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Discussion Starter #1
Please tell me towing is possible with the 4. Thanks!

Tom
 
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Jeez, that doesnt sound like much. I wonder how much a small, box type trailer weighs?
 
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purduealum91 said:
Jeez, that doesnt sound like much. I wonder how much a small, box type trailer weighs?
What were you expecting? The V6 model is rated at 3500 lbs w. the proper twoing package.
 
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Well, I did some research at UHaul.com. The trailer I would be towing, weighs 780 lb empty. I would be loading it witha stove (max 200# Im guessing). It should be ok.

Can anyone recommen Class 1 trailer hitches? Does it make sense to install a Class 2 even though the max towing capacity is 1,500#? Thanks!
 

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I'll be getting a Drawtite 75432. It's actually a Class III, but it should be just under $200 including the ballmount, ball and light kit. Being a receiver hitch, it's mostly hidden until you actually use it. It bolts on with 4 bolts and no drilling. I'll be using it mostly for trips to the dump and such.
 
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pweezil, do you have the 4cyl version of the Rav?

Who has the best prices online for hitches? Thanks!
 

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purduealum91 said:
Well, I did some research at UHaul.com. The trailer I would be towing, weighs 780 lb empty. I would be loading it witha stove (max 200# Im guessing). It should be ok.

Can anyone recommen Class 1 trailer hitches? Does it make sense to install a Class 2 even though the max towing capacity is 1,500#? Thanks!
Depends on what you need to tow and how many different things you want to hang off of it. Trailer, large wheeled equipment (log splitter, concrete mixer, etc), bike/ski/storage racks, it's all up to you.

A Class I shadow mount is just a flat metal bar (usually with a hole for a ball-hitch) and is less obtrusive visually, but of course, has the lowest tow rating.

A Class II 1-1/4" box is more versatile than the shadow mount for add ons, but a Class II/III 2" box will be the most common to find accessories for.

Draw-Tite, Hidden Hitch and Reese are all owned by the same parent company, though they may have slightly different designs, prices and finish quality.

Shop around -- when I checked last month, you could easily get a Class II/III 2" box for about $150 to $200 shipped.

http://rav4world.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2275
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Pweezil,

Wht a class 3 then? Sorry, Im new to hitches.
 

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Well, I'm no expert by any means. I like the drawtite because it's a name I recognize and the hitch allows you to remove the ball easily when it's not in use. As karrock mentioned, it's easy to find accessories for should the need arise. And lastly, the price fits my budget. So even though it's probably overkill, I think it will work out just fine.
 
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Compare OEM Hitch to Aftermarket

Is there any reason to believe that the fit of the aftermarket Hitches is any different. ? For example, the Toyota hitch (in pictures) seems to be very unobtrusive, while the Reese, Curt, other models seem to have more of the tubular framework showing? Anyone care to share some pictures or at least real world experience?

-John

:?:
 

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I'd go for the class III hitch solely based on the larger number of available accessories for that size of draw bar.
 

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Re: Compare OEM Hitch to Aftermarket

jyounghans said:
Is there any reason to believe that the fit of the aftermarket Hitches is any different. ? For example, the Toyota hitch (in pictures) seems to be very unobtrusive, while the Reese, Curt, other models seem to have more of the tubular framework showing? Anyone care to share some pictures or at least real world experience?

-John

:?:
Of the three aftermarket hitches currently available (Draw-Tite, Hidden Hitch, Reese) -- based on their provided photos and illustrations (if they're correct) -- the Draw-Tite looks the "most" like an OEM application, with only the center portion of the wide crossbar sloping out to protrude beneath the bumper.

I'd take all the evidence with a grain of salt until I see actual photos, however, because I don't see why Cequent would sell three differently-engineered hitches for the same vehicle. They all claim to be "round tube" and have identical ratings, so I suspect that they all look identical as well... But I could be wrong! :p
 
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Discussion Starter #15
I would stick with a class 1 (2,000 lb max wt). A class 1 is more than sufficent and weighs considerable less than a class 3 in most cases.
 
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