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Bummer about your buddy’s situation, Ike.
guess it’s going aroun.
it didn’t used to be this tough to buy a good, dependable used car.. I’m not even sure what to look for anymore.
You always knew the ‘stealership’ was gonna hose you going in, but at least you count on a solid rig in return and their mechanics knew how to work on their products.
Seems like the lawyers and PR guys run the show now.

So an update to our tranny saga:
Talked to the mechanic today and there’s more bad news. They got the new trans installed, but it’s shifting hard between 3rd and 4th and taking too long between others.
Very obvious that something is still wrong. We replaced the ECU with a brand new one w programmed to our VIN with the updated firmware. Apparently he switched back to the first ECU and it was the same deal.
He‘s looking into the possibility that the tranny shop screwed up?
I read there’s a separate computer that runs the power train (PCU) and that it can store codes on it and send them to the main ECU and confuse everything until you reset it?

We’re running out of ideas and things to replace.
Anybody got any idea what is happening here?
 

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It's hard to find anyone who really actually knows what they are doing anymore and who does a good job.
I am going to assume they messed up on the tranny. Codes won't usually mess with shifting like that.
It could be sealant in passages, broken o-rings, dirt in the works, or a host of other problems. I know a LOT of people who work on stuff and I don't know of any who are super careful about their work. I have seen mechanics slap a head gasket on a block with greasy/dirty fingers. I'll come unglued over that one.
Get your money back on the rebuild job and take it elsewhere. The wrong transmission getting rebuilt would be a red flag, but the second one being a bummer would set off alarms. Are you sure it was rebuilt and not out of a scrap yard?
 

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It's hard to find anyone who really actually knows what they are doing anymore and who does a good job.
I am going to assume they messed up on the tranny. Codes won't usually mess with shifting like that.
It could be sealant in passages, broken o-rings, dirt in the works, or a host of other problems. I know a LOT of people who work on stuff and I don't know of any who are super careful about their work. I have seen mechanics slap a head gasket on a block with greasy/dirty fingers. I'll come unglued over that one.
Get your money back on the rebuild job and take it elsewhere. The wrong transmission getting rebuilt would be a red flag, but the second one being a bummer would set off alarms. Are you sure it was rebuilt and not out of a scrap yard?
All good points, Ike.
Our mechanic buddy who‘s doing the work said he had used them in the past and they had done solid pro level work. It’s possible something may have changed. I looked up everything I could find online about them. Their FB page only had 2 comments/reviews - both terrible. They claim to have the best warranty in the biz. 5 yrs or 100K mi. but no labor after the first year, and only paying $50/hr during that year if it needs to be replaced, and it must be an accredited legit shop. Know any mechanics that have a shop rate that qualifies?
Maybe if we take it to Mexico?
Scratch that. only applies in the lower 48 states, so...

On their website they claim they Dyno test all their remanufactured units, and show videos of the build process although I wonder how something as obvious as wonky shift points slipped by their notice?

Even stranger, when he alerted them to the problem, they asked if he drove it yet?
He said of course he did. He drove it for 10 miles or so. That’s how he saw it was shifting funny.
They said they couldn’t do anything until it had first been driven 200miles.
Huh?!?
Mind you, they never saw the car or the odometer, so how the hell would they even know?
There isn’t a word about this 200 mile requirement anywhere on their warranty or website.
Not exactly a confidence booster.
Not even sure what they hope to accomplish with making such a demand other than kicking the can down the road, but even if it suddenly “fixes itself” for 200 miles, we’re still going to have a problem.
Our mechanic is a longtime friend and has done us right for over 15 years. He has lawyers on retainer ready to handle this if need be and has said he will make it right.
He said he would normally never even entertain the idea of releasing a car in less than perfect condition, but after nearly 2 months of being careless, my gf was sick of not being able to drive herself to work, etc so he said go ahead and take it for now and drive it 200 miles.
Despite feeling a little mushy, it seems to drive ok. Nothing dangerous, and she’s only driving short trips in town on safe roads, and I’m on call no more than 15 mins away when she does.
Sorry for all the details, but here’s where I’m at on this:
As I continue to research possible solutions, I keep coming back to the PCM/TCM
(The black computer control module attached to the side of the tranny)
We replaced the ECM with a new one flashed to her VIN # w the updated software, but I’m not yet up to speed on what this Powertrain Control Module does specifically.
Do any of you know how the PCM relates to the ECM?
Whatever needed to be done to this box (if anything)- Shouldn't this have been handled by the guys rebuilding it? probably when they were Dynotesting it?
How do you know the ECM and PCM are doing their separate jobs and talking to each other properly?
This has been a bit of a blind spot for me, but id like to know how these relate, sync up and communicate and how to know they are working together properly.
Maybe one of you know or can point me somewhere to learn about this?
Thanks again to everyone for sharing your thoughts and info
 
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