blue wires... Yes I do know about the 30A PW fuses on the side of the dash. I replaced them all with new fuses. I apprieciate you mentioning that though. When I look at all the relays on the diagrams none of them say they pertain to PS or PW? or I wouda' replaced them. Maybe Im wrong I'll go over the diagram again

 

[lyrica]

In theory you wouldn't blow any fuses that are rated higher than your battery charger amp output. Can you post a pic of the wiring diagram of at least the PS circuit.
Your alternator has a diode bridge which has to be rated higher than it's output so that is why they didn't get damaged. Using this logic you need to find the rating of the diodes in the PS circuit. I am not familiar with that circuit.

Do you have this warning light on?
View attachment 192055

Heres a link to a complete fuse/relay box diagrams
and yeah PS light is on... its not a steering wheel symbol it is just [P/S] light

 

[Automender]

You didn't supply a link. What is the PS light mean? Is that the 2007 EPS light?
Here is a EPS ECU on Ebay 06 07 08 Toyota Rav4 Power Steering Control Module Computer #1682-MOD | eBay

 

[lyrica]

So are all your warning lights on? If not is the steering light on? I am looking through the wiring diagram and noticed that the PS ECU is connected directly to the battery through the 60 amp fuse and it is switched on by the Main ECU. You have checked all the fuses but it maybe a control relay? Not sure. Did you try starting the car when it was connected to the battery charger the wrong way
Just guessing but it looks like you could have back feed the EPS ECU directly through that 60 amp fuse. Do you know were that ECU is located? If you blew a 20 amp fuse that would indicate the charger was 20 output and you would expect some signs of damage to the pins or connector to that module.

I dont see any relays that specifically say they are pertaining to the PS... And Man That is a scary Question...I really dont think I tried to start it with the charger on backwards...but it was like 2 years ago and there is a chance I might have??
The only 20A fuse I blew was the radio.
Yes the ECU is located behind the glove compartment and easy to get to. I have no idea how to test the pins or connectors though? And thats the Engine module and the engine runs perfectly. Now the EPSCModule is located behind the instument cluster and you have to take apart the entire interior dash board across the whole car to get to it... which if I knew for a fact that was the problem I would, but I would have to know before I did that. It says that computer module runs PW too. But yeah... maybe bad power got back fed through the 60A? but it didnt blow though

 

[lyrica]

You didn't supply a link. What is the PS light mean? Is that the 2007 EPS light?
Here is a EPS ECU on Ebay 06 07 08 Toyota Rav4 Power Steering Control Module Computer #1682-MOD | eBay

sry--- Fuse Box Diagram Toyota RAV4 (XA30; 2006-2012)

 

[lyrica]

Yes on the 2007 the EPS warnging light is [P/S] just like that. And yeah, every single warning light is on when the car is running... but everything works fine, Except the EPS & PW.
Yeah Ive looked at and even booked marked that E-Bay page. But I cant find any other info about the EPS/ECU... except a you tube video of what it terrifyingly looks like to replace one.

 

[Automender]

I dont see any relays that specifically say they are pertaining to the PS... And Man That is a scary Question...I really dont think I tried to start it with the charger on backwards...but it was like 2 years ago and there is a chance I might have??
The only 20A fuse I blew was the radio.
Yes the ECU is located behind the glove compartment and easy to get to. I have no idea how to test the pins or connectors though? And thats the Engine module and the engine runs perfectly. Now the EPSCModule is located behind the instument cluster and you have to take apart the entire interior dash board across the whole car to get to it... which if I knew for a fact that was the problem I would, but I would have to know before I did that. It says that computer module runs PW too. But yeah... maybe bad power got back fed through the 60A? but it didnt blow though

10-20 amps from a charger will not blow a 60 amp fuse no matter how long the current is applied. Fuses don't care the direction of current but you figure you had 120 to 240 watts of power/heat flowing into the module. The only reason a fuse blows on reverse current is a low resistance path to ground. I figure the 60 amp supply is feed to a SCR/ power transistor control that switches on when the main ECU turns the EPS module on. You may have damaged that part of the EPS ECU. You need to have the modules scanned with a scanner that can see all those modules. The cheap scanners can't read those codes because they are specific to Toyota. Issue is there may not be a code for a bad module but ones for things like steering wheel angle not present of failure to communicate. Sadly it is cheaper but more time consuming to swap the module than pay for the scan.

 

[lyrica]

10-20 amps from a charger will not blow a 60 amp fuse no matter how long the current is applied. Fuses don't care the direction of current but you figure you had 120 to 240 watts of power/heat flowing into the module. The only reason a fuse blows on reverse current is a low resistance path to ground. I figure the 60 amp supply is feed to a SCR/ power transistor control that switches on when the main ECU turns the EPS module on. You may have damaged that part of the EPS ECU. You need to have the modules scanned with a scanner that can see all those modules. The cheap scanners can't read those codes because they are specific to Toyota. Issue is there may not be a code for a bad module but ones for things like steering wheel angle not present of failure to communicate. Sadly it is cheaper but more time consuming to swap the module than pay for the scan.

Yeah, the charger only goes to 15 amps and the needle never read anything or went up at all when it was hooked up.
I don't know how or what that would translate into watts? But yeah I think your saying that bad power/heat would still be flowing through the 60A fuse without it blowing. It didn't damage the main ECU though. But again you sound right, that the EPS-ECU must have got damaged. And nothing short of a Toyota Dealer Scan will tell me anything. I have a good scanning software downloaded on my pc, just have to get the right obd wire... anyway you're saying, if I can get any kind of steering problem code or 'failure to communicate' with steering - is a good indication that the EPS module is bad, but nothing is gonna just come out and say that directly. (I know I'm talking in circles) Would, you trust the $40 ebay one? I guess Id have to or pay $800 for a new one. Do you know - would I be able to test it, start the car -to see if it works after I have it in, but before I put everything all back together yet? And thanks man for takin the time to help me and talk to me about all this!

 

[espos4]

Ok….. slow down.
your next step is to buy yourself a test lightand a DVOM. (Volt meter)
You can have both for less than $50 and are absolutely necessary if you want any chance of tracking down the culprit here.
Testing fuses is only part of the diagnosis. Checking for power and ground will tell you more.

 

[lyrica]

Ok….. slow down.
your next step is to buy yourself a test lightand a DVOM. (Volt meter)
You can have both for less than $50 and are absolutely necessary if you want any chance of tracking down the culprit here.
Testing fuses is only part of the diagnosis. Checking for power and ground will tell you more.

Alright, I do need to invest in my own volt meter and get a test light. When I borrowed the volt meter and tested all the fuses, the only other test I knew how and where to do was the Amps coming out of the alt fuse terminal. Would you be able to walk me through a little on where to poke the test light for grounds and stuff? I think you're talkin' about like in the light switches and maybe on the EPS unit itself... things like that... and or maybe theres a way to access a wire to test leading to the EPS-ECU without having to take a lot of things apart.

 

[espos4]

Alright, I do need to invest in my own volt meter and get a test light. When I borrowed the volt meter and tested all the fuses, the only other test I knew how and where to do was the Amps coming out of the alt fuse terminal. Would you be able to walk me through a little on where to poke the test light for grounds and stuff? I think you're talkin' about like in the light switches and maybe on the EPS unit itself... things like that... and or maybe theres a way to access a wire to test leading to the EPS-ECU without having to take a lot of things apart.

Yes. No problem. You’ll also need easy access to the wiring diagrams, either on paper, preferably in color, or on a laptop sized screen.
The phone screen is a bit too small to easily scroll through.

 

[lyrica]

Yes. No problem. You’ll also need easy access to the wiring diagrams, either on paper, preferably in color, or on a laptop sized screen.
The phone screen is a bit too small to easily scroll through.

Yes I will have my lap-top prompted and right there. And I'll have the correct obd wire to see if this diagnosis software
shows anything. I usually would have the money to go buy the things right now but just kinda broke at the moment.
And dang, I just had a $50 O'Reillys gift card from Christmas that I just spent on knick-knacks... lol
So yeah I'll let ya know when I have the tools. It's good to know that I'll be on a new level of approach.
Thanks espos4!

 

[Automender]

You can get a cheap but useful multimeter from Harbor Freight for less than $10 but you also need a test probe light that will tell you if there is any current behind the multimeter reading. The electronic meters will indicate a voltage but they are so sensitive they don't load the circuit by design and sometimes fools you. The test light will draw an amp or two while the multimeter only draws needs micro amps to read a voltage.

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[Automender]

This is the link I used to look at the wiring on your car. It makes sense that an Toyota protected the ECUs simply by having installed a diode on the low current input power leads that will not let negative voltage flow into the ECU. But not sure that they would do it on the major power into the EPS ECU. Look at the wiring diagrams at the end of the link I attached.

Power Window - Toyota 2007 RAV4 Electrical Wiring Diagram [Page 193]

Toyota 2007 RAV4 Manual Online: Power Window. E15 ( A ) Main Body ECU DCTY 26 21 IA 1 192 ( BAT ) 140A ALT ( 1 ) 120A ALT ( 2 ) 2 1 1 IG PWR Relay 13 17 IE 19 IA PWS LIN2 23 A 5 EK1 13 EL1 1 IL1 E1 RAV4 (EM03T0U) 1 20A 20A RR RL DOOR DOOR 2 1 IA 2 IH 1 JK1 1 GE1 ( BAT ) 20A D FR DOOR...

www.manualslib.com

Eps - Toyota 2007 RAV4 Electrical Wiring Diagram [Page 263]

Toyota 2007 RAV4 Manual Online: Eps. ( IG ) 10A ECU–IG1 7 IS 69 3B 82 3A 5 B 1 IG PGND CANL 2 A 8 B 2 A5 262 ( BAT ) 60A EMPS 2 1 A PIG CANH C1 S1 R1 B 1 D 2 D 4 D 5 Rotation Angle Sensor e2 ( D ) Rotation Angle Sensor RAV4 (EM03T0U) e3 ( E ) Power Steering Motor M 1 E 3 E U V C2 S2 R2...

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Shift Lock - Toyota 2007 RAV4 Electrical Wiring Diagram [Page 211]

Toyota 2007 RAV4 Manual Online: Shift Lock. Shift Lock Solenoid SLS SLS– E39 Shift Lock Control ECU KLS 5 2 Ed1 1 2 1 Ed1 78 3A 17 IE 43 3B 28 IE 210 ( IG ) 10A ECU–IG1 7 IS 69 3B 70 3A 8 P E2 IG E 1 83 4A 70 4A E1 E3 RAV4 (EM03T0U) ( ACC ) ( BAT ) 7. 5A 10A ACC STOP 4 IS 18 IB 4 5 40...

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Reverse Polarity Protection | DevXplained

A reverse voltage can easily damage electronic circuits. Let's look at simple reverse polarity protection circuits using diodes.

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.

 

[lyrica]

You can get a cheap but useful multimeter from Harbor Freight for less than $10 but you also need a test probe light that will tell you if there is any current behind the multimeter reading. The electronic meters will indicate a voltage but they are so sensitive they don't load the circuit by design and sometimes fools you. The test light will draw an amp or two while the multimeter only draws needs micro amps to read a voltage.

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That is definitely good to know... get the Mutimeter at Harber Frieght instead of an auto parts store, way cheaper!
Yeah and the test light is what I thought you guys were talkin' about ..that screw driver looking thing with alligator clips, that you use to ground it with. Man looks like I can get both of 'em for around $10 at Harbor Frieght and there does happen to be one in my little town- Yay

 

[lyrica]

This is the link I used to look at the wiring on your car. It makes sense that an Toyota protected the ECUs simply by having installed a diode on the low current input power leads that will not let negative voltage flow into the ECU. But not sure that they would do it on the major power into the EPS ECU. Look at the wiring diagrams at the end of the link I attached.

Power Window - Toyota 2007 RAV4 Electrical Wiring Diagram [Page 193]

Toyota 2007 RAV4 Manual Online: Power Window. E15 ( A ) Main Body ECU DCTY 26 21 IA 1 192 ( BAT ) 140A ALT ( 1 ) 120A ALT ( 2 ) 2 1 1 IG PWR Relay 13 17 IE 19 IA PWS LIN2 23 A 5 EK1 13 EL1 1 IL1 E1 RAV4 (EM03T0U) 1 20A 20A RR RL DOOR DOOR 2 1 IA 2 IH 1 JK1 1 GE1 ( BAT ) 20A D FR DOOR...

www.manualslib.com

Eps - Toyota 2007 RAV4 Electrical Wiring Diagram [Page 263]

Toyota 2007 RAV4 Manual Online: Eps. ( IG ) 10A ECU–IG1 7 IS 69 3B 82 3A 5 B 1 IG PGND CANL 2 A 8 B 2 A5 262 ( BAT ) 60A EMPS 2 1 A PIG CANH C1 S1 R1 B 1 D 2 D 4 D 5 Rotation Angle Sensor e2 ( D ) Rotation Angle Sensor RAV4 (EM03T0U) e3 ( E ) Power Steering Motor M 1 E 3 E U V C2 S2 R2...

www.manualslib.com

Shift Lock - Toyota 2007 RAV4 Electrical Wiring Diagram [Page 211]

Toyota 2007 RAV4 Manual Online: Shift Lock. Shift Lock Solenoid SLS SLS– E39 Shift Lock Control ECU KLS 5 2 Ed1 1 2 1 Ed1 78 3A 17 IE 43 3B 28 IE 210 ( IG ) 10A ECU–IG1 7 IS 69 3B 70 3A 8 P E2 IG E 1 83 4A 70 4A E1 E3 RAV4 (EM03T0U) ( ACC ) ( BAT ) 7. 5A 10A ACC STOP 4 IS 18 IB 4 5 40...

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View and Download Toyota 2007 RAV4 electrical wiring diagram online. 2007 RAV4 automobile pdf manual download. Also for: Gsa33 series, Gsa38 series, Aca33 series, Aca38 series.

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Reverse Polarity Protection | DevXplained

A reverse voltage can easily damage electronic circuits. Let's look at simple reverse polarity protection circuits using diodes.

devxplained.eu

.

Okay Im gonna study those official Toyota diagram links, I like how they are already separated- specific to each problem and read that reverse polarity protection article... thats crazy you found that! thanks.
And yeah you would think that if they paid special attention to protecting the ECU from negative flow with diodes, that, that would go for the EPS-ECU too? But you're saying not necessarily... maybe not?

 

[Automender]

Okay Im gonna study those official Toyota diagram links, I like how they are already separated- specific to each problem and read that reverse polarity protection article... thats crazy you found that! thanks.
And yeah you would think that if they paid special attention to protecting the ECU from negative flow with diodes, that, that would go for the EPS-ECU too? But you're saying not necessarily... maybe not?

Well from the diagrams the window ECU is not the same as the EPS ECU from the numbering on the diagrams. When you look at the EPS it gets the heavy power from the 60 amp fuse but there is also connection to the main engine ECU is where I think the EPS ECU electronics is actually powered. The 60 amp source is controlled by that EPS ECU to power the hydraulic pump. If the 60 amp powered up the whole module it would always to on. At least that's my best guess.
You need to look through all these diagrams and see if there is a common failure but I have not seen one on a quick look

 

[lyrica]

Well from the diagrams the window ECU is not the same as the EPS ECU from the numbering on the diagrams. When you look at the EPS it gets the heavy power from the 60 amp fuse but there is also connection to the main engine ECU is where I think the EPS ECU electronics is actually powered. The 60 amp source is controlled by that EPS ECU to power the hydraulic pump. If the 60 amp powered up the whole module it would always to on. At least that's my best guess.
You need to look through all these diagrams and see if there is a common failure but I have not seen one on a quick look

so like the EPS-ECU gets its initial power through the ECU... which we know is protected, but also gets another direct feed of power straight from through the 60A, that may or may not be protected and is also the side of power it sends to actually power the actual steering pump which might explain why the ECU is fine but the EPS-ECU is messed up because it got dirty energy from its mechanical power side.
And theres got to be or probably is, another common wire that bypassed the protection filter diode of the ECU, that feeds in and out of the EPS-ECU carrying bad energy or no energy at all now... to the PW's
So one of the first things would be ...test to see what kind of voltage is reading at hydraulic pump and or test light to see if any power is gettin there at all... and the same at the PW switches. Its something like that, that I think youre gettin at? and then some ground tests. I think I'm barely starting to comprehend the concept of possibly gettin to the bottom of this nightmare...lol

 

[Automender]

so like the EPS-ECU gets its initial power through the ECU... which we know is protected, but also gets another direct feed of power straight from through the 60A, that may or may not be protected and is also the side of power it sends to actually power the actual steering pump which might explain why the ECU is fine but the EPS-ECU is messed up because it got dirty energy from its mechanical power side.
And theres got to be or probably is, another common wire that bypassed the protection filter diode of the ECU, that feeds in and out of the EPS-ECU carrying bad energy or no energy at all now... to the PW's
So one of the first things would be ...test to see what kind of voltage is reading at hydraulic pump and or test light to see if any power is gettin there at all... and the same at the PW switches. Its something like that, that I think youre gettin at? and then some ground tests. I think I'm barely starting to comprehend the concept of possibly gettin to the bottom of this nightmare...lol

I looked a little more and I don't think the PW has a ECU. The main ECU energizes the relay on the diagram which then powers the windows. That switched part of the relay or contacts are feed from the 120 amp fuse directly. There is a chance that the relay contacts are fried. You can check that relay out by probing the contact output wire of the for 12 volts. Do all the windows not function anymore? Substituting a relay can also identify the issue. It could not function either by the coil not getting a signal from the ECU or the contacts are burnt. It could also be a wiring issue also. It seems like if you didn't try to start the car with the charger hooked up right power would not have got to the window circuit because of the relay. So you should check to see if the ECU is turning on that relay.