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i got the key code off the drivers lock cylinder to order an emergency blade key. It took about one minute to do.:smile As mentioned in the below post.

New Toyota Lexus Smart Emergency Insert Blade Cut Laser Blank Key Code Cutting | eBay

NOTE: the video won't open in FF browser but will in Chrome.:surprise

Ordered the key from the website and found that you have to use the "sent message button" to give vendor the key code and the number type of key needed.:smile
 

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Thank you for this thread, it saved me a lot of money.

I bought a used fob of off ebay. Matched up the details HYQ14FBA g transmitter board, 281451-0020. Only the 3rd button didn't match up trunk release/lift gate. I was mad at myself and thought this e bay key might not work [attached]. The seller assured me that this was an unlocked one, meaning it can be programmed to another vehicle.

Dealer failed to program the used fob, as expected, they were nice enough not to charge me though, but they were still very disingenuous they told me a used fob cannot be programmed into a different vehicle. They were asking C$400 for a new programmed fob, C$120 for a cut emergency key.

I live in the Surrey area, i contacted about 5-6 locksmiths (i was scared to do DIY) all of them avoided to program used fob like a plague. Century locksmith was the only one willing to program a used fob, got an appointment, he got it to work in 20 minutes.

Overall cost wasn't even half of the dealership price C$250.

One question though, is it possible to program the trunk release to function like a lift gate button? Thank you all!
 

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in regards to kranerie's post

Since your FOB was programed does it open your rear hatch? I would think it should. Remember to hold down the FOB button for the trunk/hatch. It looks like you have an SUV but bought a sedan FOB. Not sure if it matters.

Don't know if there are customer features for the FOB.
 

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I didn't realize i have bought a sedan FOB which has the trunk release until it arrived, totally my fault.

I thought matching the part number and transmitter type was all there is to it.

Everything else works fine, lock/unlock, alarm, engine start, i have a 2013 RAV4 limited with the touch start.
But nothing happens when i hold down the button for trunk/hatch. The e bay fob can't open the lift gate/rear hatch like the original remote.
 

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I didn't realize i have bought a sedan FOB which has the trunk release until it arrived, totally my fault.

I thought matching the part number and transmitter type was all there is to it.

Everything else works fine, lock/unlock, alarm, engine start, i have a 2013 RAV4 limited with the touch start.
But nothing happens when i hold down the button for trunk/hatch. The e bay fob can't open the lift gate/rear hatch like the original remote.
Unfortunately, it looks like the FOB matters. I would imagine that the latch for the SUV is stronger than the one for the sedan and the power actuator reflects that fact.
 

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Got my emergency blade key that I mentioned in post 61. Cost $21.95 with free shipping. It came by 1st class mail from Sugar Land, TX to New York. Ordered on Wed 4-27-16 they mailed it on Thur 4-28-16 and got it today Wed 5-04-16.
Tried it and it works on trunk and driver door. :smile

Total cost $130 for FOB (new and virgin from on-line Toyota dealer), plus $21.95 for key for a total of $151.95 for my extra Smart Key FOB. I had the Techstream with Windows XP 32 bit on a laptop.:serious
 

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Got my 2 used fobs now in my hands from ebay with all the right matching numbers. Just checked the date my original order for a Mangoose cable (china) was shipped and it's been one month and still not here. I just emailed obd365.com to tell them. I also ordered another one from china, an xhorse copy, with a better firmware version, 2.0.4 I think, but it's still on it's way also. I'll be using weboctopus.nl for the passcode when I get one of those cables. Frustrating waiting over a month.
 

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OK, got my china cable. Want to install the 32 bit driver on my win7 64 bit pc but the driver (MVCI Driver for TOYOTA 1.4.8.msi) has 9 virus threats on Virustotal.com, but this driver is everywhere on the net and I see no one stating it is a threat. The said driver file is 5,960,704 bytes in size. Can anyone confirm this driver is ok to install please. I also found another driver (MVCI Driver for TOYOTA-CABLE 2.0.1.msi) which has 7 virus threats! Which one do I install?
 

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tyee in regards to your post. Vaguely recall that I tried to install a 32 bit driver on my 64 bit window 7 but I couldn't get it to install.

It was probably good that it didn't. Most people recommend getting an old window 32 bit XP laptop which I did and only use it for the techstream and not use the internet with the XP machine.

I disable anti virus the old XP machine when I installed the techstream and disable it every time I use it on the vehicle or the techstream . It shows a virus otherwise and won't work. There is mention of a virus showing up with the techstream BUT most people believe it to be a false positive but who knows?

I would be fearful of using the techstream on my everyday laptop.
 

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I'm using an old win7 64 bit laptop and I can follow post 1 instructions to manually install but just wondering why so many virus warnings. I'm going to open up the msi driver using an unpacker and then scan each file individually to see which is causing the warnings. I will post here so others can learn.

Looks like FirmwareUpdateTool.exe and mvci32.dll have the viruses. Another site says probably false positive. Malwarebytes says it's clean.

Went ahead and followed the instructions in post1, everything went well so far, going to try and connect to the car now.

Yesterday, connect went well for viewing. Today I will do the smart key reset and see what happens. First thing is replace all fob batteries with new ones. I read it can fail if batteries are low.

Update - Everything went well! I now have 4 smart keys, two ebay used ones and the two original ones. One of the ebay ones was a Lexus smart key, but it had all the correct numbers and it worked no problem. I programmed the two used ones first then the originals. I got a communication error when I went to program the first key, so had to go back one screen and start over but after that no problem doing them all one after the other. I'm not sure what they are trying to do when after you program it they say to put in on the seat. Is it still being programmed on the seat or is that just to get it out of the way, and is that far enough? I put it on the seat, ran to get the next one about 20 feet away, then put the one on the seat outside the car and proceeded to program the next one.
I also ran the communication check as described in post 1 after all were programmed to make sure the proximity detectors were picking up the keys. The detector beeps if it picks up the key and they all worked. So...thanks to all in this thread. I used weboctopus.nl for the passcode and it worked first time. I had a wired internet connection out to my laptop in the car. My MiniVCI cable did have firmware version 2.0.4 which supports other functions supposedly but any cable should work for smart key programming.
 

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Tyee ,congratulations, take Monday 5-23-16, off (Canadian Holiday, Victoria Day) for all your hard work.:smile

They tell you to put it on the seat for a time element to pass and the Techstream on the cpu to state that a connection was made. There is a video I believe in this thread that shows it. The gent in the video had to wait 30 seconds for a connection.

However, my programing went lighting fast. I put the new key next to the push button and immediately heard two beeps and the Techstream on the cpu stated a connection was made. I had no need for the seat wait part.:surprise

Some people use foil on the fob instead of moving the fobs 4 feet away. I tested foil on the fob and it does work.:smile
 

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So, This is not a smart-key solution, but something I just found out:
I wanted to get a naked/plain key to put somewhere in case I lock my keys in my RAV.
I went to the local hardware store and for $59, I got a replacement key. It does not have the buttons, but has something special in it.

I then asked for a plain key - and it was cut. I checked both, and both work.

Here's the wild thing: The plain key, that I'd originally planned to hide on the frame, works without any problem.
The other keys are nowhere near the car and everything works.
I may be showing my ignorance here, but it was my understanding that I had to buy the special keys as they were the only kind that work.

I prefer the plain keys - less bulky.

2008 Rav4
 

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Your profile shows you have a Base Rav4. The Base in 2008 did not come with a transponder key, so they plain keys will work fine.

What is puzzling is if the local hardware store sold you a $59 key with "something special" in it, it would have needed to be programmed. Didn't they say something about that?

If they tried cloning your original key, they would have known there was no transpoder in it.

At least, now you know a plain key is all you need.
 

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If you see a Security LED light blinking every second (when the car is not running) just below the radio then there is a immobilizer. If you have an immobilizer you need to program a key. Models without this feature can use a plain key (no chip inside) to start and open the car. A vehicle with an immobilizer can still use a plain key to open manually (if you have a fob key that must be program so those buttons will work) outside door but not start the car.
 

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Thanks for the information - I wasn't sure what to do.

I stopped by the dealer - I found out that my car does not need a special key - the simply metal key will work just fine.
And, the key that I was given by previous owner was a duplicate, not original.

Good news: keys can be replaced for $2.99 for my base model 2008.
 

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Has anyone had any success with using an XP emulator to run Techstream?

All my current laptops and computers have more recent versions of Windows on them or are Macs or running Linux. I'm not even sure I have XP to install on any of them any more to dual boot, and I'm loath to buy yet another computer with XP pre-installed just for this if I can help it (I will if I have to, though, as only having one key is making me twitchy!).
 

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If you still have a Windows XP license # (often found on the case of an old machine)... and you have a windows installation disk, you can download Virtual Machine and install it with windows in a separate partition on your hard drive. That is what I ended up doing. It took me a good part of a day to set it up, but I eventually got it to work and have programmed keys for my 09 RAV.
 

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Has anyone had any success with using an XP emulator to run Techstream?

All my current laptops and computers have more recent versions of Windows on them or are Macs or running Linux. I'm not even sure I have XP to install on any of them any more to dual boot, and I'm loath to buy yet another computer with XP pre-installed just for this if I can help it (I will if I have to, though, as only having one key is making me twitchy!).
If you run XP or Win7 (32 bit), installation is a breeze. The drivers install automatically. Trying to run emulators or virtual machine etc is just asking for lots of work and headaches. Try borrowing a friends laptop if you can that has the proper O/S.
 

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looking for some input - my circuit board and spare key are okay but the physical plastic surrounding broke. any way i can get a replacement housing only?
 
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