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I have a 2004 RAV4 which came preinstalled with a Panasonic CQ-DF783U (as part of the Canadian Chili Special Edition). I hope somebody would be able to help me out with a few questions about stock speakers:

What exactly is the power rating (both RMS and peak) of the stock speakers? Honestly, the speakers sound pretty decent (even with the volume turned up 8)) with both the original (but now-decommissioned) Panasonic and the newly-installed Clarion DXZ545MP. They hold bass pretty well, but the treble doesn't come as clearly as the Clarion SRR1022 that I had in my old Tercel. I'm considering (albeit not seriously) about new speakers.

Also, from what I've read, the RAV4s in Canada come only with four speakers, not the six that the US editions come with. (I think the extra speakers that the US editions have and Canadian editions are missing are the satellite tweeters on the inside panels of the rearview mirrors.) Am I correct?

One more thing... I was browsing through the links of this site, and came across a site that states that the second-generation RAV4s have "hidden" amplifiers mounted behind the door panels. Can somebody confirm whether this holds true for the Canadian models as well? Would the blue (power) lead from aftermarket stereos be responsible to turning on these amps?

THANKS THANKS THANKS!!! :mrgreen:
 

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Heya EHinther604!

Great questions and concerns! I'll try to keep this short and to the point since I can go on and on about the "Numbers game", and plus I type too much anyways :eek: . The wattages, or "power handling" of speakers is just a number that manufactures totally take advantage of, and cannot reliably be used as a reference to how good(or loud!) a speaker will sound. The stock speakers that came in my '01 RAVie say 20W, 4 ohms. In no way does that mean any head unit that puts out 20W will be "perfect" for these speakers. Knowing the power handling of speakers and power output of amplifers is kinda like saying "I love oranges, so I'll love the taste of this apple because they're the same weight".

IMHO, the only way to really know how something will sound is to try it. You can take into consideration that the magnet size of a speaker will mean it can handle more amplifier power, but if you try to match speaker handling wattages with amplifer output wattages, you're narrowing your window of matching, plus in no way guaranteeing the best possible sound quality.

Also, everyone has different sound tastes... so it's easy to get everyone else's opinion on what is "best". If you are happy with the sound of the speakers you have, then there really shouldn't be any reason to spend money on other speakers that others like. So ideally, if you can get your ears to sample different flavors of speakers, you can tell which ones sound better to you and go from there. It's always better to let your ears decide what sounds better than to go by numbers. :D



Also just a little side note, if you Dynamat your doors to seal the air behind the installed speaker from reaching the front of the speaker, you'll increase your bass response drastically, regardless of what speakers you use. For such a simple and cheap thing to do, it's the absolute best modification you can do to any sound system to increase sound quality.



Hope I didn't saturate the subject and was able to help a little... and sorry if I type too much. Good luck, and Happy RAV'n!

..ChimChim
 
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Hi Chimchim!

Thanks very much for your information! I also have a habit of typing a little too much than necessary, hence my oroginal post. :lol:

Nowadays, automobile manufacturers install decent stock speakers, albeit not as good as aftermarket. I assume that your 2001 RAV4 has the same stock speakers as my 2004, even though Toyota included a high-power Panasonic deck (which I have since replaced with a Clarion 8)) with my option package.

What do I usually listen to on a regular basis? During the regular work week, I listen to AM in the drive to work and back :roll: but occasionally tune into a music FM station. However, when I'm out at night and on weekends, I play the radio or listen to tunes on my iPod - mostly R&B and hip-hop. I do play my system at a conservative level (since I prefer to give my undivided attention to city driving), although I might turn the volume up for some of my favourites. :D

Thanks again for your advice! I'm not exactly the most seasoned DYIer, but I hope to be very soon. 8)
 

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I have essentially the same Rav that ChimChim has, and I don't think the sound of the stock speakers is that bad, even after I have been beating on them for 4 years. Don't get me wrong, I know quite a bit about audio, and I have been planning on replacing them with Infinity's since I got the car, but money has been tight so I make do with them. I think my stock speakers might sound better than yours because of what you mentioned about the Canadian Ravs not coming with tweeters. I guess it's another Toyota oddity.

You should try a subwoofer first before tearing out the stock speakers. I also listen to rap and techno, in addition to many other genres of music, so I like my bass to have some punch at times. I installed a traditional 12" sub in the cargo area as soon as I got my Rav. Sprung for the good Q-logic box and 1200W Rockford Fosgate amp, but got the cheap Sony sub because I figured out of the three parts it was the most likely to get damaged first. Sounds pretty good with a lot of punch to it even after a few years of punishment. It does a good job of supplementing the stock speakers, because I have the sub handling most of the bass, leaving the stock speakers to handle mid and high range. Taking the stress of bass frequencies away from the speakers allows me to crank up the volume higher before they distort.

I would recommend getting a sub first, because it helps the stock speakers sound good. Then decide if you want to replace the speakers.

You also have to realize that most aftermarket head units don't put out a heck of a lot of power anyway, usually about 20 watts RMS and 40-50 watts peak. Most half decent stock speakers can handle this OK. Any audio buff will tell you that the RMS rating means more than the peak rating, because it is the maximum sustainable power. It's like saying "my car can hit 50 mph but only for a few seconds at a time, but it only cruises at 30 mph". You may have noticed that head units, amps, and speakers all have these two ratings. In theory, you should match the ratings of speakers and amps, which is what most people will say. It's a good rule of thumb because optimally the ratings should be similar. But as ChimChim said its not so terribly important that it should limit your choices. And if you're wondering, it's better to have an amp that has a higher power rating than the speakers, as opposed to speakers that can handle more power than the amp. Any decent set of aftermarket speakers can handle the power of most all aftermarket head units without any problem. So if you're going to upgrade the speakers, but still use the head unit to power them (as opposed to a separate amp) then you can go with any speakers you want as long as they are the right size for the car.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the insight, Jeff! :)

After living for nine long years on only a pair of 4" speakers on the door panels of my 1995 Tercel, even the stock speakers on my 2004 RAV4 are a breath of fresh air. 8) Again, the only complaint I have about the stock speakers on my RAV4 is that they don't hit the high notes as clearly as my Tercel's aftermarket 4" speakers (Clarion SRR1022, to be exact). Mind you, the 4"s in my Tercel sucked when it came to bass, but it got the job done during my university and early work years. Relatively speaking, however, all-around, my stock RAV4 speakers sound a lot better than the miniscule aftermarket speakers in my Tercel. :lol:

Honestly, getting new speakers would be cool, but again, I'm not made of money, and the stock speakers - to be very frank - get the job done for me. (For a while, I even thought Toyota had included aftermarket speakers along with the Panasonic deck for the Canadian Chili Special Edition.) I don't know about getting a sub because of the money issue (and also because I don't want to sacrifice cargo room) - although one would definitely be nice, particularly a self-powered one that can fit under one of the front seats (like the Clarion 7" self-powered one). I was very surprised about how well the stock speakers hold up bass - even with my old Panasonic deck that Toyota bundled with the Canadian Chili Special Edition RAV4 - which I since replaced with a new Clarion deck. :D

I think the choice of deck and amplifier also plays an important role in quality of sound, notwithstanding stock or aftermarket speakers. Many aftermarket stereo manufacturers like to play with their numbers (RMS and peak), but sometimes the quality of sound goes beyond wattage. For instance, (according to MANY car audio salespeople whom I've talked to) my Clarion deck, which spews out 17W RMS and 52W peak (per channel) sounds a lot better than a Sony deck (for instance) which advertises higher RMS and peak ratings. A few years ago, when the first Clarion (DRB2475) in my old Tercel was acting up, I almost replaced it with a Sony deck, but the salesperson literally stopped me and recommended me to buy another Clarion instead - which I did (DXZ525 - sold with the Tercel last summer :(). Even the Clarion DXZ545MP that I had installed last week sounds a lot better than the Panasonic CQ-DF783U (although I have to take the DXZ545MP back next week due to a problem - will up grade to DXZ645MP).

Anyway, thanks again for your advice. :)
 

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I think the choice of deck and amplifier also plays an important role in quality of sound, notwithstanding stock or aftermarket speakers. Many aftermarket stereo manufacturers like to play with their numbers (RMS and peak), but sometimes the quality of sound goes beyond wattage.
Exactly.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Let me start by saying... Its good to be back. :) its been way to long.


Now chim.. How are those stocks hooked up? is there a crossover somewhere or are the tweets and mids simply paralled off each other and the tweeter capped?

The reason i ask, is im getting ready to go competition with my rav, so when i replace those, i want to get a feel for what im going to have to track down for the install.

and for RAVenous, Ive seriously eyed your design for the sub in the back.
I know im going to have amps, and eq's, and caps (oh my) so space is going to be a very large concern and im torn between building enclosures like yours, or building a sub floor that is a motorized amp rack/enclusure combo.

And lastly, the manual has a 90a alternator right? any ideas on good replacements?
 

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rad said:
Now chim.. How are those stocks hooked up? is there a crossover somewhere or are the tweets and mids simply paralled off each other and the tweeter capped?

And lastly, the manual has a 90a alternator right? any ideas on good replacements?
Heya rad'meister! Welcome back! :D

My stocks came exactly as you describe.. wired in parallel.. front door tweets daisy-chained off the door "mids" and capped off. The rears, oddly enough, were running full range only(no tweeters). The array of 6 inch door speakers are 4 ohm each, and I'm assuming the front tweeters are 4 ohms, which leads to an odd configuration of 4 ohms per channel rear, and 2 ohms per channel front. Not really catastrophic since being this such a lower power setup, but uneven power distribution between front and rear.

Since you're getting into the competition arena(congrats!), highly recommend using the crossovers that come with all matched component sets. Not that there's anything wrong with capping your tweeters, but the compliment to that is coiling your "mids", or whatever you want to call the bigger door speakers... and the major advantage of purchasing a component set is that they do the crossover frequency/slope/power-handling math for you with the included crossovers, and in most cases are configurable to your particular aural tastes.

Lastly.. regarding alternators.. the cheezy 90A stock alternator isn't TOO bad.. I'm running 2000+ watts of Fosgate power.. plus a pretty hefty array of 12V electronics for my audio/video setup... my lights dim slightly, but I have absolutely no clipping, and have not had to jump start once in the 8 months or so since I've installed this setup! Now unless you're running seriously high end amplifiers, in a large array of them at that, it's pretty hard to use up 90A of current. My system at peak can topple a super big gulp off of the roof, and at that drain about 60A(measured!). Another 15A or so for lights, wipers, A/C.. that brings me to 75A -MAX- drainage.. still have 15A to spare, and just by the fact that I haven't had to jump start it yet is proof.

I should quantify that I used 2awg cable from battery to the power distribution block, and I have 6 farads capacitance to buffer any quick drains. Other than that, my power system is stock alternator and battery.

Don't get me wrong.. I also could push out more power given more current. All of my gains are tuned down so it doesn't really distort.. so I could definitely get more sound given more current... but in my opinion I don't think my ears can handle more sound. It's kind of an unnecessary expense until the alternator goes bad, or your system drains faster than your alternator can recharge.

However, and this is a biggy howerver... Better believe I'm also gonna upgrade my alternator once mine fails!! My first choice would be to see how much extra inductor wire can fit in the alternator casing.. I haven't popped mine open yet to see if there's any free space, but I'd imagine you can fit another 10-15A worth. That would be the most I'd give my car since I'm not running enough amplifiers to really take advantage of more current than that, plus it's a drop in fit. If I were going for more power, there's a LOT of choices... may require fabricating a new bracket, but definitely do-able.

Okay I typed too much again.. Hope that answers any question you didn't ask :) I'd be very interested in hearing(pics??) what you have planned for your system! Happy RAV'n!

..ChimChim
 
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chimchim said:
Okay I typed too much again.. Hope that answers any question you didn't ask :) I'd be very interested in hearing(pics??) what you have planned for your system! Happy RAV'n!

..ChimChim

Thanks for the info.

As far as what i have planned, im still working that out. I know that im going for SQ over SPL. Im going to try VERY hard to stay under 600W. So what i have installed so far is well not much. I have the Pioneer Avic-N1, and a p1280 changer installed and ready to go. The rca are already run to the back just waiting to be connected. I've run 4ga to the rear and have it terminated to a 4ga in / 2 8ga out distro block. From here everything else is up in the air as im still designing the backend and system specs. Here's what i have in mind as possible choices. * are most likely purchases.
Amps(any combo):
Zapco, Memphis Audio, Hi-Fonics*

Subs (im really conflicted here):
Adire Shiva, Pioneer TS-SW124D(ill explain this in a sec), Kicker CVR12, or IDQ12V2.D4

Midbass(rear doors):
RMB6 - Kicker 6.5" Resolution Midbass*

Components (Front Doors):
15-MCSYNC6 - Memphis MClass 6.5" Component Speakers*
Polk Audio (forget the model number atm)
Kicker (again dont have the model number handy)



Now here is where things get real fuzzy real fast. I have so many thoughts i cant seem to control them all. so ill just start blurting them out and try and make sense of them afterwards :)


Now let my explain my somewhat idiotic / (3 of these things are kind of the same one of them is not) choices on subs. I Keep eyeing ravenous's box design in the rear but every 8" ive looked at and ran through winisd doesnt get me as low as i want to go. So in reality a 12" is my only true option. Now with any of the other 3 choices i have to give up a decent amount of cargo space. And let me tell you that my wife is not real pleased about that idea. The pioneer has a mounting depth of like 4.25 inches as compared to 5.5+ with the other 3. It is possible that i can build that into the back as ravenous did. The speaker only needs a .7 enclusure space. Also if i decided to do a subfloor in the rear with the pioneer, its that much less i have to build the amp rack / enclusure up. The only problem with this sub is... I dont know how it performs or how much i will have to curve out the response.


Now for design:

If i go with the subfloor, I can motorize the the rack for the amps, caps, x-overs, cd-changer, distro block, etc. So i can have be stealth when out and about and then open it up during competition. Plus this gives me all the horizontal cargo space for the essentials like groceries.

The other option is if i go with ravenous's design, its quite possible i can use those compartments in the back to hold equipment, again stealth but i could do some really nice plexi/neon stuff to show it off. The only issue here is stealthing the cd-changer. This gives me all the vertical cargo space for the true RAV stuff like camping gear.

each design has its own set of inherent issues that need to be thought out and looked at carefully.
Its funny, i used to install Iasca winning systems for other people many years ago, and i was like "eh.. No big deal", and they did very well. 2 placed in the top 4 for our state. But Now that its mine.... Im getting obsessive/compulsive about every little detail. Ill work up a visio and post a screen cap of my thoughts a little later.

Man that hurt. I think im coming in a close second for being long winded. :) But then again i can talk about this stuff for days.

I see you're in san diego. if you've got the time some weekend evening, we should head down to hooters, have a drink and chat a bit.

-Rad
 

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Whoah!

Rad'arooni! Great to see meaningful posts from people like you instead of those "I-got-my-post-count-high" posts that waste precious bandwidth! IASCA in the house!! I used to go to a LOT of the IASCA and dbdrag events.. back in my SPL days.. the good ole' 3-noise-pollution-ticket days of my delinquency. Also glad to hear you're a DIY'er, and not one of them rich yuppies getting $20K installs from their rich parents for getting a B+ in algebra! [I deleted a bunch of stuff here.. I reread your post and saw your list was an "either" list and not an "and" list... that's what I get for posting at work :D]

Good selection on amps! definitely high end.. Zapco is a brand I'm intimately familiar with.. In my opinion, the PX was(is?) the absolute BEST preamp on the planet! The only reason I didn't put one in now is because my system sounds absolutely perfect to me, so there's no reason to change it. I've installed PXs in 3 of my past vehicles. Their amps are also very high end as well! My flavorite brands of all time are Fosgate, Audio Control, and Zapco. Last year I would have added Orion to that list, but they betrayed me. There's no coincidence why those brands absolutely dominated dbdrag and IASCA back in the day. I have to ask tho is there a reason why you're limiting yourself to those brands? Nothing wrong with it at all(since they're good brands!), but there are tons of other brands that will power just as good, but without the prestigious(read "expensive") name.

Ahhh the woofer dilemma.. 8s.. 10s.. 12s...15s... 18s.. 21s.. 30s.. eenie meenie miney MORE! A subject more debatable than the Da Vinci Code. I have a 12 inch one myself :shock: only because I like hearing people say "I can't believe you have 12 inches" when feeling it as it rumbles and pounds. So that means ladies like to feel my 12 inches! WAIT.. this is Rated G, so I'm talking about my Pioneer Premiere sub! :twisted: To me, the first spec I look at is the resonant frequency(Fs). I'd much rather have a system sound DEEP than have it loud.. besides.. lower frequencies sound more impressive(to me) than boomy bass. In saying that.. I've heard systems with 8" subs sound as good(to me) as other systems with 12" subs! Most of the consumer level home surround sound systems with subwoofer box use 8" subs... and boy do they rumble!! My point is that the installation has EVERYTHING to do with how good it sounds, and the specs are ONLY relevant if installed optimally. I know first hand that most average/moderate systems are not optimally installed. Not that they don't sound good(to some people), but run it thru frequency sweeps and they're not resonating anywhere near Fs. That's the advantage of knowing how over knowing what... Not sure what my long winded point was, but I just like talking about bass... and since everyone has different music tastes, what sounds good to some may sound lousy to others :shock:

Can't wait to see your artwork after its installed! Sounds like a definite head turner with motorized amp rack and neon. Take tons of pics and share the wealth! Also.. beers on me, along with whatever else Hooters are known for :D :twisted: Happy RAV'n!

..ChimChim
 
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Dynamat Being Installed Today

Hey Chim Chim, thanks for your posts bruh, I enjoy reading them.

At some point I may consider a sub(s) installation in my Rav.

They'd have to be small and stealth, I dont want boxes, and connot give up ANY cargo room. The weekly beach trips demand all trunk cargo space. I got quoted on two 8" subs (JL Audio I think?), mounted in the back, inside those removable panels. The cost was $800. Seemed high relative to the rest of the system.

Anyway, I'm stoked because as I type this post my car is at Good Guys having my XM adapter and Dynamat installed.

I'm getting the Dynamat Extreme in all four doors, hoping it will increase bass response as you and others have asserted it will. I'm sure it wont be too dramatic, but I hope it's significant enough to be noticable.

I have component speakers in front (MB Quarts PCE216's), and regular speaks (Infinity 63.5I's) in the rear doors.

The amp is an Eclipse PA5422 (85wpc).

All are driven by an Alpine CDA9833 head unit.

Sounds very clean right now, with great imaging. If the low frequency response gets a little lower and smoother (with a little less road noise inside the cabin) I'll be very pleased.

Perhaps at some point I will Dynamat the back door. I didn't even think of it until today when my installer was asking where I wanted the Dyamat.

Did you do your back door? I noticed that you also have your floor done as well. Which kit did you use for that?

I'm also curious about who has been doing your work?

I'll let you know how my system sounds after I get a chance to listen to it over the next few days.
 

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Re: Dynamat Being Installed Today

Heya Raviolarooniski!

I installed all my fun stuff myself... and for sound deadening, I put on 2 layers of "generic" stuff.. the first layer I got from ["High-Temperature Mastic" from MCMASTER.com], and the second layer was a "generic"(read "CHEAPER") Dynamat Xtreme called [FATMAT]. I was actually content with the first layer of stuff from Mcmaster, but I ordered 100 squre feet(only about $100) for another install, and had enough left over to finally do the rest of my RAVie. They came in rolls.. not really a "kit" like I know Dynamat likes to sell. I did all the doors(including rear), and all the floors. I have some leftover to do the ceiling as soon as I find good reason to take it apart, but as it is now I'd have to take out my whole system(amp rack), which is a Major Payne("chugga chugga chugga TOOOT.. TOOOT")

Great choice witht he MBs... I really like the way MBs sound, and they don't need a lot of power to produce.!

Here's a few pics of my generic Dynamat..





You might want to consider doing your rear door yourself.. if I'm not mistaken, there's nothing to unscrew.. everything is just pop-off panels.. so all you'd need is whatever flavor of Dynamat(or equivalent). Hope Good Guys did you justice today... lemme know how it works out! Happy RAV'n!

..ChimChim
 

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Just be carefull when you pull in the interior panels off, the clips like to break easily, especially the ones on the back door. Use a tool called a panel puller that slips behind the panel like a pry bar and pulls it off without breaking the clips.
 

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Jeff said:
Just be carefull when you pull in the interior panels off, the clips like to break easily, especially the ones on the back door. Use a tool called a panel puller that slips behind the panel like a pry bar and pulls it off without breaking the clips.
Good point Jeffy'jeff!!

But if you get impatient, places like Kragen, Pep Boys, Chief, etc etc etc, all carry replacement clips.. they're cheap(notice I didn't say "Your local Toyota Dealer"). I have a "junk bucket" filled with misc. clips. Sometimes I put cars back together, and a few of them lay astray on the floors... someone must've snuck 'em in there :D

Door/panel clips are NOT to be mistaken with the WAY ghetto clips on the battery cover... now whoever invented those needs to be body slammed!

Okay.. my cheesy point.. breaking clips is pretty easy as Jeff ponted out, but easily/cheaply replaceable. Happy RAV'n!

..ChimChim
 
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time for new speakers after all!

How's this for irony? For all this time, I've been raving about how wonderful my stock speakers sound and how hesitant I am with replacing them with brand-name aftermarket speakers. Now, getting my new speakers may be more of a "need" than a "want" because I think I might have blown my rear stock speakers to smithereens. :oops: When I turn up the volume and turn on Magna-Bass, the rear speakers (either one of them or both) start to crackle a little.

After reading the instructions on how to remove the door panel a few times from various sources, I think I now have the courage to at least attempt to remove the door panels, although I am still a little queasy about the bezel around the door release and door lock levers. (I guess I should get two very thin metal rulers to pry it off.) Now, I have to find the time outside of work and school to give it a try! :wink:
 
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Dynamat Impressions

Chim-Chim-a-lama-ding-dooooong...!

My intaller had enough material to install two laters of the stuff.

Impressions after having the Dynamat installed in all four doors:

1. The doors themselves seem rock solid, knock on them and its just like knocking on a tree...no hollow sounds at all

2. Traffic driving by with the windows up is quieter

3. I might be crazy or just imagining it, but at first the car seemed heavier and stiffer to drive...but not really anymore after driving it a few days

4. The music definitely has more "juice" or dynamic "impact", especially with CD's...really smooth, even, natural sounding with excellent dynamic range and imaging

5. XM radio was also installed (the adapter) the same day...it sounds pretty good, but the difference in sound quality/ dynamic range is very apparant between it and a well recorded CD. With my prior car stereo in the Miata the difference wasnt as pronounced. This is probably due to a step up in equipment revealing these differences.

6. The bass still isnt what I had hoped it would be (you get so spoiled with a full-on bi-amped 125+ WPC 6.1 surround system in a home theater), but I am going to eventually need to add subs to get the real bottom end. I'll probably do that and have the tail gate door and surrounding panels Dynamatted as well, but much later in the year.

7. Overall, deep bass void notwithstanding, sounds great, way too good for commuting almost two hours a day. I'm kind of a sports radio junkie too (love it on XM) so I almost feel guilty when I'm not playing tunes. It's great to have that option again.

Bottom line, I'd do the Dynamat (or similar) again if given the choice, it makes a noticable difference.

Peece.
 

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Heya Raviolimeisteroonabanoonafannabannamofanna!

Right on my wave-shreddin' brotha! The point of the dynamat is to get the absolute MOST out of your speaks, not necessarilly to give you the most bass possible in a car... but I gotta agree with you.. I'm never rollin' any of my rides without the dynamat(or equivalent)! Door speakers just aren't doing their best without it :D Given the exact same car with the exact same speaks, one with dynamat will sound better than one without. No brainer!

Ya know if you wanted to dynamat the rest of your car, taking out the rear carpet is super duper easy, and the front half of the carpet is also not too difficult(scale to 10, I give it a 2 or 3). So if you ever wanted to venture to do that yourself, you can get the cheap-generic stuff and quiet the rest of your car for like under $50, plus a good half day's work. That's including your rear door as well, which just uses plastic clips to hold it in place. Just something to think about... In my opinion, anyone looking to get the most quality out of their system should definitely consider it.

Yeah that "heavier" feeling.. I know exactly what you're talking about.. I feel it too.. It does make your doors heavier when you shut 'em, and since that's the last thing we do before driving off(I hope?), that heavy-feeling tends to linger.. I think it's purely psychological.. kind of like staring into the sun and then shutting your eyes.. you still see it with your eyes closed(-normal-disclaimer-here-). I don't think the few pounds really makes our RAVie's that much slower.. I can definitely attest to that after all my Thanksgiving/Christmas turkey/ham/kalua pig/lumpia/kalbi ribs/etc..etc..

Glad it worked for you, and may your choice of subs be swift and... ummm.... startling? hair raising? DEEEP :D Happy RAV'n!

..ChimChim
 

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I have 200 lbs. of sand in the back of my Rav, which actually slows it down only a little. The extra weight adds to the traction of the snow tires, plus I can use it if I ever get stuck (which is never). Yeah the extra weight might hurt the gas mileage, but the mileage isn't great in sub-zero temps anyway, about 18-20 mpg driving around town here in the snow.

I've wanted to install some Dynamat for years but I haven't had the money to do the whole Rav at one time, which I want to do. Also I'm waiting to get aftermarket speakers so I can install them at the same time. Hopefull this coming summer...
 
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It's me again... with the same old topic. :oops: Please pardon my repetition of dumb questions!

Are the stock front speakers the same as the stock rear speakers?

After I got home from work, and played around with the fader. I realized that the front speakers sound a lot better than the rear speakers, particularly with treble response. Either the speakers are NOT the same, or perhaps Toyota added better or aftermarket speakers on the front to go with the Panasonic deck that came with the Chili Special Edition.

Again, since I have a Canadian RAV4, I have NO satellite tweeters on the rearview mirror inside bezels, but the high notes still came through more clearly from the front than rear.

Lazy, silly me... :? I still haven't had a chance to open my door panels to check for myself. :oops::p
 

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EHinthe604 said:
It's me again... with the same old topic. :oops: Please pardon my repetition of dumb questions!

Are the stock front speakers the same as the stock rear speakers?

After I got home from work, and played around with the fader. I realized that the front speakers sound a lot better than the rear speakers, particularly with treble response. Either the speakers are NOT the same, or perhaps Toyota added better or aftermarket speakers on the front to go with the Panasonic deck that came with the Chili Special Edition.

Again, since I have a Canadian RAV4, I have NO satellite tweeters on the rearview mirror inside bezels, but the high notes still came through more clearly from the front than rear.

Lazy, silly me... :? I still haven't had a chance to open my door panels to check for myself. :oops::p
Hey again EHinthe604naholic!!

My RAVies front speaks had the tweeters separated from the woofers.. and if I'm not mistaken, the rear speakers had no tweeters at all(I may be wrong, but I think that's what I had). The speakers are basically the same except for the tweeter part(if it exists).

As for sound quality... the fronts have a little more line-of-sight to your ears since they are slightly more in front of you when you sit in the front seat... whereas the rear seats have the person sitting with the speaks basically pointed at their ankles.. not really an optimal place to hear any of the higher frequencies.

I'm still baffled your RAVie came with a Panasonic! Who knows... maybe they did bless you with some Dynaudio's up front :D

Happy RAV'n!

..ChimChim
 
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