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Discussion Starter #1
My RAV4 has been getting harder to start. The car has a new battery and I know the starter works well.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
rav4 1
 

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And it was tuned up last when?
 

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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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Check the OBDII codes and see what it's trying to tell you. Does she run rough, idle poorly, idle fast, stall, what other symptoms does she have?
 

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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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To add to LugNut's request, observe the multimeter reading for the battery under starting load. A battery can look good voltage wise but not under load.

The same with alternator, while running turn everything on and observe your alternator output.
 

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When I first got my 99 RAV4, it took two to three cranks to start it especially if it sat for a day or two. Plus, the remote start almost never worked. It was just crank and crank. I pulled all the plugs and used a wire brush to clean them up and disconnected and reattached the wires a couple of time to rub anything off, and she started right up every time.

If your talking about a slow crank, definitely get a voltage draw reading at crank. You could have a new battery and good starter but have bad/corroded cables bleeding off voltage with excessive resistance.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
RAV4 Starting Problems

I checked the battery and it reads 14.6 volts after leaving on the headlights on for 2 minutes and if the car runs with a bunch of accesories on it reads 12.6 volts with a multimeter.
Starter is in good condition as is the alternator. I will get to change the spark plug wires with KGK 8916. I was thinking it might be a weak fuel pump that would cause hard cranking?
I also hope to put on LED Headlights/Tailights sometime next week.
Thanks for your replies!!
rav4 1
 

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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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So, you have an after market remote starter, could this be the source of your problem?

Check out:



and

 

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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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On a first gen RAV4 you don't drop the fuel tank, you tilt the rear seats forward, pull the carpet out of the way, take off the access panel on the driver's side (left side). The fuel pump access on the tank is bolted down, probably with a lot of rust, spray it down with breakfree or the like and take a break for a couple of hours, overnight is even better. Then all you have to do is take those bolts out with a nut driver or a 1/4 ratchet and socket, remove the fuel pump cover, unlike most modern fuel pumps this one is just the pump, so remove the pump and replace the strainer with a new strainer, put her all back together, make sure you put a little dielectric grease on those electrical connectors. Before you put the floorboard covers and everything back together, give her a test and see if she works.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I am thinking of checking a few things before I replace the fuel pump strainer.
1. Fuel Filter
2. Starter
3. Check Main #1 fuse
Anything else I missed?
Thanks,
rav4 1
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Starting Problems Update

I looked at the starter and I noticed that there was a nearby vacuum hose connected to some wiring and the hose was mostly cracked all the way through. Do you know of any part numbers for this hose? I will look on the OEM Toyota website to see if I can buy this hose or not as well.
Thanks,
rav4 1
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Forgot to mention

I think I want to replace both positive and negative battery cables and the terminals are also somewhat corroded.
You can also ignore my last post.
Thanks,
rav4 1
 

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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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Leaking vacuum lines and fuel evap lines will drive you nuts, it will throw all sorts of codes, make the engine run too fast, rough, or not at all. If you have a 4x4 it is more challenging to replace but it must be done. Don't buy vacuum lines from a dealer, unless you have a really thick wallet, just the ones for the 4x4 system is over $200.00, I replaced all mine for every system for less than $40.00 with higher quality high temp silicon lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Starting Problems Update

I had a look at the battery terminals and they are really corroded. Do you know of any good battery terminal cleaners or where I can buy new ones?
I also did a A/C Diagnosis and it looks like that I need to buy a new condenser, drier/drier bracket, High Pressure Switch, and a A/C Valve. Do you recommend any good brands?
3. Is it easy to replace any of these A/C parts I mentioned above?
4. Can you also give me part #'s for both the positive and negative battrey cables?
5. Any good brands of replacement brake/fuel line hoses?
Thanks for your help!
rav4 1
 

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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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1. I make my own battery terminals and grounds, saves money and I get to make them the lengths I want. (all from amazon.com) See my thread http://www.rav4world.com/forums/85-4-1-faults-fixes/247418-now-alternator-kaput.html
- I use a Forney 57637 Lug Crimping Tool (amazon.com) to crimp the large connectors and it works well.
- I upgraded my electrical to 2 gauge wires, 2 Gauge Premium Extra Flexible Welding Cable 600 VOLT COMBO PACK - BLACK+RED - 10 FEET OF EACH COLOR - EWCS Spec - Made in the USA!
- I used Install Bay Copper Ring Terminal 2 Gauge 3/8 Inch 10 Pack - CUR238 for positive terminal connections
- And Install Bay Copper Ring Terminal 2 Gauge 5/16 Inch 10 Pack - CUR2516 for negative connections

2. Look them up between amazon.com and rockauto.com to find the find the parts for the A/C.

3. These parts aren't serviceable unless you have the special tools and skills to do it. I usually buy the parts myself and take them to a mom & pop shop for installation.

4. See #1

5. Brake lines - for my brakes I used the following:
- 25 Ft. Roll / Coil of 3/16" Copper Nickel Brake Line Tubing (you will need more if you also have to do the front lines)(amazon.com)
- Metric Brake Line Invert Flare Fittings for 3/16" Tube. 10 x 1 mm (Pack of 10) (amazon.com)
- CTA Tools 9172 Pliers Type Tube Bender (amazon.com)
- GOCHANGE Mini Tube Cutter Slice Copper Aluminum Tubing Pipe Cutting Tool 3-22mm 1/8inch-7/8inch (amazon.com)
- Neiko 20657A ISO/Bubble Flaring Tool Kit, 9 Piece | Includes Blow-Molded Case (amazon.com)
- For the rubber lines, I used - Stainless Steel Brake Lines for (1996-2000) Toyota Rav4 (ebay.com)

I know I bought some specialized tools that I hopefully won't need too often but, it would have cost me a lot more had I paid someone for the repairs.

The Copper Nickel brake lines are cheaper, easier to work with, and don't oxidize rather than buying stainless steel or polysteel lines. Polysteel brake lines are going to oxidize anywhere the coating is compromised, don't go that route.

See my garage for details on all the repairs/upgrades I've made to my RAV4 - http://www.rav4world.com/forums/garage.php?do=viewvehicle&vehicle_id=8241

Start your own albums and garage, keep us posted on your progress.
 
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