[lyrica]

Okay... I've been studying the PW wiring diagram you sent, and comparing it to the basic fuse/relay box - def / location diagram I sent you. You are right, on the real wiring diagram it does show PW relays! They are just not labled or shown on the other diagrams. I've been comparing the two to try to get a grasp on which is what and where. I am not afraid to buy new relays... if I can find an identical other relay to swap and test I will for the meantime. And yeah I hear ya' ultimately you still need the test meter and light - cause it might be the contacts too, not just the relay itself. The only reason I thought the EPS-ECU had something to do with the PW is that I read something while researching the EPS-ECU where it defined its functions and it said PW was one of them? who knows, anyway-
Wiring Issue! Here we go... the plot thickens`
I can't believe I haven't mentioned this before (A MAJOR COINCEDENCE) ... I've just been so overshadowed by the reverse polar incident.
At the exact same time of this whole thing, There was a horrible smell in the car, and I found a dead baby mouse in/on the cabin air filter. And the garage I keep the Rav in did always have a family of rats livin'in it. Its a nice garage I just ignored it. I've trapped them all out since. The rats might have chewed up some wires! It may have nothin' to do with the reverse polar? And remember I never even blew' the 120A fuse link... which is supposed to be the worse case scenario in a rev-polar incident. (unless theres still something to the slow feed of bad energy from a charger) anyway, And after I got the new battery and replaced the two little fuses that did blow... I did drive the car around the yard! and there was nothing wrong with the steering or windows... thats why they are stuck in down position right now.
So I'm pullin around - stop double check everything- a/c - radio -lights-etc. Discover something else just went wrong.. It's in limp mode? all of a sudden, I learn how to fix that... then pull it straight in the garage, leaving the windows down because I plan on coming right back and driving it around some more. A couple hrs later I go out, get in it, start it up... all warning lights still on? 'that's weird'.. go to put it in gear... it locked? 'thats weird' - stick a screwdriver in it and unlock it, then I back out of the garage--- The Steering is not Working? - oh sh*t!- either are the windows.

That mice chewing up wires has happened to me before (not same garage) I have an old van that I thought the Electronic fuel pump went bad on it, so I drop the tank to replace/fix it... and rats had chewed through all the fuel pump wires above the tank... I taped all the wires back together- the fuel pump was fine.
I'm gettin the test`o meters and light tonight or tomorrow! Thanks for hangin' in there with me!
And I'm gonna keep studing all the diagrams so Im up to speed and start routin` around maybe can find some obvious wire damage ... if I cant thats what testers are for - Yay!

 

[Automender]

I think you are on the right thought process. So you have been driving this car with the windows down and all this stuff wrong for two years? You just need to use the diagrams and look at the wire colors and probe the wires in question. It takes a long time but that's why having electrical issues fix costs so much money. Just keep going down a logical path and don't jump around once you have a plan.
I was going to suggest the swapping relays but I don't have that much experience with Rav4. But I have swapped relays in troubleshooting other cars. The PW must have some intelligence in the motors, do all your windows have the Auto feature or just the driverside?

 

[lyrica]

I think you are on the right thought process. So you have been driving this car with the windows down and all this stuff wrong for two years? You just need to use the diagrams and look at the wire colors and probe the wires in question. It takes a long time but that's why having electrical issues fix costs so much money. Just keep going down a logical path and don't jump around once you have a plan.
I was going to suggest the swapping relays but I don't have that much experience with Rav4. But I have swapped relays in troubleshooting other cars. The PW must have some intelligence in the motors, do all your windows have the Auto feature or just the driverside?

No, I haven't been driving it... You can't, its way too hard- theres no steering. sure you could force it across the yard or drive it in a dire emergency, but it's too dangerous and would probably ruin it. Electronic power steering is different than older cars with belt driven pumps. You could still drive the car around, it would just feel like a car that didnt have the power steering feature.

Im pretty sure just the driverside has auto-feature.
Yeah Im gonna get the test meters and study the diagrams, remove whatever panels I can to get a look at/expose all the wiring that I can, identify and use the colors like you said. And when I get things narrowed down to specific questions and procedures I'm gonna message you and espos4 has got my back too. One thing is I don't have a total comprehension of how to find whether something is due to a bad ground or not, and maybe just the right places to check and what something might mean? Right and stick to the area you're on, till you understand it and what its telling you, before just jumpin over to something else.

 

[iowagold]

Hey espos4 : ) I did study all the diagrams. And there is or looks like from what I could tell, all kinds of 'diodes' leading to and from what would be PS, but they are buried so deep in the cars electrical system there is no way to look at' em and I dont know enough how to test them. I guess a 'diode' is somekind of extra fuse precaution built into the wires? I've also had two different views by guys on here with my first post a year and a half ago about them... one guy said that diodes dont burn out like a fuse and that its virtually impossible and goes against the whole nature of it... then another guy said...'No- they sure as hell do!'
I'm pretty sure the same problem is linked with the PS & PW together. If it was a reverse polar 'jumper cable' incident I would be fine now. But the reverse charging thing I think was way-way worse, because it was a 'slow mild feed of bad energy' that creeped through the fuses without blowing them, thats why the big 120amp fuseable link didnt blow (I replaced anyway) It would have been better if it were one quick big blast of bad energy so the fuses could do their job?

lyrica

sorry late to the party
a diode is like a directional check valve.
and can be used to limit current as well as many other features.

a incandescent test light works best to make sure the power is good hard power.
it will load the ckt just a few mills of current.

trace down the power a bit at a time.

does the rav have remote start? if it does then check or replace that remote start unit some remote start units have auto window role up features.

did you replace the alternator?
they are one of the first things to go on reverse voltage.

and replace the battery?

there are several reverse polarity protection diodes in the ravs so as long as you did not go a larger value fuse
test or disconnect the modules and reconnect a few at a time to track down the unit that is shutting things down.

 

[lyrica]

lyrica

sorry late to the party
a diode is like a directional check valve.
and can be used to limit current as well as many other features.

a incandescent test light works best to make sure the power is good hard power.
it will load the ckt just a few mills of current.

trace down the power a bit at a time.

does the rav have remote start? if it does then check or replace that remote start unit some remote start units have auto window role up features.

did you replace the alternator?
they are one of the first things to go on reverse voltage.

and replace the battery?

there are several reverse polarity protection diodes in the ravs so as long as you did not go a larger value fuse
test or disconnect the modules and reconnect a few at a time to track down the unit that is shutting things down.

lyrica

sorry late to the party
a diode is like a directional check valve.
and can be used to limit current as well as many other features.

a incandescent test light works best to make sure the power is good hard power.
it will load the ckt just a few mills of current.

trace down the power a bit at a time.

does the rav have remote start? if it does then check or replace that remote start unit some remote start units have auto window role up features.

did you replace the alternator?
they are one of the first things to go on reverse voltage.

and replace the battery?

there are several reverse polarity protection diodes in the ravs so as long as you did not go a larger value fuse
test or disconnect the modules and reconnect a few at a time to track down the unit that is shutting things down.

too funny... thats the exact first thought I had when I saw your message notification on my email...
'a little late to the party' lol brought some good new stuff to the table though