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Discussion Starter #21
That is cool! I’d be interested to know what you have control.

When these were new in 07 I drove a v6 awd. Man what a rocketship
 

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I’d be interested to know what you have control.
???
When these were new in 07 I drove a v6 awd. Man what a rocketship
Yep that's why I bought one. After test driving one in CT for my BIL who lives a day's drive from a Toyota dealer in AK I decided my wife needed one. It's definitely quicker than my '67 Barracuda 340S was.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Wow. LOL. That was supposed to say I would love to know what you have it connected to. The led
 

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That was supposed to say I would love to know what you have it connected to. The led
I looked up the schematic for the 4WD ECU and connected to the drive signal pin to the electro-coupler.
 

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So does that mean the transmission always throws power out the rear just it never connects to the wheels unless the ECU tells it to?
Yes. But then because between axles is just a clutch, and the front rear are open diff (not limited slip), the "locking" of diff needs to be done by ABS braking the spinning wheels (that got loose). Less efficient, but it will work in a pinch.

154176
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I’ve always admired Toyota for abs used as LSD. it’s brilliant. Everything needed is already there; avoids a complicated LSD

might have the driveshaft back together and in today; I’ll report back! Not sure if I want to do the rear axels too; the seals need done and I have the axels. There is a little play on the old ones but I suppose I’d reuse them if the driveshaft solves everything
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Very cool. I will be keeping the open diff in my 1950 as I’m less likely to wrap it around a tree when letting The horses gallup lol

The breather... what am I looking for? Rust?
 

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It's not just them, Ford had it on CrownVic since 1992.
More:

PS: Check the diff breather if you are there - it's on top.
Thanks for that article. I’m curious that Ford went to the brake-based LSD on the Vic, considering they had the Traction-Lok parts available for the 8.8” rear differential which the Vic continued to use until 2011. Perhaps it was a serviceability issue - replacing brake pads on a fleet vehicle isn’t unusual but It is possible to work the Traction-Lok hard enough to make it fail (see my 1987 Mustang for reference, when I bought it the axle was shot).

In my FWD RAV, I’ve had lots of success using the e-LSD on and off-road, never having been stuck yet. That said, I know my RAV’s limits too, and don’t go where AWD is necessary.
 

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I have the 8.8 LSD on my AWD Explorer. It's an added price and it will eventually require maintenance too.

If you are not really stressing that diff by offroading (like CrownVic), the brake pad wear and heat is more than acceptable replacement.

My RAV4 is 4WD and the e-LSD is more than sufficient for me. The most action it sees is on rainy days like this morning, when I love to take off from red light while the other cars are becoming smaller in the mirror, spinning their FWD trying to catch me.
 

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Very cool. I will be keeping the open diff in my 1950 as I’m less likely to wrap it around a tree when letting The horses gallup lol

The breather... what am I looking for? Rust?
You are looking to see if the breather valve moves up and down. It is spring loaded. Sometimes road crud or rust prevents the breather valve from moving. If it does not move up and down the hot exhaust will be forced to blow through the seal causing a leak. If the breather valve is not moving try using penatrating oil or WD-40 with a long straw. Just so you don't blow the straw away duct tape it to the aerosol can.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Great advice thanks.

so the LSD. only need when wheel spin is an issue, yes? Most RAV and Crown Vic owners typically don’t spin their tires right? I’ve got an 02 es300 and I think I’ve heard the tires chirp Once in the last 3 years 60,000 miles

nevertheless I would so gladly change brake pads that dig Elblows deep in a pumpkin haha
 

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Great advice thanks.

so the LSD. only need when wheel spin is an issue, yes? Most RAV and Crown Vic owners typically don’t spin their tires right? I’ve got an 02 es300 and I think I’ve heard the tires chirp Once in the last 3 years 60,000 miles

nevertheless I would so gladly change brake pads that dig Elblows deep in a pumpkin haha
Keep in mind most Crown Vic owners were police and government departments - I can’t speak for the Navy, but traction can be a problem for county mounties taking off from a shoulder, or responding to a call in rain or snow. I’m still a traditionalist for traction - would rather have a mechanical limited slip than brake based, but I haven’t tried the one on the Vic. But the Traction-Lok made it possible to drive my 1987 5.0 in 4” of snow the one time I had to! We could use my wife’s 07 GT well enough when needed too, with the LSD. Fair enough it’s kept me going in the RAV better than I thought it would.

Last, I recall that the 4WD 4.3 models don’t have the Auto-LSD - it was only for the FWD models (per my manual). This is a separate setting from the default traction control system. You guys with 4WD are way better off with your system anyway!
 
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The "Active Torque Control" on the 4WD models (see the document linked above) didn't say that. I assumed the differential braking function is also retained, but I was wrong, this is my model of RAV4:


Stupid Toyota! I guess because this gen3 is lacking a true central differential (like on a true AWD car), they could not make Auto LSD work on 4 wheels...
 

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The current models that have Driveline Disconnect (I forget which) use a different LSD system than the 4.3 and most other 4WD/AWD models.
 
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I am disapointed. I might fix my 2001 Explorer (with true mechanical, limited central and rear AWD)... just to have something for the winter trips. It moves even with only one of the rear wheels having traction.

The current models that have Driveline Disconnect
From Toyota:
When AWD isn't required (on long stretches of highway, for example), RAV4 can achieve better fuel economy thanks to the Rear Driveline Disconnect system. The disconnection features the world's first ratchet-type dog clutches on both the front and rear wheel shafts.
Sounds like is a free-wheeling system, like when coasting downhill it doesn't try to spin the engine faster (engine brake). Don't know if that helps with the e-LSD issue.
 

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Hey all,

I'm new here; i was impressed with the knowledge I came across googling so i signed up in hopes you guys can help.

2011 rav4 2.5 AWD is smooth as can be (brand new tires eliminated all other irregularities, alignment good), but under hard acceleration or with my foot on the gas at 60, the whole car shakes. I can especially feel it in my foot (pedal foot)

front axles are so tight they feel welded. The back have leaking seals and have about 1/8 to 3/16 of play near the diff. None near the hub. It’s weird though, the play doesn’t seem to be in the joint but rather where the outer part of the joint goes into the diff. The whole thing wiggles. Usually the axle will wiggle but the outer part of the joint that goes into the diff or trans doesn’t move

If I use the 4wd lock button, it really shakes under acceleration from stop until it kicks off and gets "less" like as described above

wondering before I throw parts at it ifs more likely the axles, The differential, or (God-please-not) the torque converter or viscous coupler. The only sound is the tinniest whine - barely audible with all the windows down on quiet side roads with guardrails to echo it back, only at medium-low speeds with enough throttle to increase speed.

I have grease from the axles or 90w from the diff all over the diff. I figure just do seals when in there if I do axles. The plug on the driver side looks way to low to be a fill plug by the way, is that a drain plug and I am missing a higher-up fill plug?

I am desperate for help :(

thanks

Drew
I would check the hoses in the engine if any are loose. My father had a similar problem in his Honda odyssey 2006. It would hit 60 and start shaking, maybe there is a lost of pressure in one of hoses going into the engine or transmission.
 

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I would check the hoses in the engine if any are loose. My father had a similar problem in his Honda odyssey 2006. It would hit 60 and start shaking, maybe there is a lost of pressure in one of hoses going into the engine or transmission.
Hey Ricky thanks for the tip. OP found it was the u-joints in post #4. But yeah leaks of any kind can cause all kinds of problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
So, sadly, with the new ujoits in, the obvious vibration with the AWD Lock feature on is gone, so the driveshaft issue is corrected, but there is still this horrible shake, almost wobble felt mostly in my foot. I think i have the engine eliminated as being in 2 or 3 gear doesn't change anything; its speed related and only when on load

I am going to remove the driveshaft when i have the time and energy and see if the problem persists, and if so, I am screwed becuase I cannot imagine what it can be if its in the front end...
 
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