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Nice Ty, it doesn't appear to hang down a lot.....close to bumper?
If you are talking about the end of the hitch and the edge of the bumper, I don't think so. It is sunk in a bit (maybe an inch?) so you couldn't hold a level on the end of the hitch and not hit the bumper, but I don't know of any hitch mount that would go vertical right at the mount point like that.

As you can see from the bike rack, plenty of room in there. The hitch was very solid. I haven't tried jacking the rear of the car up yet, but I don't see that I would have any problems doing it.
 

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Installed my Curt hitch last night. I think it took me 40 minutes with no helper (except a floor jack) and a combo wrench. I'll tq the bolts properly later. I got 'em "tight but not broken" so they're good for now.

I installed our cargo tray just to see how it fit/looked but haven't really driven anywhere. I think we'll try to find a bike rack either really soon or try to get a good deal over the winter for next spring.

I'm happy that this was so cheap, I was able to DIY, and I think it'll add a lot of utility to our utility vehicle!
 

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Curt hitch

I installed the Curt hitch yesterday, and it really is as easy as the posts here suggest - maybe 35 min by myself and a nice, clean fit!
 

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Just installed a Curt class III hitch on 2014 Rav4 - by myself in 15 min (and I am 72)- not counting the time searching for soap, tools, clothes, unboxing hitch, etc.

Model 13149 (2013 & 2014) $131.30 on Amazon - ordered 9/8 rcvd 9/10 from hitchdepot

Get these tools:
1/2" drive ratchet w/ 17mm socket for tie down bolts and 19mm socket for hitch bolts
12mm box wrench - to loosen extra hanger rod bolts
12mm 1/4 drive socket and ratchet to finish removing above bolts - tight space
a few drops of liquid soap or foaming kind
piece of cardboard to protect you and hitch from cement driveway
NOTE: beer not included

Ready/Set/Go
1. change clothes & position cardboard - 5min
2. removed tie down from left side - ratchet w/ 17mm socket - 1min
3. move muffler hanger away from end then spray a little foam soap on the end of the rod pin and it slipped right off - no tool - 30sec
4. removed extra hanger piece from muffler bracket - 12mm closed end then ratchet socket - 1 min
5. positioned and lifted hitch on muffler side so as to start both bolts - I laid the opposite end on my leg to get it more level. 3min
6. lifted other side and start & hand tightened those bolts - 2min
7. hand tightened muffler side- 1min
8. wrench tightened both sides ratchet & 19mm socket - 1min
9. put hanger back on muffler rod - 30sec
DONE.
 

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Thanks for the info...had an issue with Uhaul and went to a mechanic to get my Curt Class III hitch installed. I ordered one, the holes didn't line up, and then ordered another...same problem...they drilled the holes out a little...so much for just 4 bolts.
 

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Maybe it's my Rav...either way, i ordered two separate 13149 curt hitches and had problems with both. The second one was installed by pros so it takes out the inexperienced element. It's in now and looks good though.
 

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I bought it new, so nothing before me. The front door was hit in a parking lot, but there wasn't much damage other than the door itself (the glass didn't even break). If that little bit twisted the frame it's sad news for the rav...
 

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I'm new to this forum and have my '14 Rav4 for just over 2 weeks now. Last week I installed the Curt hitch (wanted to get it done before the mtg. holes got too dirty and rusty).
The install went very well, took about 45 minutes including jacking the car up enough to shimmy under it. Managed to do it myself by just catching the threads of the bolts on the muffler side then lifting the other side in place. The holes lined up perfectly, and I didn't reverse the rod, as there seems to be enough clearance between it and the bracket. The muffler hanging bracket came off easily with a little WD-40, although it seemed that it would move enough without that step to mount the bolts above it.
The Etrailer site has a video of the actual install on a '13 Rav, which was very useful.
 

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Has anyone installed the OEM trailer wiring harness P/N PU322-42013-UW on their RAV4. If so does this wiring harness require a wire being run to the battery for power?
 

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Has anyone installed the OEM trailer wiring harness P/N PU322-42013-UW on their RAV4. If so does this wiring harness require a wire being run to the battery for power?
I have not but I think the official instructions have you routing the wire up to the front. I wonder if you could tap into the brake light for power...
 

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I think it has to connect directly to the battery post. I bought the hitch and harness but haven't had time to do the install. Hitch should be easy but the harness is going to be a bitch.

Easiest ever install was on a 2007 Outback.
 

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Maybe it's my Rav...either way, i ordered two separate 13149 curt hitches and had problems with both. The second one was installed by pros so it takes out the inexperienced element. It's in now and looks good though.


Interesting, JC Whitney says the Curt 13149 is not recommended for my 2014 Rav4 LE
 
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