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My Toyota Care 20,000 miles of free oil changes is done for my 2018 RAV4. I wanted to change the oil after 7,000 miles. I buy the correct tool for the oil filter housing. When I try to remove the oil filter housing, I have to exert an extraordinary amount of force to get the housing loose.The housing is supposed to be torqued to 18 ft lbs !! In the process of using the correct tool in the correct method, one of the external ear tabs broke off, and oil leaked out. In a panic, I had to buy a new plastic filter housing from Toyota dealer for $68 + tax. I contact the tool company, and they say that these filter housings seize in the block, and I should replace it with the aluminum replacement part (which I didn't know to ask for at the time) I contacted the dealer who did both Toyota Care oil changes, telling them their tech overtorqued it and heard nothing back. Anyone else had to deal with this frustration ? I think there should be a recall.
 

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Obviously who ever did the last oil change over tightened it. Good luck getting them to be responsible. I am doing my own changes to avoid the common mistakes of over tightening the filter or tightening the drain plug so tight that it strips out the pan threads.
 

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Should post this in the 4.4 section as this is the 4.5 section(2019+).

We don’t have a housing as it’s the old style spin on oil filters for us.
 

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My Toyota Care 20,000 miles of free oil changes is done for my 2018 RAV4. I wanted to change the oil after 7,000 miles. I buy the correct tool for the oil filter housing. When I try to remove the oil filter housing, I have to exert an extraordinary amount of force to get the housing loose.The housing is supposed to be torqued to 18 ft lbs !! In the process of using the correct tool in the correct method, one of the external ear tabs broke off, and oil leaked out. In a panic, I had to buy a new plastic filter housing from Toyota dealer for $68 + tax. I contact the tool company, and they say that these filter housings seize in the block, and I should replace it with the aluminum replacement part (which I didn't know to ask for at the time) I contacted the dealer who did both Toyota Care oil changes, telling them their tech overtorqued it and heard nothing back. Anyone else had to deal with this frustration ? I think there should be a recall.
I have an 2011 FJ Cruiser that had that stupid plastic housing. That plastic part was the first thing I replaced. Thank God that Toyota changed that out on the 2019 Ravs. Other FJ owners complained of the same thing, a seized or over torqued plastic housing that could be broken just trying to remove it. It happened more than you think. It turns out that the aluminum housing for the Toyota Venza was a direct replacement, except for the inside parts, but it was easy to swap those between canisters. I even bought it on Amazon. I always use the torque spec for it when reinstalling it. I do that because the little metal clip that holds the plastic canister from turning doesn't fit the new aluminum one and I don't want it coming loose. I'd look in the section for the older RAV's on this forum and see if anyone else did the same thing for their Ravs.

EDIT: Did some searching. I found this on the older Rav section. It's for a 2016, but I think it's the same.


I'd also avoid the Dorman products version. Get the OEM Toyota version. Amazon does claim it's in stock even though a poster said it wasn't made anymore. Be sure to swap out the inside parts when exchanging your plastic one with the aluminum version because they are different lengths.


Some posters complained it's too easy to cross thread or gall the the threads on the engine housing. I've had no issue on my FJ. I'm very careful to make sure the big O-Ring is seated properly, that there is plenty of clean oil in the housing on the engine as well as the new aluminum canister and to make sure to thread with care so as to not cross thread the assembly. Save your plastic one for future use if needed.
 

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Factory-installed oil filters are notorious for getting stuck. It's happened to me many times. Now, I won't touch the first filter. Let someone else get frustrated.
 

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Yeah, even the spin-on one on my new Rav4 was a PITA to get off. Must've put it on with a air wrech on max setting. I did finally get it off with the proper wrench and some patience, but then I had trouble getting the wrench off of the filter because it had twist jammed itself to the filter.
 

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I have found hammering a long screwdriver through the filter gives leverage to get that first 1/16 to 1/8 turn.
Been there, done that. I bought a Dodge Dart with the slant six engine from a friend. He only had it few months and had to sell because he lost his job. I had the "honor" of doing the first oil change. By the time I hot around to driving an 18 inch screwdriver through the filter, it was mangled, AND the part the filter screwed onto CAME UNTHREADED FROM THE ENGINE with the filter. Never saw that before or since.
 

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I used a C clamp once when I couldn’t get a filter off my old Focus. I’ll have to keep the screwdriver tip in mind if god forbid that ever happens again.
 

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I have found hammering a long screwdriver through the filter gives leverage to get that first 1/16 to 1/8 turn.
I tried that on a new Honda I had in the 80s. The screwdriver tore through the filter without turning it. I had to use a strap wrench to get the sucker off.
 

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I tried that on a new Honda I had in the 80s. The screwdriver tore through the filter without turning it. I had to use a strap wrench to get the sucker off.
Channel locks work wonders. No farting around with a strap wrench, no puncture and leak from using a screwdriver. Used this on the conventional filters when I worked in the shop, still do it on my vehicles (that don’t have a cartridge filter like my 2AR-FE.
 

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Been there, done that. I bought a Dodge Dart with the slant six engine from a friend. He only had it few months and had to sell because he lost his job. I had the "honor" of doing the first oil change. By the time I hot around to driving an 18 inch screwdriver through the filter, it was mangled, AND the part the filter screwed onto CAME UNTHREADED FROM THE ENGINE with the filter. Never saw that before or since.
I had that happen too, on a 1978 Chevy Truck with a 6 cyl engine. Brand new, first oil change. Strap wrench did nothing but start to crush filter housing. Didn't have a set of large Channellocks, so I did the old drive-the-screwdriver-through-the-housing in desperation. Oil went everywhere because the metal sheared quite a bit before it turned. It looked like we'd set off a bomb inside the thing it was such a mess. Once I got it off, lo and behold, the screw adapter from the engine sat in the filter. That was a PITA all by itself to get out too and we were sweating bricks working at it. And my husband and I did all this all the while temporarily parked in a college electrical engineering lab that had to be vacated by the next morning classes because we were going to college at the time and nowhere near my full toolbox of tools. No pressure....
 

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Channel locks work wonders. No farting around with a strap wrench, no puncture and leak from using a screwdriver. Used this on the conventional filters when I worked in the shop, still do it on my vehicles (that don’t have a cartridge filter like my 2AR-FE.
When I had a new Fiero (groan) I took it to a quickie oil change place for its first. They fought with it for about a half-hour. Finally, they visited a Midas shop next door and borrowed several implements of destruction, including a strap wrench that collapsed the filter but got it off.
 

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When I had a new Fiero (groan) I took it to a quickie oil change place for its first. They fought with it for about a half-hour. Finally, they visited a Midas shop next door and borrowed several implements of destruction, including a strap wrench that collapsed the filter but got it off.
Mechs know better than techs

Ultimately gotta use whatever gets the job done.
 

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I changed the plastic housing with the aluminum one when I did my first oil change on my 2015 Rav. I bought it off Ebay from a Toyota dealership. I've never had a problem with it. I'm very careful not to over tighten it when installing.
 

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I also recommended "upgrading" to the older metal oil filter caps. My plastic cap threads were always very tight, even when torqued correctly, and I broke off a plastic tab as well. The metal filter cap screws on and off very smoothly.

 

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My Toyota Care 20,000 miles of free oil changes is done for my 2018 RAV4. I wanted to change the oil after 7,000 miles. I buy the correct tool for the oil filter housing. When I try to remove the oil filter housing, I have to exert an extraordinary amount of force to get the housing loose.The housing is supposed to be torqued to 18 ft lbs !! I contact the tool company, and they say that these filter housings seize in the block, and I should replace it with the aluminum replacement part (which I didn't know to ask for at the time) I contacted the dealer who did both Toyota Care oil changes, telling them their tech overtorqued it and heard nothing back. Anyone else had to deal with this frustration ?
I have a friend with 2016 RAV4 and when her 2 years passed and her free oil changes were up, I took over and experienced the same problem and also found they over filled her oil. I didn't break the plastic oil filter housing but it's always a pain to remove even when torqued correctly.
I recently bought an aluminum version from Amazon for $19 and will replace her plastic housing. Considering it's one of the most frequently handled engine component and if fails will kill the engine, I agree it's problematic.
Search this with Amazon: HIFROM 15620-31060 Oil Filter Housing Cover Cap Assembly for Toyota RAV4
 

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My Toyota Care 20,000 miles of free oil changes is done for my 2018 RAV4. I wanted to change the oil after 7,000 miles. I buy the correct tool for the oil filter housing. When I try to remove the oil filter housing, I have to exert an extraordinary amount of force to get the housing loose.The housing is supposed to be torqued to 18 ft lbs !! In the process of using the correct tool in the correct method, one of the external ear tabs broke off, and oil leaked out. In a panic, I had to buy a new plastic filter housing from Toyota dealer for $68 + tax. I contact the tool company, and they say that these filter housings seize in the block, and I should replace it with the aluminum replacement part (which I didn't know to ask for at the time) I contacted the dealer who did both Toyota Care oil changes, telling them their tech overtorqued it and heard nothing back. Anyone else had to deal with this frustration ? I think there should be a recall.
I'll stick to using the Mobil 1 15000 mile cartridge so I will deal with this poor excuse for a filter issue less often.
 

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For all of you that HATE draining the canister filter with the cheapie plastic insert that comes with the new filter, here's a better option. You can get just the drain tool, the filler funnel or the wrench singly or all three bundled. I've got an FJ Cruiser and that drain tool hose looks like a far better solution to drain the canister of oil before removing it than trying to jamb that plastic thing-a-ma-bob with some stiff hose you scrounged up from your junk pile.

 
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