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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I’ve already read the threads on these issues below but still have a few questions.
I want to start my next set of servicing tasks except for brake line flushing & Power steering flushing which I will leave for the mechanic.

Here are a couple of questions I have.

Flushing the Engine Coolant

- Where is the drain on the engine block?
- (60-40) What is the measurement of coolant and water?

Transfer Case, Differential

I want to put Mobil 1 synthetic. What is the oil specs 85w-90 or 75w-90?
How tough is it to get access the fill bolt on the transfer case (above the muffler)?

Repair Manual

Who makes a good repair manual for the RAV4?

Thnx, Walt
 
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Coolant flush
- drain is on the engineblock is to the right of the oil filter and left of the exhaust manifold outlet (just above where the oilpan an engineblock mate.

- i use only toyota (red) coolant. 60% coolant and 40% distilled water

Transfer case, Diff
- go to you local autoparts store an buy a hand pump.

Repair manual
- only factory will do. very expensive i know. here is a trade secret = follow this link http://techinfo.toyota.com/. subscribe for the 3day and download what you need.

EXTRA INFO
-brake flush is not hard to do and not worth paying the dealer to do. also if you have a maunal trans flush the clutch fluid at the same time because the brakes an clutch share the same reservoir.

-power steering flush is not hard to do either.

hope this helps you.

FYI - me = toyota trained sevice tech

:D
 

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Coolant- IIRC there is a drain on the back/bottom of the radiator towards the driver's side, and there is a drain plug on the passenger's side of the engine block somewhere near the oil pan. You can use Toyota red coolant or Prestone yellow (the all makes/models type, that's what I use), just don't use the old-style green coolant. If you use straight coolant, make sure the cooling system is drained out, and fill it up with one full gallon of coolant. Then just fill the rest with distilled water until you get the level up. I think that ends up to be about a 60/40 mix which is perfect. Don't worry about burping the system, all of the air will work its way out.

As for the transfer case and diffs, they can take 75W-90 or 80W-90 so long as it's GL5 rated, which means you are fine with the Mobil 1 gear oil. Get the gear oil pump, it costs about $10 but will save you so much trouble. I believe the rear diff drain/fill plugs are 10mm recessed hex and the transfer case drain/fill plugs are 24mm hex.

With regard to the transfer case, do you have an automatic or manual transmission? I have a manual, and to reach the drain plug I had to unbolt the exhaust pipe at the cat and shift it over a couple of inches. To reach the fill plug, I used something like 18" of extensions on the socket wrench.

Repair manual- get the genuine Toyota manuals, Haynes and Chilton are crap. You can either download them off the techinfo site or find hard copies of the toyota FSM's on eBay for $100 or less. They are not 100% perfect but are a hell of a lot better than the Haynes/Chilton versions, which all seem to be based on a complete teardown and rebuild of a 1985 Ford Ranger no matter what version you get.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Onikaze & Jeff

I tried the Website but I could not seem to find the TIS 3 days test drive form. :?

Did you guys place any Teflon tape on the rear recessed hex,
Or are there any washers on the recessed hexs ?
And is a torque of about 35 lbs sufficient?

Is there a washer to replace on the engine block bolt (coolant)?

Thanks again,

Walt :D
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Repair manual
- only factory will do. very expensive i know. here is a trade secret = follow this link http://techinfo.toyota.com/. subscribe for the 3day and download what you need.
Sorry misunderstood that one and though it was free :lol: I will double check the cost and see wether i will buy the book or subscribe.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It took awhile to find Mobil 1 Synthetic gear oil here in TO but i finally found it at a lube shop.
However, i think it's strange that they don't have any aluminum tamper proof seals. :eek:
 

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No teflon thread tape needed on the plugs. The recessed hex plugs use metal washers just like the regular hex plugs. If you are careful and the washers are not damaged, you can clean them off and reuse them. I almost always reuse the washers, except I did replace a couple the last time I changed the manual transmission oil because they were busted up pretty good. I think the torque spec for all the plugs is about 27 ft-lbs. No washer on the engine block because it's actually a drain cock and all you have to do is open/close it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
After your directions I easily found the engine drain (coolant) today. So hopefully tomorrow i get the time to do the flush and then it's time to crawl under the car for the gear fluid change.

When i was running around for the Mobil 1 was shown a Limited slip diff. additive. Even though i have LSD the Lube guy said that it's not necessary with the Mobil 1 synthec.

As for my steering and brake fluid i have about 3 yrs. / 15,000 k and i think i will wait until next year for that job.

Cheers, Walt :D
 

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Did the Coolant and rear diff today :D

I used my air gun to pump the oil into the rear diff. Took exactly 1 quart.

As for the transfer case i will have to remove a section of the exhaust pipe to get to the fill bolt.
 

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Have to do my rear-diff and what you said Walt too.

I'm also going to pop on a set of shocks in the rear while I'm at it. Onikaze is it common for the shocks to be worn out but not leaking on the RAV for 2001?

M.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Marc, the rear was easy.

My driveway is abit slanted in 2 directions so i had to level it out.
The car that is :lol:

The Front diff, well it's kinda tough to get at. I lifting it, took off the front Pass wheel and then removed the 2 exhaust bolts up at the manifold so i could shift the pipe to get the filler bolt with a wrench. If i had the right sockets, maybe i could have skipped that part.
Then I found out that i did not have a 1" wrench or socket, so i ended up knocking on neighbors doors.

Both the front transfer case and rear diff took 1 liter each, and boy was that oil black. The coolant I changed 2 days ago did not look to bad.

Wherever i was working under the car i had my Rust Inhibitor spray with me to touch up any spots missed by the pro's. It's been 3 years now and she still looks pretty good under the car.

Cheers, Walt
 
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