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Discussion Starter #1
I am planning to service my car this weekend(change oil + filter, air filter, spark plugs + wires).
1)Because I live in the caribbean I want to use 10w30 oil, is this a good choice.
2)How do I get the spark plugs out(never seen sparkplugs before that are so deep in the enigine), can I buy the tool at any car parts store(what size is it) or do I have to go toyota for that.
3)Can I buy the spark plug wires at the stores as well, never seen any like these before either
 
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1) not sure, 5w30 works well for me, but not sure ijf oil runs thinner because its warmer there. 5w30 is reccomended by toyota.

2) Got a ratchet? You need to have a plug adapter (its a special end, be sure to have just the right one though, its a tight squeeze, I had to use 4 different ones till I found one that fit in the hole). To get to the plugs you will need an extention on there (not sure on the proper name). Come out pretty easy, putting them in is a little trickier. All of these are pretty standard to any decent ratchet set.

3) Yes. If you have a Napa (or similar) they will be able to look it up and get you the right wires. Most will have at least OEM wires.

If you need any clarification let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I read that 5w-30 is recommended for outside temperatures between -20F/-29C and 60F/16C and that 10w-30 is for temperatures between 0F/-18C and +100F/+38C
 
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I did my plugs on the Rav4 last weekend, I used a ratchet and extension to loosen them. Then I used a piece of hose, shoved it down the hole and over the end of the plug to withdraw it. To reinsert them I stuck them into the end of the hose, then used the hose to turn them in until they stopped and then tensioned them up with the ratchet............5 minutes max
 
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You really should have the spark plug adapter for a ratchet (deep well socket I believe is the real name). This will work on almost all spark plugs. The peice looks like a longer than normal socket. On the inside it is rubber. This grips around the spark plug, and won't dammage it like is possible with using a normal socket. An added benifet is that it holds the plug inside itself, so when you are taking it out, it comes out inside the socket. Nice with how deep our are. Like I said before, just watch out for the size of a hole we have to get to it. It is a little thinner, so there are some that won't work. This is a part that comes with most socket sets. And if you don't have it, go to the retailer, find one, and buy it. Its worth it.

Another tool, and this is for the finer touch. is a torque (torsion?) wrench. It will allow you to dial in exactly how tight to get the plug in there. Believe it or not there is a specfic spec for that. Don't have the book in front of me, otherwise I would tell you.

As for the 10w30, I have run it on occasion, it works alright. If you get your oil changed every 6 grand or so, you shouldn't have many problems with either grade. But due to your temperature range, it may work better.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I bought the special socket for the spark plugs with the rubber inside, it worked great.
Changed the spark plug + wires, air filter and the PCV valve today.
Tomorrow I will change the oil + the oil filter.
At the shop the recommend me the 10w-30 oil as well because of the temperature here(30 degrees Celcius every day)

I noticed when i took out the old spark plugs the had a dual electrode, the new ones had only a single one. Does this make a difference(I don't notice a difference while driving).

Is there anything else to change(50.000 kilometers)
 
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There shouldn't be a diffrence to my knowledge, although if there is, someone please correct me. Basically the gap is the biggest thing to worry about with the pluugs, but I found that the Rav's engine is rather forgiving about that.

I am sure the 10w30 works great down there. I am from northern Michigan, so our tempratures are from -2 F to 98 F on average. I have to run 5w30 in the winter, 10 is to thick. But I have run both just fine in the summers.

The back of the Rav's owner manual should have all the scheduled maitanence listed. Another good thing to get, esspecially if you do your own repairs, is a Hayne's manual. It will have pretty much everything you will need to know in there. I highly reccomend getting one. not sure if Chilton has one for the Ravs or not.
 

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It's prpbably a bit late for this now, but when changing the plugs I used some dilectric grease on the boot to keep the water out and make sure they pop off easy the next time, and some anti-seize on the spark plug threads so they will also come out easily next time. Just a thought.
 
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Just got a Chilton manual for US and Canadian spec Ravs. I'm in UK, but the basics are still the same. Amazon has them in stock.
 
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I agree with ian g, antiseize grease is a must with aluminum heads. Usually just torque the plugs 2-3lb/ft higher than spec when using it. It'll help next time you change plugs or if the car overheats. Dielectric grease is also important. If you ever degrease or wash your engine, use it.
 
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