I think it's crazy he thinks following the Manufacturer service change at 10k is "Neglect". The price of oil is going up and it's more expensive to change it. Also Synthetic does not break down nearly as early as it's earlier generation oils. I am currently at 6500 miles and my oil is still golden yellow. I change my oil at 7500 which is a bit below the Manufacturer standard. I drove a 2009 Honda since it was new and did all changes based on the Onboard Minder on the dashboard. Never burned oil even at 166k when I let the vehicle go.

 

I agree with him 5000 m or 8000kms...
Sure you may never have a problem if you dump your car after 150k but if you want 2 or 300k . do it. Also depends where you live, Northern climates are hard on oil. Severe driving.
0w16 is cheap. 5qts / 4.5l is 28 bucks at Walmart in the US..can be bought on sale for 35 in Walmart Canada. Change my own oil for under 40 bucks.

 

I disagree with CCN's recommendation to change the oil at 6 months or 5K miles whichever comes first. The 5k miles is what I do and I agree with that. The 6 months is nonsense for someone like me that only drives 3 to 5K miles a year. Once a year is good enough. Synthetic oil is not going to pick up enough moisture in a low yearly mile car to merit a 6 months change.

 

LOL!! It is currently late July and I picked up my New RAV4 in November of last year. I currently have ~1600 miles on it.

While my modern Fords have 1yr oil change timers built into them (that I merely reset) forgetting for the moment that the oil/lubrication systems in cars are CLOSED (IE: unlikely ingress of moisture) the changing of fully synthetic oil on fixed timed intervals is at best silly.

Almost comical all the 'pundits' that come out with kooky 'best practices'.

 

Every time he talks about changing the transmission fluid, I don't see the logic in his reasoning. Aisin recommends changing the transmission fluid every 20÷30K. I doubt that he has statistics on cars where the ATF was changed more often than every 60K. As a rule, these cars do not appear in dealerships, but are serviced in independent shops or by the owners themselves.

 

He generally gives good advice but I feel he generalises to broadly because he doesn't differentiate hybrids in his oil change recommendations. If you drive a hybrid then it's likely you're averaging an EV drive ratio of at least 50%, obviously dependent on driving style and local climate though.

In that case if you follow the manual's 10000 mi / 12 month oil change interval you are in effect changing the oil at 5000 mi anyway, as tccn recommends. Regarding his 6 month max interval imo it depends on your local climate and driving style and the number of miles you drive in that 6 months. In a cool climate with low driven miles 6 months could be long enough for the oil to accumulate a significant amount of moisture because it hasn't been given sufficient opportunities to be burned off at normal operating temperatures.

Oil change intervals come down to common sense applied to driving styles, miles driven and local climate. There isn't a one distance/time recommendation that fits all.

 

Same gobbledygook posted over and over in the videos. Needs to keep the followers happy, and the videos posted often on forums, in order to get a paycheck from youtube. Post another one. Post another one. Post another one. Post another one. I need my money. Watch my videos now and bobble your head in agreement.

Problem with common sense is that it is UNCOMMON. This is why so many end up with oil burners, crud monsters, chain/tensioner/guide problems, worn out parts, vvt failures, leaks, ......

My favorite owners are the ones that go 10,000 miles without ever looking at the dipstick, and wonder why their engine died. The other group that I enjoy are the ones that "only skipped one interval", like 20k is OK and 'everything will be alright". It won't be. Lather, rinse, repeat, over and over and over. Time was created because there are many lesser distance drivers that could possibly go a couple years on oil without popping the hood. And, the dealership needs the revenue of their 10000 point inspection in order to write up repairs.

The color the oil look is meaningless. If you want an accurate OCI, then take oil samples at whatever fixed time/mileage interval, and send it out for an analysis. But, do include real data like tbn/tan/nitration/water/oxidation/PC/fuel.... often left out of the discount labs. Too many think that the 'drive-thru' non-ISO labs actually means something with their limited and barely accurate numbers. Obviously, an oil change is cheaper than a $100 lab report.

I have a few owners on a yearly regimen. But, the dipstick gets checked often. The oil is always topped off and full. They use what is left of a quality filter(rarer and harder to find now). The oil is not some snowflaked, API, MPG grade, greenie thin, anti-lpsi, or destroy your engine oil. And, they really don't need a 6-month interval if they drive <10k a year.

 

I have a few owners on a yearly regimen. But, the dipstick gets checked often. The oil is always topped off and full. They use what is left of a quality filter(rarer and harder to find now). The oil is not some snowflaked, API, MPG grade, greenie thin, anti-lpsi, or destroy your engine oil. And, they really don't need a 6-month interval if they drive <10k a year.

I completely agree. I only drive my gas model '21 RAV about 5k miles a year. I change the oil once a year. I check the dipstick frequently and obsessively at least every couple weeks if not more. The car has never used oil or leaked oil and the dipstick level has never varied...so I never needed to top it up. I use the more pricey Mobil 1 Extended Protection (not the high mileage type) 0W-20 with its robust additive package. "Quality" oil filters opens up a can of worms! All the oil filters seem to be in a state of decline and devolution.The quality control looks very poor on many name brands including Denso, the Mann& Hummel made WIX and Purolators. At present I use a WIX 51394. I am considering changing to the newer Premium Guard line of Asian filters next year (or whatever then is the best according to recent reviews in BITOG and YouTube.)

 

I had quite a few sparkling flecks on my 1K and 5K oil change. I would not wait too long for the first oil change.

 

I have a '24 R4H that has had only its first scheduled service and oil change at the dealer after 12 months. I check the dipstick every 4 - 6 weeks. After the service the oil level was about 1/8" above the full mark and is still there 6 months after the service. So far all is ok with the engine with 13,000 kms on the odometer translating to about 4550 ice kms while averaging ~65% EV driving ratio.

 

You get this same dynamic every time you have 2 things:

1. It "seems like" the persons role should know something
2. But in reality they have a complete lack of experience that would provide tham with that info

Like imagine you want to know how to build a navy ship so you kidnap the crew. It "seems like" the people running the ship would know how to build the ship. But, they don't.

 

Non synthetic oil is less refined and does better with moisture, due to its solvency. We still use group-1 based oils in 'humid' industrial applications because all the synthetic options were sludge failures. Group-1/II solvency works great. But, its not for a bazillion mile interval with uncontrolled oil temps.

The open breather vent caps didn't allow anything in. Blowby pressure kept the vapors flowing out. None of my 70's and 80's vehicles, with those ancient crank vent systems, ever had milky sludge.

Synthetic oil does get white and milky too. It is an active problem with Toyota and cold climates. I was under the impression that GF4/5/6 API oils dealt with milky white sludge with newer additives. I guess not well enough with their homogeneity miscibility/emulsified requirements.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10206528-9999.pdf

Nothing space-age about synthetic oils. I would be impressed if they came out with a full PAG, MAC, and PFAS motor oil. Even the OSP additives seem to have faded away. Sure miss the Pennzane but at $1000/ounce, don't expect more than a few drops in a barrel of oil.

Best way to deal with 'moisture' in the oil was not to take short trips. Long trips would cook it off. Makes no difference on the type of oil or age of vehicle, short trippers can moisture sludge the oil, which is different than oxidation sludging. And, this is why those short trippers were treated as special/severe drivers with shorter maintenance intervals.

For the want of a pan/block/coolant heaters for those cold climates.... even that uncommon sense faded away. And, some use 'catch cans' or 'condensation can' with their ventilation plumbing. There is a whole market of brands, yet none have any engineering to back it up.

 

The open breather vent caps didn't allow anything in.

Sure they did! Even lots of dust if you drove off road.

Blowby pressure kept the vapors flowing out.

Only if you had shit rings.

None of my 70's and 80's vehicles, with those ancient crank vent systems, ever had milky sludge.

My '84 Bronco II V6 had it all the time with Castrol GTX 20w-50. '77 VW Scirocco had it occasionally with Valvoline Racing Oil straight 40w especially after autocrosses in the rain.

 

Another oil thread bites the dust due to arguments. Closed.