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Discussion Starter #1
When I had my 4.1 I didn't want to drill the bumper to mount my driving lites, so after some consideration, I figured I could hang them from the factory roof racks. Hanging them didn't interfere with the use of the roof racks.... :wink: What a difference in lighting!!!......no wonder off roaders put them there!.....must have something to do with the angle to the road.....
Interested?.......pics are in my album..... :shock:

Comments.....
......yes, I know ya can't use them on the highway there, but on back roads it was great!
 

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Jim... when I first saw the photo of your roof rack mounted fog lights (last night BEFORE you posted this message), my thought was that they probably shine off the roof soooooo much that they are useless :shock: But after reading your message saying they work great... and rethinking their placement, I guess they would be pretty good for OFF ROAD use. In fact, similar placement I had (back in the day) when I owned my Chevy 4x4 pick-ups. I had Daylighters mounted on the roll-bar. Mounted this far back, they also help light up the road to the side of the vehicle :D

Nice job 8)
 

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Another way to install driving or fog lights without drilling front bumber is to install a front guard bar like this one on this picture.




Some of them have place to bolt lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I should clarify that the mounts are hose-clamped to the "front" of the roof rack before someone picks me up on it......there wasn't enough clearance under the bar and as is there was only a 1/4" between them and the roof.

Kelly: I'd love to put something big like the Daylighters up there but I was trying to be subtle.......and retain the full use of the roof rack.

Joel: Back when I put them up there, there wasn't a lot of RAV accessories around here......still aren't.....

Mohit: You guys have such neat cars and accessories down under. How are the fire battles going?......near you?
 

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Awesome mod. Jim! :D I was contemplating doing the same thing to some driving lights that I have laying around (Hella FF75), they appear to be small enough to fit under my Thule bars. I once had them mounted on my nudge bar, but was disappointed with their output when compared to my HID headlights.

By the way, I can't tell from your pictures, but where did you run the wires into the car? It is such a clean install that I can't even see the wires! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Derek: I knew someone would ask about wiring :lol:
The pic was taken before the wiring was finished. I brought the wires from the end of the rack, ahead to the B-pillar and down the pillar to a 2-prong trailer plug just below the bottom edge of the windows. I covered the wires with "black" electrical tape on the "black" pillar, so one could hardly see anything with doors open......wiring was out of sight with doors closed except for the 10 inches or so....B-pillar to roof rack.
Now the fun part......other side of the trailer plug had a ground coming from one of the bolts on the rear door hinge...backed it out a bit and used a big stak-on for max contact. The hot lead was a little harder and longer.......from the hot side of the plug, it went thru an insulated male-female stak-on and then into the rubber bellows rubber that carries power window wires to the rear door. I carefully forced a pull wire into the bellows, and pulled one end of it out on the inside of the B-pillar door post, after removing the plastic moulding. There's a lot of delicate wiring in there so one has to be careful.....also the seat belt mechanism and seat belt tighteners. Pulled my hot lead thru, taping it out of the way of everything, and then thru the bottom of the driver's door framing. (What is that trough for wires atop the rocker panel called???) Brought it behind the kick panel to an under dash relay, I installed. Now I had to decide whether to pick off +12v from the fuse block or go thru the firewall to the battery..........figured the rear defroster fuse and wiring was hi current so I used one of those piggyback fuse holders on it for supply. Figured the voltage loss would be the same either way.
Relay control was thru 2 switches added to the dummies left of the steering column. One switch was wired to the same defroster fuse thru a blocking diode for normal on/off operation. Other switch was wired thru another blocking diode to the high beam lead at the left headlite. I hate fumbling for a switch in the dark when I meet oncoming traffic.....this way when I switched the high beams off, the roof lites go off. If both switches were mistakenly left on, the blocking diodes would prevent the high beam from coming on. The stak-ons at the B-pillar allowed me to easily remove the wiring there when removing the roof racks.

Aren't you sorry you asked :lol: ....figured I explain the whole thing.....didn't think it would be THIS long..... :oops: :oops: :oops:
Anyone fall asleep reading it....Z-Z-Z..... :wink:
 

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Thanks for clarifying the wiring Jim! :D

If I mount driving lights on my roof rack, I was planning on routing it down the A-pillar. The wires would run underneath the black plastic strip on the roof towards the front A-pillar. It would then go through the OEM antenna mount and down the A-pillar inside the car.

The reason that I would mount it down the antenna mount is that I have an aftermarket roof mount antenna in the back of my RAV, and the OEM antenna is no longer needed. Well... that is the plan anyways. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hey Derek
I like your idea for routing the wires under the black plastic strip and down the inside of the A-pillar......the less showing the better!! 8)
 
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