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Discussion Starter #42
I don’t think it’s a cv axel. Jacked it Up. Tiny play in the driver. Wondered about engine mounts, doesn’t really jump or bang shifting from P to R to D nor does it bang while shifting :-/

I am going to remove the drive shaft to eliminate that but welcome other suggestions In the mean time

thanks all
 

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Discussion Starter #43
The ONLY other thing I can find is a faint whine when I’m in the gas; it goes away when not on the throttle. There is also a howl from the rear brakes. Only when applying them. Makes me wonder if it’s the vicious coupler but they wouldn’t explain a shake/wobble
 

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The ONLY other thing I can find is a faint whine when I’m in the gas; it goes away when not on the throttle. There is also a howl from the rear brakes. Only when applying them. Makes me wonder if it’s the vicious coupler but they wouldn’t explain a shake/wobble
The whine is the front differential. It was a recall regarding that, now expired. Mine has a small whine too, but short of rebuilding that...

BTW, there is no "vicious coupler" in this car. Either that or the correct term "vascous" coupler.
There are 2 open differentials (one on each axle) and one clutch pack between them (instead of a central differential like on any true AWD system).
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Good to know!

So this shake is likely NOT the front diff? Couldn’t be the Tranny right?
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Tires are brand new so as to eliminate them as a possibility. Plus it’s only when on the throttle. I’m going to drop the driveshaft and see if it goes away.
The driver side front axel is original, the front passenger has been replaced. There is a tiny bit - maybe a 1/16th of play in the replacement. I guess that’s the suspect if the driveshaft being removed doesn’t change anything but man I don’t wanna just throw parts at this thing :(
 

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Drew, have you checked for stored codes? We started on a mechanical search but your last note about this happening under hard acceleration brought to mind the possibility of a misfire that might be throwing a code but not enough to light the CEL. Looking back, you had mentioned it in your first post, so sorry I missed it. Another possibility is the transmission might be slipping. If this still happens with the driveshaft out, and there are no “pending” codes, here’s a couple of things to check or consider:

1. How old is your transmission fluid, and what’s its condition/colour? If the fluid is worn, it could be allowing slip either in the torque converter or by not allowing the piston to apply/maintain pressure on the band.
2. What gear does this happen in - is it when you floor it and get a kickdown or dors it happen without a kickdown? You can test (although don’t do it too much as this is maybe causing damage) by manually selecting gears 1 or 2 but not 3/D. If it’s under hard acceleration I’d wager on repeating the problem when in manual 2.

I really hope it’s not my second point, as that could indicate the need for a transmission rebuild or replacement. If your RAV is like most out there, it’s still running the original transmission fluid so a change might be a good idea anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I have not checked for stored codes but will. The motor pulls a nice steady 20 bar vacuum at idle, with less than 1/15th of a bar of "wiggle"

As for the trans fluid, its original, i'll do a drain and fill either way, but basically, at 60-70, this happens with even the slightest foot on the gas... I DO feel it more under hard acceleration, but at 70, for example, on a flat road, i feel it. Its worse with more throttle, it disappears with 0 throttle.

I'll report back on stored codes and results with drive shaft out, and a tranny drain/fill

thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter #50
also, i did check, it has nothing to do with what gear its in and doesnt seem to change with a kickdown. Hard or gentle
 

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I have not checked for stored codes but will. The motor pulls a nice steady 20 bar vacuum at idle, with less than 1/15th of a bar of "wiggle"

As for the trans fluid, its original, i'll do a drain and fill either way, but basically, at 60-70, this happens with even the slightest foot on the gas... I DO feel it more under hard acceleration, but at 70, for example, on a flat road, i feel it. Its worse with more throttle, it disappears with 0 throttle.

I'll report back on stored codes and results with drive shaft out, and a tranny drain/fill

thanks guys
Sounds good. I suggest you consider the return line flush instead of just a change (the change only gets 1/3 to 1/2 of the fluid). There are lots of opinions about the fluid to use (Toyota or Valvoline) so it’s up to you - there are a few threads on here (search MaxLife) but there is a lot to it. I’ve been running half maxlife and half original (no time to do the flush, but it’s coming soon) for the past 12 months and although I did notice a little bit of a difference in shift behaviour it’s been fine and I will complete flush this year with a full MaxLife change out.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
driveshaft removal did not help =( i will do some drain/fills (unless a return line drain isnt too hard and the return is easily identifiable - i didnt find the thread Foryota referenced)
No misfire codes pending, current or stored; fuel trims good (7 for long term)
Also wonder about that passenger side CV as its an aftermarket and they are known to not last nearly as long as the OEM
 

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Discussion Starter #55
oh yea for sure but a return line drain-fill doesn't mix old with new... a drain fill basically replaces 1/3... so you have .67 old, then that x .6 and then that x.6 and so on... never 0 old and many drain fills to get close i guess. I drain fill my Lexus and Honda but those dont feel like they are off roading in the middle of a smooth road =( this has me worried. Only the drain fills, the newish axel, and a motor mount can be left... motor mounts look good, motor isnt violent when shifting (either in acceleration or stationary from P-D-R)
heres to hoping
 

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oh yea for sure but a return line drain-fill doesn't mix old with new... a drain fill basically replaces 1/3... so you have .67 old, then that x .6 and then that x.6 and so on... never 0 old and many drain fills to get close i guess. I drain fill my Lexus and Honda but those dont feel like they are off roading in the middle of a smooth road =( this has me worried. Only the drain fills, the newish axel, and a motor mount can be left... motor mounts look good, motor isnt violent when shifting (either in acceleration or stationary from P-D-R)
heres to hoping
Do a search for “return line flush” in 4.3 mechanical. When I did my fluid on my 2.5, I tried using the drain bolt but it was stuck and I didn’t want to round the head, so I simply dropped the pan (good practise anyway, as I could inspect and clean the magnets, and was able to get (based on refill volume) half of the system fluid out. For the return line flush, you start with the pan drop, then pull the return line and have a helper start and stop the engine, while you watch the fluid coming out. There’s more to it, but see the other thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Update. Trans and transfer case service did nothing. If the cv axel doesn’t change things, I’ll need to unload her as a project and move on :(
 

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Discussion Starter #59
S O L V E D!

it was the passenger side front CV. I have no idea what was wrong with the old one, it felt just fine in and out of the car. Thank God! The car drives perfectly. When I put the driveshaft back in, hoping more issues aren’t uncovered, but if they are, they are simply the shaft itself, which I rebuilt, or the rear axles. Thank you all so much for your support. I love this site
 

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Glad to hear it Drew. Wish you’d gotten it sooner, as I know you were looking at the CV, but at least you’ve gotten a few things out of the way too.
 
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