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Discussion Starter #1
You might ask yourself: I wonder how is the Next Level Performance Module working on Mensajero RAV4? Well today I had the opportunity to really test the module in a lot of driving situations. On the highway, I was going from San Juan to Bayamon on the expressway. In fourth gear when I stab the gas, it races toward 90 MPH a lot quicker then before. In that type of test, I haven't given it all I know it can do. Going up a hill in third gear, the moment you stab the gas throttle, torque takes over and it immediately starts to pull. But I know it needs about two more degrees on the ignition, maybe more. The header will really bring it to life. There is more power to gain, a lot more I know it can deliver. It’s just a question of tuning. Would I recomend this module to the rest of the RAV4 owners. Hell yea. :wink:
 

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Mensagero, do you have a dyno near to where you live? Just curious how much hp/torque the thing actually produces with it on and off. I believe your impressions and recommendations, it would just be nice to get some performance numbers though. Maybe if you can do some 1/4 mile passes with it on and off to tell if there is a significant gain with the tri-phase module. :D
 

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Dyno, yea, and quite a few on the island. But as my brother told me, they have a lot of work. Mostly all race engines, and quite expensive I might add. About $150.00 a pull :? The best dyno available is the track. Just take the end track slip and plug in these formula below.

Go to Turbo Calculator, It's free

http://www.turbofast.com.au/freesoftware.html

Thanks to Ray Hall in http://www.turbofast.com.au Excellent source for information regarding turbocharge

Let me finish installing the Header Wrap, Header, and some other goodies I plan on doing this summer and I'll give it a go at the track.
 
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I picked up the module that Mensajero recomended, and the performance gains were very noticable. One problem though, I started getting a DTC about my fuel mixture being to lean. Right now I'm not using the module, but I might have to use a higher octane fuel... gas prices are already $3, might as well pay 10cents more.

I also have a Proscan codereader/performance plotter, I'll run a base line test, then I'll test again with the module installed.

Does anybody know Rav (4.1) Drive Ratio for Dyno Gear? Drive Ratio is kph/rpm.. So you need wheel circumference(mine=216.157), Axle Ratio(4.562), and Transmission Gear Ratio(?)
 
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Hey i was wondering where i could pick up this module and do they make headers for the rav 4? if so where could i get one thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The Pace Setter 86-89 Celica Header will fit the 1997 3SFE engine like a glove. You can buy is from Summit Racing at about $159.00. Be careful when installing it. You have to remove the oil filter. For clearance but once the header is on, the filter won't touch the header. But it will be close. Oil filter chages MUST be done on a cold engine like always. Regarding the O2 sensor that goes on the header as you can see. The holes must be realigned. Yes you can use the OEM studs from the OEM manifold.

You must relocate the second O2 sensor after the Catalytic converter.

Also, you have to remove the alternator for clearance installing the left lower nut. These are simple stuff and common sense. But once it is installed you will appreciate its value when you step on the throttle. Cool sound, more power. Remember, once you are doing the header you should do the exhaust pipe once you are their. Do 2.25 unless you are going turbo, in this case, do 2.50 diameter pipes. The muffler, well, some mistakes that I've seen are that they use a SMALLER muffler hen the OEM muffler. Keep that same size, Big. Checkout the Magana flow muffler.

 
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G-Box, Trial Run with ProScan

Well I finally found a few hours to Dyno Test the G-Box. It's pretty hard to find time inbetween work and drinking... sometimes it's even hard to distinguish them apart.


I'm a nUbee in the DyNo world, and so it took me awhile to figure out how the Program was calculating the HP curve. (based on acceleration, RPMs, weight, and drag) Note that these are the averages of my runs, and these runs were not on a track, and the program was calibrated with estimates of my weight, and drag coefficent. With that in mind, heres a thousand werds..



This graph shows the differences in HorsePower with, and without the G-Box installed. Appears to have an increase at >4300 RPM.

Variables:
Test was done in 3rd gear - gear ratio .0202
Smaller than stock tires, 225/60-16
1st time dyno testing
Dodging deer
Weight of vehical only estimated, 3700lbs
Drag Coefficent of stock vehical
18 trials - 9 with - 9 without

I'll have to run this Test a few more times, to get results for a final review of actual horse power increases. Since many data points were outliers, and not enough points were within the bell curve. I need a lot more data points..

Let me know if you have any suggestions to make this more accurate.
 
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Cheers to toher people whose tests are messed up by having to dodge Deer!

BTW, what are you using to dyno?
 
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Pro Scan, www.myscantool.com

It was one of the Google ads on this site.

It plugs into your ISO, D-shaped connector under your steering column, and displays all sorts of info to your Lappy. I use it mainly for checking and clearing my DTC codes. See website for additional uses.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
buzzkill said:
Pro Scan, www.myscantool.com

It was one of the Google ads on this site.

It plugs into your ISO, D-shaped connector under your steering column, and displays all sorts of info to your Lappy. I use it mainly for checking and clearing my DTC codes. See website for additional uses.
buzzkill, if I were to buy this kit, which one would it be for my 1997 3SFE, RAV4. I presume I can make changes to my OBC for performance, am I correct?
 
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There are only 3 kits available, ISO is for Imports and Chrystler.
It's a pretty impressive list that this one unit will work for.

As far as making changes.... There is no Built-in function to change any settings to the car, besides turning the Check engine light off.

Although there is a Terminal Function... which allows for advanced users to comunicate with the OBCII via code. It doesn't give any instructions on this function, only that it is for advanced users.

The most important thing is that you get all the hardware to connect to the vehicle. I'm sure there's a program out there to change your performance settings. I looked for one when I first found out that it couldn't change them, and I found a few leads, but lost interest when the sites started to get too technical.

If all you want to do is change performance settings, then get one of those units that mount on your dash, and don't require you to bring a laptop along.
 

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The super afc works with pretty much any car that uses a ECU, but you have to know how to use it. it comes programmed with some prest maps, but those wont be exact, you have to fine tune it yourself, which is no easy task if you dont know what your doing.

but yeah, it is more than worth it... a lot of the cars we work on use some form of fuel management... the super afc is the most common though.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Regarding as how to use it my brother always has one installed in his Honda Si. The only difference is that he has Vtec. But I guess it isn't any science. He once told me that it was running very rich at high RPM. Then he started to experiment and found that when the Vtec kicked in. He had to lower the amount of fuel. Since the vtec already kicked in a large volume of gas by itself. After that man. He told me that it got scary.

What I’m think of is timing. Despite everything that my RAV4 has, I still haven't worked with timing. It has the same timing as the day I rolled it out of the showroom. I notice that at least about two to three degrees more on the ignition should work fine in high gear.
 
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