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Hi all... had a little problem this morning. My 2000 Rav 4 stalled as I came to a stop at a Red light. Put it in Park and then started with no problems. 15 minutes later, same thing was going on when I put it into Park and starting giving gas... this keept the engine from stalling, but if I stopped giving gas, I felt as though the car was going to stall again...

Any ideas on what could be casuing this? I have about 55K Miles on the car.

Thanks
Rocket
 
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...Sounds like a vacuum/air leak. Did you do anything under the hood prior to this happening?

To check for vacuum leak -this is an old way, start engine and keep rpm up, crimp each vacuum hoses with a plier untill engine rpm drops. Good luck man...
 
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All I did was fuel up and add windshield washer fluid last night! However, I did fuel up at a different gas station...

Rocket
 

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I don't really know anything about cars, but although my car is a 4.2, I think it'll apply here. My car is only 2 years old, and I had problems starting because it was stalling quite a bit, but it didn't happen very often. When I put the key in the ignition, it wouldn't start, did that twice, and the third time it did, but started to stall so I stepped on the gas a little (don't know if you're supposed to do that :oops: ) I talked to a mechanic friend of mine, and he asked me if I went to a different gas station, like the very cheap ones, and that probably my fuel injectors were dirty, so he recommended me to buy a bottle of techron and add it to the gas. It helped. But like I said, this might not be the same case here, but just thought of putting my 2 cents, hehe :)

Miriam
 
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Rocket said:
All I did was fuel up and add windshield washer fluid last night! However, I did fuel up at a different gas station...

Rocket
It shouldn't make any difference unless it's gasoline. :D

Try the vacuum check...I'm almost sure it's an air leak.
 

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Welcome, Rocket! My husband (Ricky, a/k/a RLJSLICK) sent you a message over on the Trail Talk forums to come here, but I see you've found your way here already.

I'm sure the folks here will be able to help you, there's LOTS of knowledgable folks here. In the meantime, do you think there's any possibility that the problem could've been caused by bad gas and/or water in the tank?

Becky
 
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mine does this too, but only when it is cold on start up, it has been doing it since we bought the car in 2000 at 36 k miles. It used to stall. AFter blasting it down the road now it idles too high when cold. I think it could be the idle control valve getting stuck open or closed?
 
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Rocket said:
Hi all... had a little problem this morning. My 2000 RAV 4 stalled as I came to a stop at a Red light. Put it in Park and then started with no problems. 15 minutes later, same thing was going on when I put it into Park and starting giving gas... this keept the engine from stalling, but if I stopped giving gas, I felt as though the car was going to stall again...

Any ideas on what could be casuing this? I have about 55K Miles on the car.

Thanks
Rocket
:mrgreen: Welcome Rocket!

The first things to check are easy to check/replace...the air filter, intake hose, and the PCV. After that, the next possiable problem is a dirty/carbonized ICV(Idle Control Valve). That is fairly easy to clean too. If you need any help doing these, let me know. I went thru this very problem on my '97, and as it turns out, it's pretty common with our RAVs, as well as, 4cyl Camrys. :? But, it's not too hard to fix... :wink:

Here's what I went thru(posted at RAV4oz.com).... http://www.compact4wd.com/rav4oz/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1092

Let me know if you need help, we'll get it fixed up for ya' 8) By the way, a bottle of "dry gas" never hurts, it could be that simple.

JayV
 
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What RPM should be the idle...???

Hi all... thanks for all the replys, but my problem is NOT at start up. My Rav stalled ONLY once the engine was warm, about 15 minutes after driving off from home.

Another quick question... at what RPM should my Rav be idling at? Once the engine is warmed up... not at start up...

Thanks again.
Rocket
 
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Mine idles anywhere from 700RPMs to 1100 RPMs depending on if the engine is warmed up or not.
 

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This info applies to the AZFE engine in the 4.2 Rav, but it should be the same for the 3SFE engine in the 4.1 Rav. However someone can correct me if I'm wrong.

According to Toyota specs, the engine should idle at about 700 RPM plus or minus 50, so anywhere between 650 and 750 RPM is within specs. This is after the engine has warmed up, with the cooling fans, A/C compressor, and any high current draw accessories turned off. When the A/C comprssor is on, the engine should idle-up to about 750 RPM. Also, when there is a lot of current draw on the electrical system (such as when the headlights are on) the idle speed may dip a little because there is more strain on the alternator.
 

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Yup, my 2000 auto (78k km) idles at about 750 rpm when warm. I've only owned it since the end of Nov, but I haven't had any driveability issues. Sure does like gas though (18-19 mpg US, 13 l/100 km).
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Re: What RPM should be the idle...???

Rocket said:
Hi all... thanks for all the replys, but my problem is NOT at start up. My RAV stalled ONLY once the engine was warm, about 15 minutes after driving off from home.

Another quick question... at what RPM should my RAV be idling at? Once the engine is warmed up... not at start up...

Thanks again.
Rocket
Mine idles at 500-600rpm on my '97. :wink: This is the '96 & '97s normal idle speed. Now, I know you do not have a starting problem, but they are very related, and involve the same parts. :wink: And, over time, you will develop a starting problem if not dealt with. If you read deep into that post, you'll see that my RAV also stalled while warm, and that's where the mechanic find found the problem. You just haven't got to the stalling part of the problem yet...I'm tring to keep you from getting there. :wink:
 
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arlok789 said:
then how would you go about cleaning the idle control valve? if you wana post it or email it to me that doesn't matter. [email protected]
Everybody, here is instructions on how to clean the ICV from "Yota Repair" Website
***Credit to Mensagero for finding this site awile back.***


You will need to purchase some carb cleaner from a parts store or some place like WalMart or Kmart. Then you have to have someone help you start the engine and kind of keep it running if needed. The process requires that you take the large black tube off the throttle body and unplug the Idle Air Control Motor. Caution, if you have no idea of what I just described do not proceed without having someone there to assist you. You then take the carb spray and spray a little into the small square hole you will find in the throttle body opening. Have your helper start the engine while you hold the connector for the IAC to the valve so that it makes contact. When the engine is running spray into the square hole and at the same time make and break the contact with the IAC connector so that the cleaner gets into the working parts of the IAC. You know when its clean when you hear a louder rushing noise from the throttle body when the connector is making the IAC work or open. Then all you have to do is clean the area and inside of the throttle body with a tooth brush (old one is preferred) and connect everything. Your check engine light will be on so when you shut the engine off open the fuse panel under the hood and remove the EFI fuse for about 30 sec. and it should clear. If it does not then turn the key to the on position and try it that way.


:) Any Q's? Let me know. :wink:
 
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Discussion Starter #16
I took my 97 rav4 to a mechanic to ask how much he would charge to clean the IAC and he said that these newer IACs weren't designed to be cleaned cuz the plastic parts can get damaged. Is this true, or is it more likely that he just doesn't know how to clean this specific model of idle control?

thanks,

-- J.
 

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eAspenwood said:
I took my 97 rav4 to a mechanic to ask how much he would charge to clean the IAC and he said that these newer IACs weren't designed to be cleaned cuz the plastic parts can get damaged. Is this true, or is it more likely that he just doesn't know how to clean this specific model of idle control?
I clean mine and my mechanic says they do too instead of replacing them.
 
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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks JonRav4. I guess I will try cleaning it myself. I'm fairly mechanically minded, but don't do much more than oil changes on my cars. Anything you care to add to the instructions? Looks pretty simple.
 
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