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Just saying this out loud... I'm able to advance timing more with 93 without knock than 87, only because 93 burns slower am i able to get more hp while the timing is advanced.

87 = Xhp
87 with timing advance (knock and reduced hp) xhp
93 = xhp
93 with timing advance = XXhp > 87 @ Xhp

I'm no tuner but this was our experience while tuning my Rav4.


Makes perfect sense.

If I was 40 years younger I would be looking for the Toyota OEM Supercharger available for the v6.

https://www.trdusa.com/superchargers.html

Not sure if my stock v6 could take the abuse but......


Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Makes perfect sense.



If I was 40 years younger I would be looking for the Toyota OEM Supercharger available for the v6.



https://www.trdusa.com/superchargers.html



Not sure if my stock v6 could take the abuse but......





Tom
Ha...age doesn't have anything to do with it. My uncle is early 70s and still builds hot rods and I'm nearly 40 myself. It's just a passion and hobby.

Engine most likely would be fine. I'm finding that the limitation is the transmission. Doesn't like heat, high rpm and more than stock HP/TQ. Luckily it can be modded as well but usually the last to get attention...as in my case. I've added a remote stacked plate transmission cooler and added a shift kit to compensate for the tranny not wanting to shift at the higher RPM and under load. Shimming the accumulators has quickened and firmed up the shifts but nothing like a built IPT or Level10 transmission. When this one fails me, I'll get either of the two companies to build a solid trans with a higher stall converter and built valve body. Or... an E154F manual transmission swap...

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Ha...age doesn't have anything to do with it. My uncle is early 70s and still builds hot rods and I'm nearly 40 myself. It's just a passion and hobby.

Engine most likely would be fine. I'm finding that the limitation is the transmission. Doesn't like heat, high rpm and more than stock HP/TQ. Luckily it can be modded as well but usually the last to get attention...as in my case. I've added a remote stacked plate transmission cooler and added a shift kit to compensate for the tranny not wanting to shift at the higher RPM and under load. Shimming the accumulators has quickened and firmed up the shifts but nothing like a built IPT or Level10 transmission. When this one fails me, I'll get either of the two companies to build a solid trans with a higher stall converter and built valve body. Or... an E154F manual transmission swap...

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Agreed, I was just a mopar fan and street racer back in the late 60s and early 70s. My 1970 Plymouth Duster 340 v8, stock semi-high rise intake manifold, stock dual point distributor, stock high flow exhaust manifolds, positraction, 3.91 rear end, high performance moded torqueflite trans with manual shift and high stall torque converter, no A/C no power steering. Back in those days there was a lot less traffic....I beat almost everyone by pulling away at the top end.

Great memories!

Good luck with all your mods.


Tom
 

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We have an 09 RX350 that has the same engine as my RAV and inside the fuel door it says something like 91 octane recommended 87 octane minimum so it does seem with just higher octane and tweaking Toyota squeezes that extra bit of power in the Lexus models.

I have a tune by R9KTuned as well and have been running premium fuel. We didn't talk any specifics at all he just sent me an ECU that was tuned. Rev limit seems to be 7100 but only in manually selected gears. Have a few performance items such as intake/exhaust but when I drive the Lexus it still feels a little quicker at times. Wondering if it is the different transmissions. I haven't done any actual testing 0-60 etc.. so it might be in my head. Hard to think a much heavier Lexus with less power would be quicker. I also may have a cat issue on my Rav, noticed when I rev high I get that rotten egg/sulfur smell. When I had my exhaust made I opted to keep the secondary cat in place. Car has 105k miles and the previous owner certainly didn't drive it hard. I'm averaging about 14-17 mpg with mixed driving more city which also seems pretty low as the Lexus averages 18+ in the same conditions.

How many miles did your car have when you picked it up, what kind of mileage you seeing and do you think my cat might be clogged and a culprit for the low mileage and not feeling as quick? My exhaust sounds good, i'd link a video but stupid restrictions on posting links/images. due to my post count. Anyone know how many posts before I can link/post pictures?
 

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Ha...age doesn't have anything to do with it. My uncle is early 70s and still builds hot rods and I'm nearly 40 myself. It's just a passion and hobby.

Engine most likely would be fine. I'm finding that the limitation is the transmission. Doesn't like heat, high rpm and more than stock HP/TQ. Luckily it can be modded as well but usually the last to get attention...as in my case. I've added a remote stacked plate transmission cooler and added a shift kit to compensate for the tranny not wanting to shift at the higher RPM and under load. Shimming the accumulators has quickened and firmed up the shifts but nothing like a built IPT or Level10 transmission. When this one fails me, I'll get either of the two companies to build a solid trans with a higher stall converter and built valve body. Or... an E154F manual transmission swap...

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
What was the shift kit you added?
 

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Discussion Starter #86
What was the shift kit you added?
https://www.sonnax.com/parts/3048-zip-kit

I'll be honest, I still get occasional flares when the trans hasn't got up to optimal temperature. I do feel it's better than before. Shifts did firm up a tinsey bit with just the kit. But what really helped was shimming the first two accumulators to 1/3 their spring travel. Used about 5 fender washers the first time to test the theory and then added a solid spacer with a washer to get to 1/3. 1/2 would have worked probably and maybe I'll try that next time I'm feeling jumpy. Lol.


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https://www.sonnax.com/parts/3048-zip-kit

I'll be honest, I still get occasional flares when the trans hasn't got up to optimal temperature. I do feel it's better than before. Shifts did firm up a tinsey bit with just the kit. But what really helped was shimming the first two accumulators to 1/3 their spring travel. Used about 5 fender washers the first time to test the theory and then added a solid spacer with a washer to get to 1/3. 1/2 would have worked probably and maybe I'll try that next time I'm feeling jumpy. Lol.


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Thanks dude. I was looking at the Transgo shift kit before this, need to compare since this one is quite a bit more expensive than the Transgo.
 

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I received my Ceika coilovers today and I picked up the megan racing rear camber arms but wondering what you used for the front. Should I pick up some bolts for that as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #90
I received my Ceika coilovers today and I picked up the megan racing rear camber arms but wondering what you used for the front. Should I pick up some bolts for that as well?
Nice! Post up pics when u get them. For camber adjustments up front I used two sets of camber bolts.

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Discussion Starter #91
Not sure I've mentioned this on the forum, but I've been working on my wet Nitrous Express Proton kit setup...ran 50 shot for a while and tried 100 shot recently. Monitoring AFR with my dual wideband and using a NX window switch to activate based on TPS and RPM. The 2grfe v6 loves the giggle juice! Still fighting the transmission and it not liking shifts at high rpm but it definitely improved with the Sonnax Zip shift kit and shimming the accumulators. No videos yet but soon. Here's what's in the works..

Photos of the direct port injection setup I'm working on to do over 100 shot. The current Tundra TB and LS MAF nitrous plate I'm currently using for spray.


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Discussion Starter #92 (Edited)
Painted the UltraRacing front strut bar - the white was clashing my color scheme! Lol

A before and after...


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Not sure I've mentioned this on the forum, but I've been working on my wet Nitrous Express Proton kit setup...ran 50 shot for a while and tried 100 shot recently. Monitoring AFR with my dual wideband and using a NX window switch to activate based on TPS and RPM. The 2grfe v6 loves the giggle juice! Still fighting the transmission and it not liking shifts at high rpm but it definitely improved with the Sonnax Zip shift kit and shimming the accumulators. No videos yet but soon. Here's what's in the works..

Photos of the direct port injection setup I'm working on to do over 100 shot. The current Tundra TB and LS MAF nitrous plate I'm currently using for spray.


Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

I am very, Very, VERY interested in this setup. I thought a nitrous kit couldn't be installed due to a returnless fuel system, from brief discussions with my mechanic. I want to only run a 50 hp shot setup (No more) with the supercharger kit. This is the same setup I have on my old school 1997 Subaru Outback Sport Wagon (Tranny was upgraded in it as well). Was great fun running that.

Will dig through your previous posts on any details about your nitrous setup. I'd like to get this and have it installed for testing sometime early next year. I want 12 second 1/4 mile times dang it. :LOL:
 

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Discussion Starter #94 (Edited)
Been a while since I posted an update, wasn't sure there was any interest but I'll try to remember what I've done since June..

Not much in July, but in August I had some curb rash on my wheels. Tried to clean it up a bit with a dremel and sanding discs. Then instead of powder coating them back to original, I PlastiDipped them with Punisher Grey.

May end up with redoing them in Anthracite color once I get new tires...needed an alignment bad and never did once I lowered the Rav4.















"lightly modified" Rav4 2GRFE 4WD
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Mid August I got my alignment and found the dreaded rusted rear toe issue. Found the toe bars weren't oem so Toyota wouldn't cover them under warranty so bought some new ones and after installing them got the much needed alignment.


"lightly modified" Rav4 2GRFE 4WD
 

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Discussion Starter #96
September I started working on my direct port nitrous plate.

Picked up a 16"x 6"x1" delrin plate and started drilling, cutting, dremeling and sanding to create a spacer that would go between my lower intake manifold and the upper. I chose the delrin material due to its chemical resistance properties against oil, ethanol and gasoline while being highly heat resistant.



"lightly modified" Rav4 2GRFE 4WD
 

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Discussion Starter #97 (Edited)
After getting it all cut out, I started routing my stainless steel nitrous lines. Very difficult to do and ruined several lines...ended up buying extra to make up the ruined ones. Started off with the Nitrous Outlet 6 port hard line kit (which came with all the fittings) and ended up buying 6 extra generic ss lines off Amazon. The compact clearance situation helped me choose the DynoTune Tomahawk nozzles making it easier to route the lines. Tried to stay as close to the spacer as possible to reduce any clearance issues. Nitrous Outlet had the best deal on distribution blocks so went that route for even distribution. Used a brake line bender and cutter from HF and a reamer deburring tool from Eastwood and my Ridgid 37° flaring tool from HD. Sleeved each line in shrink wrap for a cleaner look IMO.

Turned out pretty good IMO for a nitrous newbie.















"lightly modified" Rav4 2GRFE 4WD
 

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Discussion Starter #98 (Edited)
I had read online of another 2GRFE owner having good gains from doing a minor port and polish on his lower intake manifold. So I set off to do in my words a DIY "stage 1" job.

Used 60 grit sanding drums to 120 grit flap wheels to shape and remove castings. Then moved up to abrasive wheels and bristle discs to give it a smooth finish. I understand that past the injectors in the engine heads, I wouldn't polish the runners to aid in atomization but before the injectors I wanted the max amount of air flow with little restriction.

After doing so I saw a gain in my 40-60mph time...went from my best of 2.6s down to 2.0 - 2.2s - better by a minimum of 4 tenths faster, 60-80mph improved by 2 tenths from 3.3s to 3.1s. All of this was done with no nitrous - all NA. No track times yet...but seems to be decent improvement for not much investment. All measured during similar temperatures using TorquePro app.











"lightly modified" Rav4 2GRFE 4WD
 

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Discussion Starter #99 (Edited)
Towards the end of October, I got a chance to work on the nitrous wiring. Needed to figure put why the nitrous was cutting in and out when activated.

Tried to diagnose if it was my progressive controller but even with just a relay and no controller, it would still cut out.

Thought maybe my window switch was bad, since the nitrous won't activate unless a certain rpm range is seen and % of throttle position is seen. Have mine set to activate once rpm is over 3800 and deactivate over 7000 but also only if 90% throttle is seen. One without the other and no nitrous is sprayed.

This being the situation I looked at my wiring connection where I sourced my signal wires. After I soldered them up, my nitrous no longer was a problem...no cutting out...working as designed!! Yay!

"lightly modified" Rav4 2GRFE 4WD
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Video attached - you can hear the switch clicking as it engages and disengages repeatedly during a short spray run.

 
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