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Discussion Starter #1
I'm going to install a Alpine KTP-44u amp in my 2017 SE, I've replaced all six speakers, as far as wiring the power lead to the battery, has anyone put a on/off switch on the amp so it's not on all the time and any other suggestion. Thank you
 

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What speakers did you use? Am planning on doing the same thing.
Do you notice any difference?
 

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I'm not very familiar with this unit but just looked it up. Where are you connecting it to the power supply? It looks like most people do it right behind the headunit and use the power to the headunit to power the amp. If this is true, wouldn't the amp only turn on when the car is running since this is how the headunit turns on?

It's a little tricky to tell which unit exactly you're talking about because the model you provided doesn't seem to exist. If it is actually the ktp445u and not the ktp44u that you mention then if you look at page 6 in the below link, there is a "remote turn on wire" (blue/white). Connecting this wire to any wire that only turns on when the car is running or in A/C mode will only turn the amp on when the car is running.

https://assets.sonicelectronix.com/manuals/alpine/headunits/ktp445u_manual.PDF

Either way, a switch shouldn't be needed. If it is not the amp I assume, then look at the manual and check for a "remote turn on wire". I am pretty sure that most units have this. Connect this to a wire that only turns on when the car is on.

I have a 5 channel amp in my spare tire area that I installed 2 years ago and I have it connected to one of the cigarette outlets I believe. Mine only turns on when the key is in the full start mode in the ignition instead of just in the first spot. I prefer it this way because I don't really want my 500w amp running if the car isn't running as well.

Edit* sorry, I just looked at the image again and there are 2 remote turn on wires.(Labeled as #7 and #11 on page 6) One is the signal to turn the amp on and one is a signal to send somewhere else to do the same. I believe #7 is the output and #11 is the one you want to use to turn the amp on.
 

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What speakers did you use? Am planning on doing the same thing.
Do you notice any difference?
I used4 Kicker 6''3/4 240 watt( DSC670) in the doors, kicker 3'' 1/2( KSC350) for the dash( on sale), the sound was a little bit better, I called Crutchfields( a little disappointed with them), they said I needed to use an amp since Kicker speakers are power hungry, I purchased the alpine KTP-445U amp on e-bay( cheaper than Crutchfields) and now I need to wire the amp up. So to keep the amp not on all the time I'm looking for a switch so that I can shut the amp off when the SE is nt in use.
 

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I used4 Kicker 6''3/4 240 watt( DSC670) in the doors, kicker 3'' 1/2( KSC350) for the dash( on sale), the sound was a little bit better, I called Crutchfields( a little disappointed with them), they said I needed to use an amp since Kicker speakers are power hungry, I purchased the alpine KTP-445U amp on e-bay( cheaper than Crutchfields) and now I need to wire the amp up. So to keep the amp not on all the time I'm looking for a switch so that I can shut the amp off when the SE is nt in use.
See the second half of my post above. You do not need a switch. Connecting the "remote turn on wire" correctly will turn the amp on and off with the car.
 

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See the second half of my post above. You do not need a switch. Connecting the "remote turn on wire" correctly will turn the amp on and off with the car.
Where did you connect the Yellow power wire ( direct to the battery or some where else in the front ) and the is also a blue/white wire on the RCA input speaker harness. The manual can be confusing. How did you set up your amp.
 

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Where did you connect the Yellow power wire ( direct to the battery or some where else in the front ) and the is also a blue/white wire on the RCA input speaker harness. The manual can be confusing. How did you set up your amp.
lol my amp is a bit different than yours. I also re wired all of my speakers too. We won't go there though. I was just trying to answer your question.

But per the instructions for the yellow wire(also on page 6 of the pdf I linked)
a. Connect battery lead to OEM radio fused circuit
The OEM radio circuit has a fuse to protect your
vehicle's electrical system in case of a short circuit. Do
not connect the battery lead to the OEM radio circuit if
the fuse rating is less than 15A.
b. Connect battery lead directly to BATT+
Be sure to add a 15A fuse (sold separately) as close as
possible to the battery's ( +) terminal.
I believe that your stock radio has a 20amp fuse. This points me to believe that you can just splice it into the power wire of your radio? You can look in the fuse box under the hood to verify the fuse to the radio. If it is 20amp, I would splice the power wire to the radio and drop it in there. (to put it into perspective, I have a 90amp fuse inline on mine)

If uncomfortable doing that, you can hook the yellow wire to the battery. I know in my 2014 it was a pain in the ass to get a 4 gauge wire through the nipple grommet and into the inside of the car, but maybe your thin wire would be easier. There may even be some sort of tool for thinner wires.

Something like this would probably make it easier to get through the firewall/grommet hole. There are cheaper options, just pointing you in the right direction so you're not swearing during your install. The grommet hole I speak of is by the drivers side left foot and up.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4462-Wire-Loom-Threading/dp/B00IAQ1Q54/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KYKWAR6K1MQT82BD671K

It looks like a pretty simple install though.

Hopefully someone with better knowledge of the head unit wires can help you if you need something there.

Where are you sticking this amp at?
 
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