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MY2007 base model, auto transmission, non-JBL audio.

I am looking for a nice place to tap 12V to feed two 40A (max) wires to feed an inverter and an audio amplifier. I am okay supplying my own fuses.

I found that the driver side fuse box under the hood has two male spade connectors mixed in with the fuses. They look pretty beefy, 0.25" like the F2 kind you find on top of the high rate SLA batteries. They are energized with battery voltage. Here is a photo showing the two locations.


You can see from the top location what I have in mind. The two copper "ears" that the added cable is attached to is a large fuse that I happened to have, you can ignore that.

However, I am not yet ready to commit because I don't know what these terminals are there for. Does anyone know? I want to make sure that a) they won't mind me pulling current out of them, and b) that they are good for 40A
 

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According to the diagram, these male contacts are part of the buss that connects to one side of every fuse in the box (via the 120A or 140A alternator fuse). If all the connected circuits were running at the capacity of their fuses, I calculate 305A, so obviously the circuits are loaded somewhat below their fuse capability.

So it is hard to say if you could add any additional load to the circuit. You could give it a try, but for safety purposes, place the fuse as close as possible to the voltage source, as you have done.

The worse thing you could do (as an example), would be to run a cable all the way from the connector under the hood, to the tailgate area, and place the fuse at the rear of an additional 12v power jack. Doing this provides too many opportunities for the cable to become shorted without any fuse protection.

You might be better off connecting directly to the battery.You could loosen the battery clamp and insert a small metal bar to make your connections, or I have used a worm gear hose clamp to attach cables to the battery at times. Once again, place your fuse within inches of the battery.
 

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Thank you Rickl. I had seen that diagram but I think your take on it is accurate.

As you can see my image, I intend to put fuses inside the fuse box enclosure. I am generally not thrilled about tapping the battery directly due to special care if a shop needs to disconnect the battery, and also running any length of unfused conductor. By tapping from the fusebox, I have the protection of the fusible links at least.

Now I just need to figure out a nice way to get the wires out. They are #10 stranded. I'll try to come out the bottom of the box to avoid adding risk of water ingress, but I might punt and come out the side.

-Arthur
 
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