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The strut boot protects the strut from water, snow, and debris. It is not necessary to replace them unless the strut is toast but with 150,000 miles I am sure they are due for replacement by now.
 

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Anything over 80k is guaranteed worn out. You don't "feel" them unless you are paying attention to them. I used to see daily cars on interstate bobbing up and down at every small bump, and drivers seem to be oblivious. I say "used to" because for two weeks I am working from home.

The OE replacement shocks from Toyota are not expensive, expensive is the labor if you don't do it yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hello all. Newbie here. We picked up an 09 V6 4wd. Has 150k. Drives great. Struts rubber seal gone but still drives ok. Should I replace? Thanks all.
Thanks, is it difficult to do? I'm pretty handy but don't like dealing with springs.
Anything over 80k is guaranteed worn out. You don't "feel" them unless you are paying attention to them. I used to see daily cars on interstate bobbing up and down at every small bump, and drivers seem to be oblivious. I say "used to" because for two weeks I am working from home.

The OE replacement shocks from Toyota are not expensive, expensive is the labor if you don't do it yourself.
You're right, I will replace. I'm sure there's a YouTube video on it. Plus the car has new run flats so bad struts can wear out the tire too. Anything I should replace since I'm in there? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hello all. Newbie here. We picked up an 09 V6 4wd. Has 150k. Drives great. Struts rubber seal gone but still drives ok. Should I replace? Thanks all.
Thanks, is it difficult to do? I'm pretty handy but don't like dealing with springs.
Anything over 80k is guaranteed worn out. You don't "feel" them unless you are paying attention to them. I used to see daily cars on interstate bobbing up and down at every small bump, and drivers seem to be oblivious. I say "used to" because for two weeks I am working from home.

The OE replacement shocks from Toyota are not expensive, expensive is the labor if you don't do it yourself.
You're right, I will replace. I'm sure there's a YouTube video on it. Plus the car has new run flats so bad struts can wear out the tire too. Anything I should replace since I'm in there? Thanks.
 

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Usually the bushings, also check the lower ball joints in front, sway bar links, tie rod end...
The rear shocks can get replaced relatively easy, no springs involved. Only rust can get in the way. Actually I am gonna replace mine soon at around 75k miles.
For front, KYB makes loaded struts (strut+coils). They make a lot of sense, since the original top bearing might be worn (part of alignment). That swap is more doable on the driveway. Check here:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Usually the bushings, also check the lower ball joints in front, sway bar links, tie rod end...
The rear shocks can get replaced relatively easy, no springs involved. Only rust can get in the way. Actually I am gonna replace mine soon at around 75k miles.
For front, KYB makes loaded struts (strut+coils). They make a lot of sense, since the original top bearing might be worn (part of alignment). That swap is more doable on the driveway. Check here:
  • Awesome, thanks so much
 

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I did replaced shocks and struts on several of my vehicles. And, when I didn't have available a loaded strut (Strut-Plus type), I did it the hard way (compressing the existing spring and removing the strut).
But, by far, I prefer to pay a little extra and swap the whole assembly, especially on McPherson type of suspension.
Of course, after that work on front, an alignment is mandatory. Front (McPherson) strut angles are part of alignment.
 

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I did replaced shocks and struts on several of my vehicles. And, when I didn't have available a loaded strut (Strut-Plus type), I did it the hard way (compressing the existing spring and removing the strut).
But, by far, I prefer to pay a little extra and swap the whole assembly, especially on McPherson type of suspension.
Of course, after that work on front, an alignment is mandatory. Front (McPherson) strut angles are part of alignment.
Changing the strut for this vehicle does not effect alignment. On some other cars perhaps but it does not apply to our vehicle. Do you have proof to back up this claim?
 

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Isn't McPherson type? With the strut top being used in place of the upper control arm?
The exact location of the strut inside the plate's bolt holes (on top) can affect the alignment angles (caster and camber).

 

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Isn't McPherson type? With the strut top being used in place of the upper control arm?
The exact location of the strut inside the plate's bolt holes (on top) can affect the alignment angles (caster and camber).

There is no adjustment required when you replace the struts. Tell me where is the adjustment? The hole where the bolt goes does not matter it does not change anything. I had 3 vehicle that never needed a wheel alignment after changing the struts.

You need to buy an aftermarket adjustable camber bolt if you want to change the camber. Using the factory bolt will not change camber on this car.
 

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Nope. Steering can be "straight" and still wear tires on sides. Loss of grip on wet surfaces, in turns...
Especially when checks are free:

Or you can pay a little more for "lifetime alignment ($149 VS $89) and then you have it free as long as you own the car:
"Provide a Lifetime Warranty* on the alignment, which means we'll set alignment angles on your vehicle every 6,000 miles or whenever needed, free of charge, for as long as you own it. "


Agree to disagree.
 

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Med firm ride - KYB
I would say that's true for the Gas-A-Just monotubes, the regular twin-tube Excel-G stifness is very similar (they say identical) with OE shocks/struts.
I have KYB on three other cars, varying from Excel-G (Mercury Sable), to Gas-A-Just (Kia Soul) and even MonoMax (on a 2001 Ford Explorer). For the RAV4 I have purchased OE shocks (still in boxes).
 
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