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We own a 2006 Rav4 with a V6. It does have the tow package with it. Long story short I sold my truck to fund a house build and need to use the Rav4 for my waterfowl hunting/utility vehicle will I buy a new truck early next year. I had taken the hitch off a couple years ago and somewhere in the move I lost the bolts that go into the weld nuts in the frame. I tried M12 1.25x35mm and they are too large. 10mm is to small. I didn't figure it would be SAE but I figured what the heck. 7/16 will start to thread but I didn't want to cross thread them. Anybody have any idea what goes in there? Would really be nice to tow my 5x8 trailer with the ATV on it.
 

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Are the welded frame nuts rusted internally? It may be necessary to use something like penetrating oil to help dissolve the rust and serve as a lubricant.
 

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Flood the weld-nut holes with BP Blast or equivalent the day before, then again an hour before, then just before using a use a chasing tap (if you can) rather than a new-thread tap to clean up the threads.

And next time, put the bolts back in place with anti-seize. :)
.
 

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Shot the holes full of CLP and waited 30 minutes. The rear 2 bolts are in as they should be. The front two are in 3/4 and have stopped. Tryin to decided if I should risk backing them out to spray more stuff in. Got pissed off and it was getting late so I stopped for the night.
 

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Shot the holes full of CLP and waited 30 minutes. The rear 2 bolts are in as they should be. The front two are in 3/4 and have stopped. Tryin to decided if I should risk backing them out to spray more stuff in. Got pissed off and it was getting late so I stopped for the night.
Reaching back to the painful memory of the install . . . . . Yeah that sounded about right, 3/4 way in and stuck. Backed them out then tighten for one more turn, back out & repeat . . . . I did initially sprayed the welded nuts with penetrating oil but it created a slurry with the paint/rust already in the thread, thus jamming the bolt progress. You may want to douse the area after backing out the stuck bolt to flush out the crud. I have a heck of a time trying to tightening the front two bolts completely. I used a long breaker bar attached to the socket for additional torque. I was sweating a bit over fear of shearing the bolts, but they survived.

BTW, the M12X1.25 tap is fairly expensive to purchase by itself. That's the reason I used the frame bolt as the chasing tap. It's a very lousy chasing tap as it gets stuck more often than advancing. Doing it over again, I would buy the chasing tap. It would have cut my install time by up to half. YMMV.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Got it done. Went to my folks house where I had access to a large variety of tools I don't have currently. 1/2 drive ratchet with the proper metric head as well as an impact wrench and I got it installed. Huge difference compared to my 3/8 ratchet. There is anti seize on them in case I ever want them to come off for some reason. Now I have to wire the lights in which I am not looking forward too. Dad was a machinist for 26 years and has lots of tools I don't, but he didn't have the right tap.
 

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For future reference, a battery terminal brush as pictured below can be used to clean up those rusty threads. Spray some penetrating oil onto the threads and rotate the little wire brush in the hole to clean the rust out.

 

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To add to JuneBug's excellent suggestion, you could use a Dremel tool with a small wire brush attachment. That's the 'quicker' method I used, but wear goggles!
 

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This reminds me to re-torque the bolts in mine. Does anyone remember the proper torque?
 
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