IMO, 60K timing belt replacement should have gone the way of the 3K oil changes - just shops wanting to sell you something before you need it. 5K on oil is plenty soon enough. The same math puts the belt at 100K. And, since it's a non-interference engine, except for getting stranded there's no harm in driving until it breaks.
No harm except, at least, potentially getting stranded somewhere! Or, like me, enduring the wrath of the main driver when the belt stretched and jumped thus making it drive poorly! :crying
OP: Still have the typical bad OEM valve stem seals? Doing them (see my and others' threads) too is a big expansion to the project, though.
Definitely replace the spark plugs, the water pump, and likely the alternator and PS belts while doing the timing belt.
If you don't have a very strong pneumatic gun and big metric impact sockets, have a shop loosen (by air gun or long breaker bar), then lightly (by hand) retighten, the crankshaft-to-dampener bolt before you dive in (but remove the RH splash shield yourself before going to their garage).
The power steering pump's mounting bolts can be a PITA to loosen (to get the PS belt off), so make sure you have _six point_ sockets and a variety of 3/8" breaker bars available beforehand.
there are various seals that can be changed when you do the timing belt. at approximatly 180k I changed the front main seal, oil pump seal(s), and the camshaft seal. I figure those seals will now last the life of the vehicle.