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Are there any links or copies of the installation guide for the Factory Hitch? I just had one delivered, and I'd like to make sure I do the install properly. The original links in this thread don't appear to work any longer.
Sadly, it seems John Davies' awesome OEM hitch guide page no longer exists.

Happily, I saved a copy of it, with pictures and PDFs that had been linked.

This is a reproduction of John Davies' original web page (sorry photo 7 is so small, by accident I never downloaded the original, just the thumbnail). Most of the pics are linked, rather than inline, as that would make this one message brutally long. Suggest right-clicking on them and opening them in new windows for easier reference.

I hope this is helpful.


RAV4 - Toyota OEM 3500 Pound/ 2 inch Receiver Hitch

It appears that many owners are receiving boxes with no instructions, and it is sometimes difficult to find the instructions online, so here are the Toyota installation documents in pdf format:

RAV4 Receiver Install - TOW PACKAGE <attachment #1>

RAV4 Receiver Install - NO TOW PACKAGE <attachment #2>

Rav4 Receiver Torque Specs Revision <attachment #3>

Here's what you get in the box from the Mother Ship. My box was really battered and poorly packed.

All the receiver parts laid out for inspection. When you get your receiver, inventory the parts before starting the installation! MOST IMPORTANT !!!: Get out your tape measure NOW, and measure across the two main attach areas (top and bottom of this pic). Measure hole to hole - the figures should be very close at the front and back of the receiver (the brackets should be parallel) - if they are not, your receiver is WARPED (like mine was) and you will most likely have difficulties getting it to install correctly. Note that the brackets look badly misaligned in the pic, but that is due to the short focal length lens. By eye, they looked fine.

See this pic: Picture 10

Now is the time to think about calling the seller for an exchange, not later when you are an hour into the job and have dirt and sweat in your eyes! If the brackets are 0.5 inch or less out of true, you probably will be able to coax all the bolts in. If they are misaligned more than that, watch out! Warpage is a common problem during welding, but proper quality control "should" catch these problems before they get shipped!

The Toyota factory receiver is a fine piece of hardware, but it's expensive and time consuming to install. I think it's worth the money and labor. After you look at the pictures you will understand better.

MSRP is $479 - I paid $383 plus $39 shipping through a secret source associated with a Land Cruiser forum.

Picture 1

That's a load of parts - the receiver is loosely assembled with all it's brackets and reinforcements, and it's surrounded by the Tekonsha P3 brake controller I won at a motorcycle ride last month, the Toyota factory trailer lighting wire harness, additional brake and battery charge wires, plastic split loom, fuse block, circuit breakers, ball mount and a 2 inch ball.

A close-up of the right brackets. The heavy side bracket braces the main receiver and connects to the rear bumper beam via the rear two holes. The odd shaped piece flies over the top of the muffler and connects to the floor structure under the jack mount. The square reinforcement plate is hanging off that bracket.

Picture 2

A close-up of the left brackets. A heavy reinforcement L- angle bolts to the left side of the floor channel. Another side brace bolts to that and also the main receiver, and then to the rear bumper beam. A smaller side brace angles up to the floor structure via a second square plate.

Picture 3

The entire assembly lying behind the trucklet. All the loose bits have to be removed before starting the installation..

Picture 4

In this pic at the top is the left bumper bracket, both of which came pre-installed on my '07 Ltd with tow prep package. The instructions I used indicated that it would have to be installed, which would require removal of the rear bumper plastic cover. Luckily I didn't have to remove the bumper. At the bottom is the rear tie down point which is removed and discarded - the receiver has an opening for this purpose. The main fore and aft attach points of the receiver mount on the channel where the tie down was attached.

Picture 5

The right main channel, showing the threaded holes that are the main attach points. To the right of the muffler hanger are 4 rubber plugs which must be removed - the floor plate will go on top of that area and the hitch will tie into it.

Picture 6

Looking at the same plugs on the left side (in the center of the pic). Directly above those plugs is a large blank grommet, which is where the trailer lighting wires will go through later.

Picture 7

The right area is hard to access - it's buried under the jack mount as shown by the arrows. It is possible to install the plate by working through the access panel and without removing the right plastic trim or the jack mount.

Picture 8

The instructions suggest two people to lift up the main receiver - I used the Mechanic's Pal - a couple of jack stands padded with shop rags. Close at hand are gloves, four 12 mm bolts, pre-tested to make sure they thread into their holes easily, and a ratchet and 17 mm socket. Also shown is the OEM tie down (cleaned up for the pic) and it's two 12 mm bolts, which are not re-used.

Picture 9

Getting the receiver into position was easy, and I started the center of the three left bolts and moved to the right side. Uh Oh!!!!! Only the rear hole lined up - the center was off by more than half a hole and the front hole was completely covered. It appeared that the receiver was tweaked and out of alignment. At this point I had two choices - remove it and try to straighten it with a sledgehammer, or try to pull it into alignment with the side brackets. I chose Door Number 2. If it didn't work, I could leave the side brackets loosely installed and drop the main receiver out from between them.

Picture 10

The left side angle is installed and the bolts loosely tightened. All bolts at this point are run in until they contact and start to torque, then backed out about half a turn. This will let the parts shift for alignment.

Picture 11

The left side plate with tie down hole is attached. Fortunately there is just enough room to install the rear bumper bolts using a box end wrench.

Picture 12

The right side plate went on next, and as I torqued it down I could see the main attach point pull into correct position. Yeehaw! I installed the two remaining 12 mm bolts on that side of the receiver and loosened the right side plate bolts to let things shift around.

Picture 13

The left floor plate is slid into place after removing some rubber sealant to let it lie flat. Here are the outer two attach bolts loosely holding it in place from below. Next the left side brace is installed between the two empty holes and the main brackets.

Picture 14

The right side brace installed to the right floor. I worked around the muffler and did not need to remove the rubbers.

Picture 15

Once all the parts are in place and all 20 bolts are loosely installed, it was time to torque everything down in the pattern shown in the installation instructions:

12 mm bolts: 60 ft pounds

10 mm bolts: 37 foot pounds

8 mm bolts (at the bumper brackets): real tight (2 grunts) with a box end wrench.

The completed hitch with a standard ball mount (mounted as a 3/4 inch rise) and 2 inch ball.

Picture 16

The hitch with the supplied Toyota hitch cover

Picture 17

Side view showing reduced departure angle. Since I don't off-road this trucklet I don't worry about it. It's a hell-for-strong rear recovery point though.

Picture 18

Ground clearance unladen is 9.5 inches. My trucklet sits a little higher than stock due to the oversized Cooper Discoverer ATR tires, so subtract about 1/4 inch for a stock vehicle.

Picture 19

Close-up of the departure angle - the exhaust tip is nicely protected from damage by the hitch.

Picture 20



1,660 Posts
I should add, the photos and PDFs in my previous post are now hosted on R4W itself, so they should hopefully never get lost again.


112 Posts
I finally got around to installing my hitch. I managed to do it by myself in spite of my lack of physical strength. I mounted the side brackets loosely to the hitch, pulled one side up at a time (starting with passenger side - a must) and loosely attached to the bumper bracket. Then I was able to easily put the 3 bolts on each side up into the frame. From there is was a piece of cake. One thing I did before I started anything was to chase all threads with a tap and die. There was one hole in the frame on each side that had not been covered up by a protective covering that needed it badly. And all the parts in the kit had been painted making them difficult to assemble. Chasing the threads made assembly extremely easy and all bolts easily started and screwed all the way in easily by finger. Chasing the threads also ensures accurate torque readings.

And thankfully the hitch was not warped so all the holes matched up perfectly.

83 Posts
The pictures are lost again... Can someone post the pics of the tow vs non tow package rav4?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

2 Posts
I used the Drawtite 76134 hidden hitch in my 2010 Rav4 and it worked fine. Search for my name and read what I wrote about it in my other discussions.

445 Posts
When towing the tongue weight has to be 1/10 (9-11%) of the total trailer weight, for stability reasons.

For keeping the rear level, while towing, a weight distribution hitch is the best option.
Some say it's the only valid option, it allows loading the front wheels back to the normal weight, improving braking and steering (compared with towing without weight distribution). While a weight distribution system can't increase the total amount of weight a tow vehicle can haul beyond its maximum capacity, it can improve handling by distributing some of the weight off the tongue and onto the other axles -- thereby safely getting you closer to that maximum mark.
Don't forget the tow vehicle's axles each have a gross axle weight rating -- adjusting the weight distribution system can help distribute the weight appropriately. Adding stiffer springs or airbags doesn't raise the rated rear axle capacity.
Braking with a trailer that doesn't have it's own brakes/brake controller means that the tongue load will increase proportional with the braking force. That means the rear brakes will be loaded more and the front brakes get "unloaded", diminishing the braking capacity and the steering control.

My V6 with TO is marked, on the door pillar, with a rear axle GAWR of 1145 kg (2535 lbs). Same for the front axle.
I have extracted the towing recommendations from the manual and place them in one picture, just for reference.

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