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I contacted Godspeed Project by telephone and discussed the compatibility of their AK-066-B arms ($180 pair, plus tax and shipping) with a stock 5th Gen (2019-2022) RAV4, and I was told it would only fit a suspension that was lowered. It would be too short for a stock, unaltered suspension and would not fit. Also, it is not intended for a daily driver vehicle. Here are quotes from the manufacturer's website.
"SPECIAL NOTES - ...For competition and off-road use only.."
"LEGAL DISCLAIMER - WARNING: THIS PRODUCT IS STRICTLY OFF-ROAD AND SHOW USE ONLY…"

In regard to the SPC 68710/68711 adjustable camber arms ($300 pair, plus tax and shipping), they fit the 2006-2018 RAV4 (Gen 3 & 4), so they are not listed as fitting Gen 5 RAV4.

So my answer to the question is neither Godspeed or SPC makes arms that fit/work on a stock 2019-2022 (5th Gen) RAV4.

For those people who look at parts pictures and say there is clearly an eccentric camber adjustment bolt, they are mistaken. The Toyota part description for the bolt includes the word "camber" but in fact the mechanic's manual more accurately explains the bolt adjusts TOE only, not CAMBER.

However, after much searching and conferring with my mechanic and a Japanese manufacturer, today I had new rear adjustable camber upper control arms installed on my 2020 RAV4. The manufacturer assured me they would fit, and the mechanic who installed them confirmed they installed very easily, and he easily adjusted them to well within alignment specs, in my case -0.5 degrees. There is plenty of adjustment. The arms are very substantial in weight (sturdy), and after hours of online research, several emails, and several phone calls, this is the only rear adjustable camber upper control arm solution I could find for stock 5th Gen RAV4s as of today's date.

The manufacturer is Cusco Enhancement and Progressive Racing Equipment, and the Japanese company has a presence in California - Progressive Racing Equipment — CUSCO USA Inc.. Here is the link to the product page, which includes several excellent pictures - Product not found | CUSCO USA Inc.

It is Cusco Part number 1A1 474 L. If you Google the part number, you will find a number of vendors selling the pair of arms. Because these rear adjustable camber upper control arms fit literally 22 different Toyota vehicles going back more than a decade, it can be confusing when they are listed fitting a 2018 CH-R or a Prius or some other Toyota model, I was assured by the manufacturer by email and telephone that Cusco 1A1 474 L fits the 5th Gen (2019-2022) RAV4.

The main problem is the price. If you purchase through an official USA distributor, the list price is $600+, but they discount it to about $550 for the pair of arms (plus tax and shipping - total $600+). I learned about 2 heavily/positively reviewed Japanese companies that sell the pair for around $300, and they ship by highly reliable DHL, which has very good delivery progress tracking. I got my pair of arms for about $375 total, and it arrived in one week from RHD Japan.

Here are the 2 Japanese vendors I found, and many reviewers say they are highly reliable.

Of course you have to pay to have them installed, plus the alignment. A fair amount of money to solve a problem that should not exist, but I just spent $1,000 on a new set of tires and plan to have the vehicle for multiple sets of additional tires, so I rationalize it is worthwhile investment. Remember, Toyota's solution is to replace suspension components at a cost equal or more than buying and installing these arms, and Toyota's solution does not fix the problem.

Here's 2 photos of the Cusco 1A1-474-L rear adjustable camber upper control arm 1) next to stock Toyota arm and 2) installed.
Tool Bicycle part Electric blue Font Auto part

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Vehicle Automotive fuel system

I hope this is helpful to 5th Gen RAV4 people.


 

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I installed Hard Race toe arms to my RAV4 Hybrid. Alignment can now be perfectly adjusted. Camber was way out and at 42000km , all four my tires were shot. Toyota also ignored my concern about a brand new car not in spec.
The reason I went for toe arms and not upper control arms was the ease of installation and ease adjustment. The reason I went for HardRace and not Godspeed was because the welsds looked better on the pictures and, mainly, they use rubbers and not bearings. Rubber bushings will transmit less noise and vibrations and requires no maintenance. I hope this help. 13000km later and I am still happy!
Automotive tire Bumper Motor vehicle Vehicle Rim
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
Another rear camber issue just reported on facebook. It is likely that this is very under reported as dealers certainly aren't going to point it out, and many people don't check their alignment. Despite very regular dealer service we didn't notice this issue until a tire failure on the highway as the dealer hid the progressing tire damage by falsifying inspection reports. Also, don't let Toyota tell you that negative camber under spec (-1.75deg) is ok because it will damage tires.
Product Font Parallel Rectangle Pattern
 

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Just read through the whole thread. After seeing all the pics shared regarding inner tire wear it's very easy to see that this is a toe problem, not a camber issue; the pic OP posted makes it definitive. If this were camber related at least 1/4 of the inside tire would show uneven wear compared to the outside tire. Since the excessive wear is focused only on the inside shoulder though, this is 100% an issue caused by lack of sufficient toe-in.

Contrary to popular belief, ~1.8* of camber isn't all that excessive; certainly not excessive enough to cause any appreciable amount of wear on the inside edge of a tire (not on it's own, at least). My last 3 vehicles ran -2* of camber and went 60k+ miles on the same set of tires with zero issues. The only time I had an issue with inside tire wear was when, you guessed it, there wasn't enough toe-in being accounted for. In that case, going from 1/32" toe-in to 3/32" toe-in completely solved the issue, even with the seemingly high amount camber specified.

For those that would feel better about having less negative camber in the rear though, go for it; all that's needed is an adjustment to the cam bolt located inboard on the lower control arm. Yes, the service bulletin will tell you that bolt is only meant to adjust toe; that isn't entirely true though. To avoid another 4th gen RAV4 adjustable toe arm fiasco, in Toyota's infinite wisdom, they decided to do away with toe-specific adjustment altogether on the 5th gen. Now all you're left with is direct control over camber instead.

As we all know though, when you adjust camber, toe values also change, which is why you always adjust camber before you begin setting toe. So now if you want to adjust toe in the rear using only factory pieces, you first play with the camber cam bolts until toe is where you want it...then cross your fingers and hope that you end up with camber figures that are fairly close from side to side after the fact. Any mechanic, technician, or service writer that tells you anything different from the above is either lazy, inept, or both...but given the single point of adjustment meant to correct two entirely different variables, I can kind of understand why they usually don't even bother attempting to adjust anything in the rear to begin with.

To sum up, here's the most effective/efficient way to solve the issue of inside tire wear on rear tires:
1. Adjust camber to whatever you feel most comfortable using the factory cam bolts. They have a massive range of adjustment, so they are more than capable of hitting any value 'within spec' or otherwise. Although adjustable Cusco upper arms are high quality components, there is absolutely no reason to spend money on those when factory bolts will easily get the job done here.
2. Replace the toe arms with the Hardrace versions mentioned above. These seem to be the only adjustable toe arms made for this platform that have a rubber bushing as opposed to spherical units. If anyone else happens to find another solution here, please share.
3. Now that you have complete independent control over toe, without the side effect of adversely affecting camber, add as much toe-in as necessary to offset your respective amount of inner tire wear; I'd start with the most conservative value mentioned as Toyota specification (0.10*) and go from there, knowing full well that additional toe-in beyond that spec may be required to get the job done...and I suspect it will. By my calculations, the above figure should translate to 3/64" (per wheel). Adjusting for overall load, bushing deflection, etc. you will likely need more than what Toyota typically calls for in order to achieve completely even tire wear.
4. Profit.
 

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I've gone 63,000 miles on Goodyear Assurance MaxLifes, and there is some wear on the edges but they're still going. The reason the wear is showing on the inner and outer edges is because I make sure my tire rotations have some sort of cross rotation in them. I only mention this because the two different Toyota dealers I've used will simply swap front-to-back and back-to-front with no cross over even when I ask them to do it. The reason I know when they don't cross them is because I have my tires marked with numbers so I know where they should be after service, and, if they're not correct, I have them do it again. For what it's worth, the owner's manual does advise same-side front and back swaps with no cross for some reason.

So, just a head's up, if you're having your tires rotated at the dealer, there's a good chance it's be a same-side swap and you might not be maxi'ing the life of your tires...
It doesn't matter if they cross swap or not when the wear is from camber. The inside of the wheel is the inside of the wheel no matter which spot you swap it to. The only way to prevent this is to dismount the tire and remount and balance it in the opposite direction, which isn't possible for some tires.

I have a 2020 Hybrid XSE with 30k and the inside edge of the tires are worn almost bald, the outside edge looks like it still has 20k miles left. It's ridiculous.
 

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Just read through the whole thread. After seeing all the pics shared regarding inner tire wear it's very easy to see that this is a toe problem, not a camber issue; the pic OP posted makes it definitive. If this were camber related at least 1/4 of the inside tire would show uneven wear compared to the outside tire. Since the excessive wear is focused only on the inside shoulder though, this is 100% an issue caused by lack of sufficient toe-in.

Contrary to popular belief, ~1.8* of camber isn't all that excessive; certainly not excessive enough to cause any appreciable amount of wear on the inside edge of a tire (not on it's own, at least). My last 3 vehicles ran -2* of camber and went 60k+ miles on the same set of tires with zero issues. The only time I had an issue with inside tire wear was when, you guessed it, there wasn't enough toe-in being accounted for. In that case, going from 1/32" toe-in to 3/32" toe-in completely solved the issue, even with the seemingly high amount camber specified.

For those that would feel better about having less negative camber in the rear though, go for it; all that's needed is an adjustment to the cam bolt located inboard on the lower control arm. Yes, the service bulletin will tell you that bolt is only meant to adjust toe; that isn't entirely true though. To avoid another 4th gen RAV4 adjustable toe arm fiasco, in Toyota's infinite wisdom, they decided to do away with toe-specific adjustment altogether on the 5th gen. Now all you're left with is direct control over camber instead.

As we all know though, when you adjust camber, toe values also change, which is why you always adjust camber before you begin setting toe. So now if you want to adjust toe in the rear using only factory pieces, you first play with the camber cam bolts until toe is where you want it...then cross your fingers and hope that you end up with camber figures that are fairly close from side to side after the fact. Any mechanic, technician, or service writer that tells you anything different from the above is either lazy, inept, or both...but given the single point of adjustment meant to correct two entirely different variables, I can kind of understand why they usually don't even bother attempting to adjust anything in the rear to begin with.

To sum up, here's the most effective/efficient way to solve the issue of inside tire wear on rear tires:
1. Adjust camber to whatever you feel most comfortable using the factory cam bolts. They have a massive range of adjustment, so they are more than capable of hitting any value 'within spec' or otherwise. Although adjustable Cusco upper arms are high quality components, there is absolutely no reason to spend money on those when factory bolts will easily get the job done here.
2. Replace the toe arms with the Hardrace versions mentioned above. These seem to be the only adjustable toe arms made for this platform that have a rubber bushing as opposed to spherical units. If anyone else happens to find another solution here, please share.
3. Now that you have complete independent control over toe, without the side effect of adversely affecting camber, add as much toe-in as necessary to offset your respective amount of inner tire wear; I'd start with the most conservative value mentioned as Toyota specification (0.10*) and go from there, knowing full well that additional toe-in beyond that spec may be required to get the job done...and I suspect it will. By my calculations, the above figure should translate to 3/64" (per wheel). Adjusting for overall load, bushing deflection, etc. you will likely need more than what Toyota typically calls for in order to achieve completely even tire wear.
4. Profit.
This is a very detailed and long answer, thank you. However I dont totally agree with everything.

Youbmention original camber bolts. Where does one find this? If you install non stock parts , you might as well install a adjustable camber arm or toe arm. Its not like you can adjust the camber with original filled equipment.

Yes , if you adjust toe, camber also changes. But brining the yoe more inn, cause even more negative camber.

And find, I actually did bring the toe more inwards than mentioned. I but my better looking tires at the back and the tire damag was there.

Adding the toe arm, I can now adjust toe and camber and put them within spec. I guess only time will tell then....
 

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The inside of the wheel is the inside of the wheel no matter which spot you swap it to.
Correct, but when you're going from a position that has too much toe-out to one that has too much toe-in you get wear on the complete opposite side of the tire, regardless of which corner of the vehicle they end up on, just like he is reporting.

The only way to prevent this is to dismount the tire and remount and balance it in the opposite direction, which isn't possible for some tires.
Correct, but that's assuming you're going from one corner of the car to another corner of the car which has equally misaligned toe settings. Taking a tire with severe toe-out wear, dismounting/remounting, then putting it on a different corner with severe toe-in will continue to exacerbate the area of most wear.

I have a 2020 Hybrid XSE with 30k and the inside edge of the tires are worn almost bald
You have a 'not enough toe-in' problem, not a 'camber' problem.
 

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Youbmention original camber bolts. Where does one find this? Its not like you can adjust the camber with original filled equipment.
Yes you can. Adjustable factory camber cam bolts are circled in the attached pic.

If you install non stock parts , you might as well install a adjustable ... toe arm. I actually did bring the toe more inwards than mentioned. I but my better looking tires at the back and the tire damag was there.
That's exactly what I suggested in my original comment; both adding adjustable toe arms AND increasing toe-in. However, there's no need for aftermarket camber arms since camber is already adjustable using factory equipment, where as direct toe adjustment, is not; hence the need for aftermarket adjustable toe arms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 · (Edited)
Yes you can. Adjustable factory camber cam bolts are circled in the attached pic.


That's exactly what I suggested in my original comment; both adding adjustable toe arms AND increasing toe-in. However, there's no need for aftermarket camber arms since camber is already adjustable using factory equipment, where as direct toe adjustment, is not; hence the need for aftermarket adjustable toe arms.
The service manual says this bolt is for adjusting toe, this was confirmed by the dealer and Tires Plus who where kind enough to demonstrate this to us. We did notice that this bolt has a small effect on camber; unfortunately, when adjusting rear toe enough to meet specs, the camber only got worse. See below from the manual:
Product Automotive tire Font Gas Automotive design

Rotate the rear suspension toe adjust cam sub-assembly to adjust the toe-in.

The manual also says that the only way to fix camber is to replace parts. Toyota replaced the springs under warranty, but that wasn't the problem (ride height was fine) then said they spent enough on us (literally, that's what the service manager said).
 

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The service manual says this bolt is for adjusting toe, this was confirmed by the dealer and Tires Plus who where kind enough to demonstrate this to us.
You keep mentioning this in multiple threads, but myself and others have pointed out that from a physical/algorithmic/mechanical perspective that just isn't entirely accurate.

Humor me for a second; when Tires Plus 'demonstrated' this for you, what exactly did they do? Did they articulate both rear lower control arm cam bolts in a complete circle and note the camber readings with each respective 90* rotation? If they did, what was the deviation in camber for each given position?

Eventually I plan to do the following and will report my findings regardless of the results (assuredly returning with enough concrete data to further prove my point), but nothing more should be necessary to reach reasonable camber/toe figures for each and every corner of the vehicle:
  • Adjust rear camber properly using factory cam bolts
  • Install aftermarket rear toe arms and properly adjust toe
  • Install various combination of Toyota crash bolts to increase front camber as much as reasonably possible
  • Adjust front toe properly using factory tie rods

Ultimately I find it ironic that you don't trust Toyota when it comes to their stance on rear camber and/or lack of adjustability, you don't trust Toyota when it comes to their selected method of adjusting rear toe, but you wholeheartedly will take their word as gospel when they try to patronize you by stating that adjusting a cam bolt that is on the same exact axis as the rear hub is only meant for adjusting toe lol it's the equivalent of taking everything you learned (or didn't learn) in high school trigonometry and throwing it right out the window.
 

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The service manual says this bolt is for adjusting toe, this was confirmed by the dealer and Tires Plus who where kind enough to demonstrate this to us. We did notice that this bolt has a small effect on camber; unfortunately, when adjusting rear toe enough to meet specs, the camber only got worse. See below from the manual:
Product Automotive tire Font Gas Automotive design

Rotate the rear suspension toe adjust cam sub-assembly to adjust the toe-in.

The manual also says that the only way to fix camber is to replace parts. Toyota replaced the springs under warranty, but that wasn't the problem (ride height was fine) then said they spent enough on us (literally, that's what the service manager said).
No , that is Toe, not Camber. If you get in under tha car an look at how the wheel is attached. Its like a triangle. One mount on top and 2x on the bottom. The bolts you pointed out adjust one of the bottom connection points. That must mean toe. If it was camber, it would be adjusted on the top point.
Adjusting these bolts will turn your wheel left to right, aka toe.
Yes , it does affect camber, but its a secondary effect.
More toe toe the inside will give even more negative camber.
I think thats why excessive toe inn did not help me , because the camber that was already out of spec, was even further out.

Just dont understand why Toyota wont give us a factory camber adjustment.
 

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If you get in under the car an look at how the wheel is attached. Its like a triangle. One mount on top and 2x on the bottom.
If that's the case, it would be more like a pyramid (tetrahedron). Changing the length of one of the bottom chords, which I assume that adjustment screw will do, should change both the toe and camber. And likely one more than the other.
 

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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
You keep mentioning this in multiple threads, but myself and others have pointed out that from a physical/algorithmic/mechanical perspective that just isn't entirely accurate.

Humor me for a second; when Tires Plus 'demonstrated' this for you, what exactly did they do? Did they articulate both rear lower control arm cam bolts in a complete circle and note the camber readings with each respective 90* rotation? If they did, what was the deviation in camber for each given position?

Eventually I plan to do the following and will report my findings regardless of the results (assuredly returning with enough concrete data to further prove my point), but nothing more should be necessary to reach reasonable camber/toe figures for each and every corner of the vehicle:
  • Adjust rear camber properly using factory cam bolts
  • Install aftermarket rear toe arms and properly adjust toe
  • Install various combination of Toyota crash bolts to increase front camber as much as reasonably possible
  • Adjust front toe properly using factory tie rods

Ultimately I find it ironic that you don't trust Toyota when it comes to their stance on rear camber and/or lack of adjustability, you don't trust Toyota when it comes to their selected method of adjusting rear toe, but you wholeheartedly will take their word as gospel when they try to patronize you by stating that adjusting a cam bolt that is on the same exact axis as the rear hub is only meant for adjusting toe lol it's the equivalent of taking everything you learned (or didn't learn) in high school trigonometry and throwing it right out the window.
We never had an issue adjusting rear toe, that was easy for the shops to adjust. As far as rear camber not being adjustable goes, this is what the manual says, along with what the two dealers and an independent alignment shop demonstrated to us. Maybe the Toyota service manual, dealers, and Tires Plus are all wrong. Anything is possible. The dealer actually spent thousands of dollars replacing parts in an attempt to adjust the rear camber without success. I suspect that if they could have adjusted it by turning the cam we pointed out to them they would have but again, anything is possible.

I don't see any reason to be disrespectful to me personally or understand what that could accomplish. My post wasn't about you. Just sharing what the service manual says and what we were told as it relates to your post in an attempt to collaborate on this issue for our benefit. As stated before, we questioned the dealers and shop about the cam in question, and shared what we learned. I didn't write the service manual and have never personally attempted to adjust rear camber. If you have an issue with Toyota's service manual, the dealers or shop we consulted then I suggest you take that up with Toyota or visit your local Tires Plus and discuss it with them.

We keep seeing posts about how the cam Toyota says is for adjusting toe is actually for adjusting camber yet have not found a shop that can or any evidence of someone actually using it to adjust their camber to spec.

Am very grateful to benriefourie for his adjustable tow arm solution. We might actually do the same; however, I do sincerely hope that you can in fact demonstrate a proven way to adjust rear camber without aftermarket parts. That will help a lot of people including myself.
 

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No disrespect was meant; I just can't understand the mindset here. At some point you just got to get your hands dirty and figure it out for yourself unfortunately. In the past, I was tired of going to 10 different dealerships, independent mechanics, race shops, etc. and getting 10 different answers to very specific/straightforward alignment related questions. Not only has that led to mediocre results, but having to cough up $100+ each visit also added insult to injury. That's what ultimately led me to learn how all of these interfacing parts/pieces come together so that I could DIY alignments instead; not only has this resulted in precise/repeatable results each and every time, but saves $$$$ over the lifetime of the vehicle.

Ultimately though, 99.9% of all multilink vehicles have the same setup and method of adjusting rear camber. It's been that way since the early '80s:
Prius: Camber adjustment
Lexus: Rear Camber Adjustment. - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion
Nissan: https://forums.nicoclub.com/negative-camber-on-rear-tire-wear-t617275.html#p6758762
Mitsu: How is rear camber adjusted?
BMW: Easy-ish DIY Alignments

The only way that Toyota is different from ALL above examples is that they chose to not add direct toe adjustment to current gen RAV4s given the frozen and 'epoxy' arm, etc. issues plagued by previous gen RAVs. Although, I did find a recent example where apparently Alpha Romeo has also taken the Toyota approach of no indepent toe adjustments on the Giulia, which again, is just another terrible manufacturer design decision...they refer to the adjustment of the camber cam bolt as 'half-toe' though which, to their credit, is at least a slightly more truthful route than Toyota decided to take:

Overall though, we can all come to an agreement that, no matter how you end up going about it, this is still an issue that can easily be remedied; the only question now is, which method do YOU choose to go about fixing it: adding multiple aftermarket arms, getting what you can out of factory pieces camber wise and going with toe arms only instead, etc.

The 'best' solution is to swap in completely adjustable aftermarket camber and toe arms in the rear and create a lock out kit for the current eccentric camber/toe bolts to get rid of any potential slip/slop on factory pieces, but that combo is crazy overkill for a non-track car and would cost over $1K. I'm all about best-bang-for-the-buck though, so once I have more concrete data from my own adjustments, I'll be glad to share.
 

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Man, I just happened to notice that the inside of all four of my tires are worn almost bare. I have just over 40k miles on them. From the outside I couldn't see it, they look decent about right for the mileage. I just happened to be walking up behind my RAV4 and looked down at the tires and noticed. I've never had any indication that alignment is off and my last check at the dealership (35K) said my tires were good and I got them rotated.

What's the best way to handle this when I go in next week to get things checked at the dealer? I've never had tires so badly bald, especially so uniform on all four tires (on the inside, nonetheless). They are the stock Dunlop Grandtrek PT20's FWIW.
 

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Man, I just happened to notice that the inside of all four of my tires are worn almost bare. I have just over 40k miles on them. From the outside I couldn't see it, they look decent about right for the mileage. I just happened to be walking up behind my RAV4 and looked down at the tires and noticed. I've never had any indication that alignment is off and my last check at the dealership (35K) said my tires were good and I got them rotated.

What's the best way to handle this when I go in next week to get things checked at the dealer? I've never had tires so badly bald, especially so uniform on all four tires (on the inside, nonetheless). They are the stock Dunlop Grandtrek PT20's FWIW.
This happened on my ‘13 CX-5. At 28k miles, the inside of the tire was worn so badly that they needed to be replaced prior to the rest of the tread being gone. Those were the stock Yokohama tires. They were loud and sucked.

I replaced those with Goodyear Assurance ComforTred tires and those wore evenly over 60k miles. No excessive inner tire wear. I replaced the shocks and struts with around 80k miles on the car due to a busted shock, and I got an alignment. I replaced the Goodyear tires with Michelin CrossClimate 2 tires. Those are wearing evenly with 20k miles on them.

For you? You can get the alignment checked if you like but it doesn’t have to be at the dealership. I’d recommend replacing your stock worn out tires with a quality tire and move on. 40k miles on the junk stock tire isn’t bad. I’d be willing to bet a new set of quality tires won’t wear like that.

Check out tire rack. Your stock tires are one of the lowest rated tires that they track: https://m.tirerack.com/survey/SurveyComments.jsp?tireMake=Dunlop&tireModel=Grandtrek+PT20
 

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Hello,

I'm from Slovakia and I have the same problem with rear wheels. I bought my car in June 2021. It has 23000km on the clock now and is still under 2 years factory warranty. I also bought extended waranty for additionlal 3 years. I had issue with straight driving. My car was pulling to the left slightly. At my verry first car maintenance (13700km) I mentioned that and they checked wheel allignments. With the result that they have to made some adjustment but after that everything is fine. But I haven't noticed that one value on rear left was out of the allowed range (different protocol without any highlighting). As my car was still pulling to the left, not as much as before, but still, I decided to made another wheel alignments check and I went to another dealer.
Today I visited 2nd Toytoa dealer to check wheel allignments and results are terrible. Even worse then the first time. They fixed pulling to left and now it look OK, but the rest can't by corrected. I'm looking for solution how to fix this as Toyota seems to refuse to fix it under warranty. It looks like there are 2 options, change upper arm for adjustable one (I found that Hardrace also have one for RAV4 2021) or another option is to use adjustable toe arm also from Hardrace. Does anybody have an experience with any of this? Is it a really solution for this issue? Or what should I do to get the rear wheels properly alligned? I will be glad for any tip, thanks.

Here are my results, but measurement is made in degress and minutes, not in decimal degrees!
Rectangle Font Parallel Plan Schematic
 
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