I look forward to seeing what you come up with!
Storage tray lights
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After reading through "most" of all the threads on this, and the other interior light options. I started taking panels off my Prime SE. To my disappointment my SE does not have any of the wiring that most have been using to add the lights.
I am wanting to add LED lights to all the dark areas, but would like to have them behave like the OEM lights.
besides the fuse box where can I tap into wires that would work for this?
Thanks
Dan
I am wanting to add LED lights to all the dark areas, but would like to have them behave like the OEM lights.
besides the fuse box where can I tap into wires that would work for this?
Thanks
Dan
Hey, there!
There are sooo many ways to skin this cat. However, I can suggest what I did and why.
I wanted the Toyota blue factory lights. Like yours, my rig did NOT come with any of the lighting that others’ did. So I continued to use the same blue oem lights anyway (they still snap in the lower dash panels and center tray cubby). I used an in-line fuse and connected the new line off of the existing illumination circuit. I “spidered” them of this line going from the driver’s side cubby to the footwell across to the center tray cubby to the five lights in the passenger cubby down to footwell. A couple of extra splitter harnesses are still available to help with the future lighting for inside the door pockets...
While this approach does NOT get you the dim in “reverse”, like factory, but WILL allow you to turn on and off the ambient lights with the dash lights AND dim them all from the factory roller dimmer switch! I liked this approach because it “feels” more factory and requires no additional hardware to make them behave this way. Also, I just dread having an add a fuse in the fuse holder and my fuse cover “roaming around” without doing it’s intended purpose...
Please let me know if you have any questions or need of clarification...
@DIY Dan, although I didn't take the same route, out of personal preference, as EINopal (I spliced in to the rear seat 12v charger and diverted power through an aftermarket dimmer), I would strongly recommend taking EINopal's route, as he's truly captured the OEM approach, and is least prone to failure. I've done my best to keep my wiring/bezel's clean and professional looking, but to the trained eye, it's obvious aftermarket hardware. It's all about the look you want and how much work you're willing to put in.
Sure!
The illumination circuit is where I tapped into. I used 2 posi-taps (these are genius and so much easier on the original factory wiring than the often failure prone, dumb quick splice t-taps) for my positive and negative connections right at the switch! There is an inline fuse (I think a 2 or something like that) off the positive connection.
the negative black wire is connected to the sky blue wire and the red positive wire is connected to a sea foam green wire. That’s it! You’re ready to rock and roar!
I am very new to RAV4world. I come from the 1h8mud, tundras.com, Tacoma world and the products that members frequent there have tended to be the same and not at all common here or at least not that I have seen so far. However, one such source outfit that is seen across all the other sites mentioned is VLED’s...
I like the VLED’s brand for several reasons. They have a great fitment and finish. They feel high end and are BRIGHT! They have proprietary goof-proof connectors that allow for a plethora of connections and install configurations... VLEDS.com
yes this is where I got my wiring from and my grille running lights my interior lights, etc.... All my rigs run em... In fact, I will be adding a second set of super white footwell lights, it is actually a tundra front and rear set, that will come on with the dome light circuits.. Blue is well, uhm, bluetiful for an ambiance but, I like to see when I need to see when I need to see it! So I use the white LEDs for stuff like that, the glove box and center arm rest console!
The Toyota blue oem lights can be purchased pretty much at any Toyota stealership/outlet.
The VLED’s wiring and the oem LED’s connector wire harnesses were married to provide for an easy swap in and swap out of led bulbs, if ever necessary...
Lots more I could answer but I feel that I may have wandered a little here 🤣...
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hey mate
I did a bit of fiddling around today and I can manage to "split" and unscrew the drivers side tray (both side screws and the ones from behind) to release the tray...but how do you get it out to be able to drill a hole in it to put the light in?
I could not for the life of me twist or pull (and didnt want to, too hard) to try and get it out from that spot.
Maybe a right angle drill or attachment could be used to avoid having to remove it in the first place?
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21 Posts
yeah i dont really want to use a drill inside the car where there is existing wires etc..and plus I need to figure out where exactly to drill the hole for the "factory" led globes so they would fit correctly. etc.
Hey, there!
That driver’s side pocket cubby is the worst, no lie, as you now have found out too.
I made sure to unscrew EVERYTHING remotely in the area. All this allowed for just enough “give” when I would pry on the upper portion half of the cubby.
While doing so, I would gently pry downward on the cubby half itself and get my head in from the side, just enough to sight the two screws holding it in, then I used “touch and feel” for the screwand used screwdrivers very similar to the ones below.
I would suppose drilling from the bottom, with the bottom half removed, could work. Being careful as to not perforate past the plastic. There isn’t much in the way of wiring to damage...
However, it might cause another pain on how to “snap in” the oem light and whether or not any additional “plastic fins” would have to be snipped/cut. I had to cut a small piece out to make a flat enough install. Of course this is not a problem with an led light bolt...
Again, not much pressure is needed to make the separations. The big part is time and patience. I was a little hasty and I pulled too hard and created a stress crack near the screw assembly that is nearest to the steering wheel. However, that didn’t have to happen and should have been avoided going slowly... but a simple touch of quick/super glue and it was mended nicely...
Best, mate!
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